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M35A2C troop seat/ side braces

Jake0147

Member
782
18
18
Location
Panton, VT
If you're using the troop seats in the upright position (as sideboards), stacking for example firewood into the truck, they ensure that the back of the dropsides don't spread any more than what you can still screw in the tailgate latches. I figured that was their primary goal. They don't do much but sit there after the gate's shut.
 

LanceRobson

Well-known member
1,638
206
63
Location
Pinnacle, Stokes County, NC
m16ty said "I don't think they are designed to support the sides. I think they are to keep the dropside from dropping while the troops are in the seat (a safety mesure)"

I think he's nailed it. I was thinking in terms of cargo but I can see where stability would be a big issue when about 16 "Joes" are going "buttholes and elbows" piling into the Family Truckster

Lance
 

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,580
218
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Location
Dickson,TN
I got measurements today off the top part to make a set. All I need now is the measurements for the bottom (threaded part). Can anyone give me an overall length and the length of the threads?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
I saw those sitting on the floor when I was at Sermis' last week. I should have asked about them then. A week too late.

I also need a set. I agree that unless you have cargo pushing the sides out, the tail gate will keep them together. However, how many of you have perfectly straight drop side tail gates? Mine is bent some and I hate having to screw those stupid screws in to pull the sides to the tail gate. I keep thinking these braces will hold the sides closer to speed up tail gate up and down cycle time.
 

scooter01922

Well-known member
1,721
42
48
Location
Newbury, MA
I'll add my name to the list of guys that want a set. Why is it that every dropside tailgate is out of square???? Its not like they are flimsy and easily bent. I have actually dropped the sides on mine, once. Had to pick up 2 one ton pallets of wood pellets for my grandfather. Made the loading so easy, took all of 2 min to drop the side, another 2 for the guy on the forklift to load them and then 2 more to put the side back up. I was actually surprised a bit, the sides seem to move back up more easily than the tailgate despite being longer. My grand plan is to use one of those ratcheting straps (the 10K lb brake strength ones) to hold the rear of the bed together when i need to pick up any loose cargo such as gravel, sand or the like. I think if i tighten it up right at the rear corners of the bed before loading then i should be able to easily open the tailgate weight free when i need to unload.
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
5,370
3,383
113
Location
Lexington, South Carolina
He's talking about the brace that runs from the top of the 'dropside' down to the floor of the bed to keep the side from dropping when the tailgate is lowered. That's one of the things I like about the M-36 - that corner post is there even when the side and tailgate are down.
 

jimm1009

Well-known member
1,165
71
48
Location
Louisville, KY
side brace

Hey guys and gals,
I took a brace off my truck and am making a sketch with some pictures too.
I should have it done in 30 minutes or so and will post it then.
The thread is 1/2-20 on the one end that is threaded.
Jim, back soon
 

jimm1009

Well-known member
1,165
71
48
Location
Louisville, KY
O.K. I have no drawing software so laugh away, I would.

There are some pictures of the rod after I cleaned off the loose & flaking CARC.

Esentially the assembly hast two 1/2 diameter rods bent to somewhere between 88 & 89 degrees. Both rods are 3 1/4 inches long after bending as measured outside overall length.
One of the two has 1/2 20 threads cut into it and the thread length is 1 3/4 inches long. There is a 1/4 wide, free running nut jused to jame the threads once it's set to length.
The two bent rods are set into a 14 1/16 inch long tube. The tube is .753 diameter and has a wall thickness of 1/8 inch.
The non-threaded, bent rod is set into tht tube to the dimension of 1 7/8 and welded in place. This rod is drilled with a 1/6 diameter (approx) hole for the cotter pin.
The other rode is threaded into place and jammed once set. The threaded rod has a chamfer on it that tapers to 3/8 inch. This aids in insertion in the below-the-floor "notch". I hope this is close enough that you can understand and fabricate using the sup0plied information.
All the parts are cad plated when finished.
 

Attachments

TaylorTradingCo

Active member
586
68
28
Location
Ringgold, GA
local parts

I live just below Chattanooga, TN. I have a dropside. You are welcome to come down and look at mine to see if you can make some.

Derek Taylor
423-255-6509
 
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