M35A2 Parking Brake

[rtadams89]

The parking brake on my new Deuce seems to be barely functional. It keeps it from rolling when parked on just past flat ground, but anything beyond that and it will take off. So:

1. I ran out of light today to check (not literally, I have a flashlight with the Deuce), but assuming the pads are still good and I just need to adjust the cable, can I do so without removing the propeller shafts and such? The TM has the cable adjustment as part of parking brakeshoe maintenance section which has a prerequisite for the propeller shafts to be removed, but that seems to only be necessary for the other steps.
2. If the lining is mostly gone, the TM specifies to replace the whole brakeshoe. Is there any harm to re-lining the existing shoe? I see a number of threads here where people have done just that, but the comment that goes along is always along the lines of "I don't want to spend the money on new brakeshoes yet, so for now I'm just relining." Is there any performance/safety reason to NOT save the money and just reline?
3. I'm sure this one will fire a few people up: while the parking brake is in this weak state, I've considered parking the deuce in gear (with the engine stop pulled out and the wheels chocked). I see the TM and numerous threads here talk about not doing so to avoid something bumping the deuce and having a run away. I'm trying to wrap my head around how that would happen. Would a run away only be possible with the engine stop pushed in, or is there some way for these things to get going with the engine stop pulled out? Never really found an answer to this; just horror stories of the things taking off in a light breeze.

 

[gimpyrobb]

No need to pull the DS.
Yes you can have them re-lined
I wouldn't park mine in gear. Once you make sure your chocks are good, bump it out of gear.

Its probably not going to take off if the fuel shutoff rod is out, but why chance it.

 

[texas30cal]

I re-lined mine a few weeks back, I got my parts from Eriks. If you do re-line them you will have to find or make some tools to set the rivets (order a few extra rivets), also be very careful the linings are quite brittle. Try to insert all the rivets to make sure the holes line up , mine were close but not perfect so I ran a drill thru them to make the rivets slide in easily.

 

[country]

We stock lining kits and relined E brake shoe sets- see below

Dave
www.easternsurplus.net

M35-204 | Parking Brake Shoe Lining Kit w/ Rivets
Parking Brake shoe lining kit- Fits M35, M54 & M809 Series Trucks
NSN #: 2530-01-281-5224, 2530-00-391-1209
Part #: 12356756
Price: $29.00





M35-355 | Inner Brake shoe Lining
Inner Parking Brake Shoe Lining for M35 Series 2 1/2 ton trucks
NSN #: 2530-00-736-8682, 2530-00-904-2581, 2530-00-289-7206, 2530-00-537-0647
Part #: 7368682
Price: $9.00



COM-5160 | Outer Parking Brake Shoe with Lining
Outer Parking Brake Shoe with Lining Fits M35 Series, M54 Series and M809 Series Trucks
NSN #: 2530-00-693-0680, 2530-00-752-1280, 2530-00-330-2525
Part #: 8380559
Price: $85.00


COM-5159 | M35 Series, M54 Series and M809 Series Inner Emergency Brake Shoe with Lining
M35 Series, M54 Series and M809 Series Inner Emergency Brake Shoe with Lining
NSN #: 2530-00-693-0679, 2530-00-535-1705, 2530-00-752-1287, 2530-00-312-0763, 2530-00-696-1827
Part #: 8380558
Price: $54.00

COM-3092 | Parking Brake Shoe Set
Parking brake shoe set- Fits M35, M35A1, M35A2, M35A3, M109, M809 Series Truck
NSN #: 2530-01-281-5221
Part #: 12356757
Price: $150.00

 

[Eliteweapons]

The parking brake on my new Deuce seems to be barely functional. It keeps it from rolling when parked on just past flat ground, but anything beyond that and it will take off. So:

1. I ran out of light today to check (not literally, I have a flashlight with the Deuce), but assuming the pads are still good and I just need to adjust the cable, can I do so without removing the propeller shafts and such? The TM has the cable adjustment as part of parking brakeshoe maintenance section which has a prerequisite for the propeller shafts to be removed, but that seems to only be necessary for the other steps.
2. If the lining is mostly gone, the TM specifies to replace the whole brakeshoe. Is there any harm to re-lining the existing shoe? I see a number of threads here where people have done just that, but the comment that goes along is always along the lines of "I don't want to spend the money on new brakeshoes yet, so for now I'm just relining." Is there any performance/safety reason to NOT save the money and just reline?
3. I'm sure this one will fire a few people up: while the parking brake is in this weak state, I've considered parking the deuce in gear (with the engine stop pulled out and the wheels chocked). I see the TM and numerous threads here talk about not doing so to avoid something bumping the deuce and having a run away. I'm trying to wrap my head around how that would happen. Would a run away only be possible with the engine stop pushed in, or is there some way for these things to get going with the engine stop pulled out? Never really found an answer to this; just horror stories of the things taking off in a light breeze.

I just had my parking brake shoes relined and picked them up yesterday. I bought the lining and rivets and had a local company install them for only $60, and will be reinstalling them this weekend. One thing I would suggest is to also replace the return and moustache springs while you are there. I started working on mine to replace the cable because it was sticking in the sheath and not engaging the brake shoe, but as I started taking it apart I found the shoes were almost gone and the return spring broke when I tried to remove it. The new springs are cheap insurance to not have a future problem.

 

[rtadams89]

Thanks for the tips. I crawled under today and the linings still have enough material left, but the cable adjustment is almost 9/10 out. I think that just needs to be tightened up. Now the trick is figuring out how to actually get to the rust old nut with enough leverage...

 

[gimpyrobb]

There is 2 types of parking brakes. One is the "whale tail" style which the only adjustment is under the truck at the brake lever. The other has an adjustment(twist the tip) on the lever you pull in the cab.

Which one do you have?

 

[rtadams89]

I have the twist tip. When the twist tip on the lever is screwed all the way in, the parking brake just barely holds the truck. When I look under the truck, the adjustment point there is backed 9/10th of the way out, so I have quite a bit of room to tighten it up as soon as I can figure out how to reach the nut.

 

[jbayer]

Thats why you remove the driveshaft. It's almost impossible to get two hands up there when it's not rusted.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Its not much fun, I think its like a 1/4 wrench at the end of the cable and 3/4 for the nut itself. I'd say to twist the tip in 90% of the way and then adjust most slack out at the bottom. Then you can make fine adjustments from the seat from that point out.

 

[Eliteweapons]

Just pull the driveshaft now. Its easy to do and you will need to do it anyway to pull the drum off for reassembly. I fought with mine for a while and just pulled the drum, put the brake assembly on it and then put the assembly back in. Remember you will get some gear oil from the transfer case when you pull that drum out so have a bucket ready.

 

[clinto]

Its not much fun, I think its like a 1/4 wrench at the end of the cable and 3/4 for the nut itself. I'd say to twist the tip in 90% of the way and then adjust most slack out at the bottom. Then you can make fine adjustments from the seat from that point out.

Correct on all points.

Invest in a ratcheting stubby wrench like this:

 

[clinto]

I've done a ton of these, let me offer a few points.

1. You might as well take the entire assembly apart so you can clean it. I have gotten so many of these where one of the shoes was seized on the bellcrank because it had corrosion on it. Take it apart and clean it. Once the bellcrank pivot shafts are clean, you can put some wheel bearing grease on them and in the holes of the shoes so everything is good.



2. There are 3 springs in this system: one is a return spring that goes from the bellcrank to the frame, one is a short spring that pulls the upper shoe upwards when the cable is released and the last is a mustache spring hat theoretically keeps the inner and outer shoe apart. They all seem to get brittle and crack. I pretty much expect to replace them whenever I get a new truck.



3. Getting that little short upper spring from the upper shoe onto the adjustment bolt is a nightmare. It's a really stiff spring and you really have to stretch it, in really tight quarters. For me, it's easier just to remove the assy., put the spring in the upper shoe, then stick the upper shoe position, get the spring over the bolt and then put the show into position. You can then install the bellcrank, which you've already installed the inner shoe on.

4. Make sure it's adjusted properly in terms of release. The adjusting bolt at top controls how far the outer shoe releases and in turn, this affect the relationship between how the inner and outer shoes come together to grab the drum.

5. When finished, listen carefully for the shoes dragging on the drum. If drag exists, keep adjusting. There's a sweet spot with strong holding power and no drag.

 

[Dm35]

Just pull the driveshaft now. Its easy to do and you will need to do it anyway to pull the drum off for reassembly. I fought with mine for a while and just pulled the drum, put the brake assembly on it and then put the assembly back in. Remember you will get some gear oil from the transfer case when you pull that drum out so have a bucket ready.

The next time you or someone else does a replacement on the parking brak can you make a video.
Thank you in advance.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[silverstate55]

I've done a ton of these, let me offer a few points.

1. You might as well take the entire assembly apart so you can clean it. I have gotten so many of these where one of the shoes was seized on the bellcrank because it had corrosion on it. Take it apart and clean it. Once the bellcrank pivot shafts are clean, you can put some wheel bearing grease on them and in the holes of the shoes so everything is good.

View attachment 658903View attachment 658904

2. There are 3 springs in this system: one is a return spring that goes from the bellcrank to the frame, one is a short spring that pulls the upper shoe upwards when the cable is released and the last is a mustache spring hat theoretically keeps the inner and outer shoe apart. They all seem to get brittle and crack. I pretty much expect to replace them whenever I get a new truck.

View attachment 658907View attachment 658906

3. Getting that little short upper spring from the upper shoe onto the adjustment bolt is a nightmare. It's a really stiff spring and you really have to stretch it, in really tight quarters. For me, it's easier just to remove the assy., put the spring in the upper shoe, then stick the upper shoe position, get the spring over the bolt and then put the show into position. You can then install the bellcrank, which you've already installed the inner shoe on.

4. Make sure it's adjusted properly in terms of release. The adjusting bolt at top controls how far the outer shoe releases and in turn, this affect the relationship between how the inner and outer shoes come together to grab the drum.

5. When finished, listen carefully for the shoes dragging on the drum. If drag exists, keep adjusting. There's a sweet spot with strong holding power and no drag.

BEST advice right there!

I bought a great-condition Deuce with the C "whistler" turbo a few years back, for CHEAP price....it was listed as "No Reverse" due to stalling whenever it was shifted into reverse. I suspected (and later confirmed) that the transmission was fine, but the parking brake was out of adjustment & had broken springs, causing the parking brake shoe to bind and stall the truck when in reverse.

Any issues with reversing, follow the fantastic advice above and you can't go wrong. It's not bad once you get the hang of it, like Clinto says.

 

[Paul Valentine]

The parking brake on my new Deuce seems to be barely functional. It keeps it from rolling when parked on just past flat ground, but anything beyond that and it will take off. So:

1. I ran out of light today to check (not literally, I have a flashlight with the Deuce), but assuming the pads are still good and I just need to adjust the cable, can I do so without removing the propeller shafts and such? The TM has the cable adjustment as part of parking brakeshoe maintenance section which has a prerequisite for the propeller shafts to be removed, but that seems to only be necessary for the other steps.
2. If the lining is mostly gone, the TM specifies to replace the whole brakeshoe. Is there any harm to re-lining the existing shoe? I see a number of threads here where people have done just that, but the comment that goes along is always along the lines of "I don't want to spend the money on new brakeshoes yet, so for now I'm just relining." Is there any performance/safety reason to NOT save the money and just reline?
3. I'm sure this one will fire a few people up: while the parking brake is in this weak state, I've considered parking the deuce in gear (with the engine stop pulled out and the wheels chocked). I see the TM and numerous threads here talk about not doing so to avoid something bumping the deuce and having a run away. I'm trying to wrap my head around how that would happen. Would a run away only be possible with the engine stop pushed in, or is there some way for these things to get going with the engine stop pulled out? Never really found an answer to this; just horror stories of the things taking off in a light breeze.