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M35A2 throttle sticking

M35fan

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I'm sure this isn't the first time this question has been asked. My 72 Deuce has the LDT 465-1C. It normally starts, idles, and runs very smooth. Today I went out to start her up, and she fired up instantly. I noticed that the rpms were a little high, at around 850-900. I let it idle for a few minutes and then tried bumping the accelerator. Rpms increased to around 1100 and stayed there. I shut her down and started searching the forum. My best guess is something in the linkage is sticking. That doesn't explain the slightly high idle, though. Could someone point me in the right direction, i.e. common points that stick and need cleaning? Should I remove the cable and lube it? Thanks for any and all advice.
 

M35fan

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Location
Arab, Alabama
Does the foot pedal operate smoothly? mine was crusty and would cause it to stick causing higher RPM's
I got tired of putting my toe under the pedal and pulling it back. Cleaned and lubed it up.
Also check the return spring.
Thanks for the reply. I will check more in depth tomorrow. There is bad weather here tonight. The pedal has always felt a bit stiff, but not gritty. Time to go back over my L.O.
 

m715mike

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Montgomery, Texas
Does the foot pedal operate smoothly? mine was crusty and would cause it to stick causing higher RPM's
I got tired of putting my toe under the pedal and pulling it back. Cleaned and lubed it up.
Also check the return spring.
This has happened to a few of us. Hopefully cleaning the hinge on your foot petal will fix the problem.
 

ldmack3

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N. Central Idaho
Just noticed mine is sticking down when the engine is not running. Crawled under and shot some lube on it. But still not free. Ran it the other day and no issues, like the vibration kept it moving but not something I want to count on. Would like to pull the pin but mine is a little bent. How is everyone getting them out? No room to hammer.
 

ldmack3

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Yea I think I'm going to pull the tranny tunnel so I can hit the pin. Just got it undercoated, painted and sound proofed/sealed around the edges and installed. If I gotta pull it again I gotta pull it. I'll try the vice grips first.
I've pulled the cotter pin on the linkage rod, shot some kroil on the hinge and worked it back forth. Better but still not free.
I'll let it soak overnight and try it again. Also noticed the rod thru the floor was dragging on the left side of the slot so I opened it up a little.
 

Computerdoc08

Active member
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Location
Florida
I’m having a similar idle issue, my throttle needed to be pulled out about an inch to idle normally Since I got the truck 1.5 years ago. The idle cable started moving back in by itself while driving causing low idle when warming up / cooling down or stopping.

I replaced the throttle return spring and lubed the pedal hinge on the accelerator. The throttle moves nice and free now and the pedal moves in conjunction when I pull/push the throttle.

The problem I have now is once I start the truck, the idle slowly rises to 1,000 to 1,200 RPMs... I watch the pedal slowly move toward the floor on its own causing the idle to increase.

also, the cable cinch bolt is missing on the cable that locks it to the firewall.

Im thinking I may have the adjust the end of the throttle cable or the screw on the IP?
 

frank8003

In Memorial
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Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
All this information can't hurt.......

Also When I was young all the car manufatures went to double springs or better on the "hold back spring".
I had no steering box so devised a douuble spring thingin, Here spring throttle deuce 01262015 IMG_4430.JPGtruck throttle spring.jpg

is my solutions. If everything in Fiure 32 is good and clean and adjusted properly than that would go a long way to insure no failures or problems. This depicts all the fasteners and widgets to condend with.
Part 44 wason the original steering box and #43 was the original spring. All springs wear out.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
I’m having a similar idle issue, my throttle needed to be pulled out about an inch to idle normally Since I got the truck 1.5 years ago. The idle cable started moving back in by itself while driving causing low idle when warming up / cooling down or stopping.

I replaced the throttle return spring and lubed the pedal hinge on the accelerator. The throttle moves nice and free now and the pedal moves in conjunction when I pull/push the throttle.

The problem I have now is once I start the truck, the idle slowly rises to 1,000 to 1,200 RPMs... I watch the pedal slowly move toward the floor on its own causing the idle to increase.

also, the cable cinch bolt is missing on the cable that locks it to the firewall.

Im thinking I may have the adjust the end of the throttle cable or the screw on the IP?
spring is worn out?
 

Computerdoc08

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
125
214
43
Location
Florida
spring is worn out?
I installed a new throttle return spring. Not having the cable cinch bolt may be the issue as the entire cable is moving in and out of the firewall.

I checked the following TM and without the cinch bolt cant achieve the spec below....
 

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Computerdoc08

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
125
214
43
Location
Florida
I installed a new throttle return spring. Not having the cable cinch bolt may be the issue as the entire cable is moving in and out of the firewall.

I checked the following TM and without the cinch bolt cant achieve the spec below....
Does anyone know the official name of the hollow core cinch bolt? I checked at a local hardware store and Napa and neither had anything close.
 
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