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M35A2 Radiator

snocrazy

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Munising, MI
Hello!

Can any one help me with the procedure (manual) for removing a radiator from a m35a2 with the multi fuel engine in it? She is leaking all over. I brought the truck to a radiator shop and they quoted me $150.for a complete rebuild. There is a catch. They will not remove it from the truck. I have to hand them the radiator. I have worked on cars all of my life. Never a truck like this. Any help you can provide to a noob will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

gmayor

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St. Robert, MO
I did one on my M52A2, I don't know if it is that different. It took about half a day not very hard, just work and easy to figure out. I paid a lot more for my M52 radiator, so the price souonds good to me. I'm sure someone has some pics.
 

Jake0147

Member
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18
18
Location
Panton, VT
Very very simple. Four bolts removes the front grille. Two spring loaded bolts at the bottom of the radiator, one bolt removes the top "clevis linkage", two hoses and it's all yours.
 

vtdeucedriver

Well-known member
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Location
Vermont
Got to add to that.......................If you have a winch model, put a piece of thin sheet metal between your winch and radiator cause you need to tilt it out just a little. It will save you from needing to bend your fins straight again. A trick I learned from listening to a vietnam Vet.
 

doghead

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Don't forget the ground strap at the bottom right(passenger) side, it bolts to the frame crossmember. In my trucks without winch, I have been able to remove them(radiator) and install them without removing the fan blade.

It is covered step by step, in the TM 9-2320-361-24-1, including pictures.
 

vtdeucedriver

Well-known member
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PS. I read this again, you may need to take the fan off. Its been a while since I have done the job but I believe I did and while I had it out, I changed the waterpump and did my belts and hoses while it was all off. Also now would be the time to check the fuel line that runs from the primary filter to the left side of the truck. Look to make sure that there are no weak spots.
 

snocrazy

New member
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Munising, MI
Boy that was fun. I did get it out. It seems the winch has some damage. Looks like there was a plate across the back on the radiator side of the winch. I know there is one for the top of the winch. I found that in the cab. It looks to me like some one ran the winch and pulled the end of the cable through the thing. Any one sell one of these plates? The 1" bolts are still there with the remnants of what the plate used to be. It is bent and soooo close to he radiator on the side with the engage lever. Used a piece of sheet metal to protect the lower radiator on the way out. (great suggestion)

There was a couple of pieces of drywall wedged under the radiator. This was in addition to 2 rubber squares under each of the spring loaded bolts. What is the rubber base supposed to look like?

There was no way I was going to get the thing out with out removing the fan blade. By the way, that is the most rediculous fan I have ever held in my hand. Talk about heavy for a fan!

Attaching pictures of it all.......
 

Attachments

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Those rubber squares are all thats supposed to be there stock, no drywall. Alot of guys have said it would be good to have them thicker. When I did mine, it took longer to let the coolant drain than it did to take the radiator out.
 

snocrazy

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Munising, MI
So I did get the radiator back in. No more leaks:)
I did run in to an issue. Those rubber pads! I discovered why the last person in there had the pieces of drywall wedged under the radiator. I put it all back together with out it. I kept thinking there had to be a reason for it being there. Well, I found it. With only the 2 rubber pads on each side (over the 2 bolts with springs), the drive shaft connected to the winch would hit the radiator. Thank god I noticed! Nothing looks bent or any thing. It is beyond me why this is the case. ANy one else ever run in to this?

My quick fix was to jam rubber under the center of the two spring loaded bolts.
With it all tight, the lock nuts under the spings barely have the threads of the bolt all the way through.
 

FreightTrain

Banned
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Gadsden,Al
Either something is bent slightly or you have the wrong drive shaft in the truck.Shouldn't hurt anything having to shim the radiator as long as you don't shim it enough to let the fan blades hit the shroud.
 

dc3coyote

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Of course a child could do it they designed these trucks for infantry....
the only other thing that really helps is having someone else there to help.
 
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