M35A2 stuck fuel rack

[JTB18]

Hi guys new to the forms here but my dads buddy has an M35A2 that he wants gone off his property it was daily driven but then sat for 3 years and he went to fire it up and seems to just run at wideopen throttle was wondering what exactly I should do to free the rack up so I could hopefully drive it home instead of him sending it to the scrapyard any input would greatly help.

 

[Mullaney]

Hi guys new to the forms here but my dads buddy has an M35A2 that he wants gone off his property it was daily driven but then sat for 3 years and he went to fire it up and seems to just run at wideopen throttle was wondering what exactly I should do to free the rack up so I could hopefully drive it home instead of him sending it to the scrapyard any input would greatly help.

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So, if it starts and runs - but wants to run wide open - it is possible that the links to the fuel peddle are rusted. You could invest in a couple of cans of penetrating oil and soak everything on the drivers side where the fuel feed controls are....

Cheap way to maybe fix the problem.

Soak it today, Soak it tomorrow and the day after. Then try again. An extra set of eyes looking to see if something that is moving that shouldn't be or the other way around.

Get somebody to sit in the drivers seat and push the "gas peddle". Watch what happens. It might be simple... Soak everything that moves and see what happens.

 

[NDT]

How to remove the Fuel Shutoff Rod on the IP | SteelSoldiers

 

[ToddJK]

I'd ask him if he always left the shutoff switch out or in. If he made it a common practice to leave it in after engine shut down, it's common for the fuel rack or whatever it's called to get stuck and sometimes wide open. NDT's post covers that on how to deal with it. Best of luck and hopefully it's a simple solution but if possible, provide some pictures of the truck. We all like our pictures, lol.

Also, I'd highly recommend viewing all Injection Pump threads you can find on here but also, Tactical Repair has some good videos on YouTube on the M-35 series injection pumps.

 

[JTB18]

Ok sounds good gonna do some more research tonight and tomorrow morning I'm gonna go uo and try to work on it ill make sure to get some pictures too lol. Thanks for your input.

 

[JTB18]

How to remove the Fuel Shutoff Rod on the IP | SteelSoldiers
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This may sound dumb but I’m kind of new to this can the fuel shutoff rod also cause it to be stuck at wide open throttle or is that caused by the rack itself. And where is the rack rod located to Mae sure it moves freely. Thanks

 

[Welder1]

Hi guys new to the forms here but my dads buddy has an M35A2 that he wants gone off his property it was daily driven but then sat for 3 years and he went to fire it up and seems to just run at wideopen throttle was wondering what exactly I should do to free the rack up so I could hopefully drive it home instead of him sending it to the scrapyard any input would greatly help.

More than likely the fuel shutoff lever is sticking. Pull the shutoff cover that's where the cable for the shutoff is connected. There is a lever there that moves forward and back. Forward is wide open and back towards the firewall is shutoff. It should move freely and when released it should snap back to forward. If it is stuck or sticky spray some penetrating spray in there and cycle by hand to free it up. This is a common problem on trucks that sit for long periods.



Eddie

 

[JTB18]

Alright thankyou

 

[JTB18]

Well got the fuel shutoff rack un stuck and fired right up no air leaks surprisingly but went to top off the radiator and water pour out in between the two heads are there freeze plugs that are located between the 2? Other then that the brakes work and it will move under its own power.

 

[SCSG-G4]

There is a pipe that runs from the water pump to the oil cooler that has a couple of rubber 'connectors' on it, the rear one is right about half way back on the engine. If it's leaking, you will probably need to replace both connectors. If that is what the problem is, you will need eight inches of 2 inch diameter rubber hose, cut in half. Put the rear one on first then align and twist the front one back in place (twisting the hose often gets it to slide back on easier), then tighten down all the hose clamps (You did put them back on before you replaced the hose, correct). I got to do this on the side of the road on July 4, on the way to a parade. By the time it was fixed, the parade was over, so I just went back home. Do not try this on a hot engine - your hands will be in some tight places and will be in firm contact with the engine (ask me how I know).

 

[JTB18]

SCSG-G4 thanks for the tip but when I was up on top of it running it was running down both sides of the motor and the stream seemed to be from in the middle of the two heads.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Yes, the heads do have freeze plugs. The TM will tell you more, and so will this post https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/all-this-for-a-freeze-plug.11295/post-107206
The short-and-not-so-sweet is that you need to pull the head(s) to do the end plugs. Hopefully it is just a hose as mentioned above.

 

[JTB18]

Alright thanks for the input definitely believe its the freeze plugs cause I had to replace the one on the rear of the head cause it was rusted through so that's probably it. I wish it was the oil cooler line but from the looks of it its not. Now that I'm home I wish I would of took some pics of it for you guys.

 

[bprzyw]

Alright thanks for the input definitely believe its the freeze plugs cause I had to replace the one on the rear of the head cause it was rusted through so that's probably it. I wish it was the oil cooler line but from the looks of it its not. Now that I'm home I wish I would of took some pics of it for you guys.

Good luck with your new toy! I’ve had the same issues. Now I’m onto pulling the heads for freeze plug replacement.

 

[bprzyw]

You can get the stainless steel or brass ones from most auto parts stores, they are not expensive. Most of the cost will be in gaskets

 

[JTB18]

Ya I looked it up on for a top end gasket set is like 400 bucks but for the individual head gasket it's 100 bucks but odds are ill get the top end kit so I now everything is good. Definitely going to put brass ones in instead of the steel so hopefully something like this won't happen again lol.

 

[bprzyw]

Make sure to get the newer style head gaskets!

 

[rustystud]

Ya I looked it up on for a top end gasket set is like 400 bucks but for the individual head gasket it's 100 bucks but odds are ill get the top end kit so I now everything is good. Definitely going to put brass ones in instead of the steel so hopefully something like this won't happen again lol.

If you don't change out all the plugs to brass, don't bother. The brass will interact with the old steel ones causing them to go out much faster. Use stainless steel ones like "bprzyw" mentioned. I bought them for my Deuce several years ago.