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M35A3 Bobbing problems

clb076

New member
35
1
0
Location
Jonesboro, Louisiana
I am in the process of bobbing my 1995 A3 and have run into a few problems. I have gotten the bed off and cut the heads off of all the rivets on the rear sub frame. I was able to get the side brace plates off the frame with relative ease, however the rivets that held it are still in place. They just didn't want to punch out! I'm not all that concetned with them since can grind them down further and hopefullu punch them out once I get the sub frame off and out of the way.

My real issue is how to separate the sub frame. As I Said earlier the heads are cut off the rivets. After beating, prying and jacking for several hours I'm lost. Does anyone have suggestions? I am headed back to fire up my light plant and take some
Pictures. Thanks for any help!
-CLB
 

KsM715

Well-known member
5,149
142
63
Location
St George Ks
Get an old hatchet and a BFH. You did get the rivets that go through the bottom flange of the frame aswell right?


Edit: that first pic looks bad. I wasn't trying to cut the rivet with the hatchet, Just getting it started to pry the plate away from the frame. Once you get it started you can get a couple of wide chisels and keep working down till you have it bent out and popped off all the rivets. WARNING: do not get your head over one chisel while trying to hit the other, They will pop out on occasion with a bit of force behind them
 

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dilligaf13

Active member
563
33
28
Location
south, florida
Those rivets are pressed in and usually need to be punched out to release the subframe. Also double check that you didn't miss any rivets or bolt. A couple of them are kind of hidden up in the corner of the frame bracket. The ones in the corners are a bear to punch out and I've found the easiest method is to torch both heads off and blow a hole in the center of the rivet with the torch. They punch out a lot easier after that. If I remember correctly it's 48 rivets that need to be removed.
 

HanksDeuce

Well-known member
1,081
242
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Location
Prairieville, LA
We torched all of the rivet heads off and removed the side plates. No luck manually removing the rear axles. I had a friend pick my truck up several inches off the ground (from the pintle hitch in the rear) with his Deuce wrecker and drop it. It took 3 drops to separate the frame from the axles. :D And that was after I tried to use a hydraulic jack between the axle assembly and the center cross member. Don't put too much pressure on the cross member or it will bend. BFH and wedges didn't work either.
 

bjsmith

New member
272
1
0
Location
zachary,la
i put jack betwen it and crossmember put some pressure on it then used punch between it and frame and couple hits later it was off
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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2,503
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Location
Interlachen Fl.
I like to blow off all rivets on the side frame plate and then use a axe not a hatchett and hit it with the biggest thing you got. By removing the whole plate I believe it gives you more room to work the rest of the system Then the rivets that are inside the pocketts and a ditch to get into with the fire wrench are blowen off use the axe and big sludge between the frame and spring pack mounting system. I have removed them both ways blow them out with the fire wrench or use fire wrench to shorten what is left of the rivet after the hanger system is removed and center punch the remander and drill a good size hole then use a airhammer to get rid if the rivet. The thing I found with punching is it can expand the rivet you are trying to remove so try and not use a tapered puch and larger than the hole you drilled.
Had to LOL a bit when someone said the tryed to remove the rear with a chisel. I told them about the axe and sludge and it came off a lot faster.
 

Vintage iron

Active member
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16
38
Location
Falmouth Ma.
I take a torch and heat the rivet till it is ready to melt and hit the oxy. It will blow a hole through to the other side and release the pressure, then use a punch to hammer them out. It is easier when they are still hot. If you like this part, wait till you have to drill the frame! :smile:
 

DUECE-COUPE

Member
357
5
18
Location
Scurry. Tx
I start with a 3/4 inch chisel, I start at the back of the truck and get the chisel started and use a pair of vice grips to hold it. After you get it started, and you get the gap growing, you can move up to ta bigger chisel, or an old axe head. if you jack up the truck and suspend the walking beam while you work, the weight will aid in the separation of frame and fixture. i had a guy fight with it all day, and then i got home and had it apart in 5 minutes.
 

DUECE-COUPE

Member
357
5
18
Location
Scurry. Tx
one more thing, when you do get the walking beam out, remove or grind down the rivets sticking up, the edges will be sharp, and will cut like a knife when you are trying to roll or handle it. been there, done that, have the scars to prove it.
 

HanksDeuce

Well-known member
1,081
242
63
Location
Prairieville, LA
Glad you got it!

One day someone will try the "drop method" to separate the axle assembly from the frame and they will thank me! Took less than a minute! hehe
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Congrats!! Now have fun drilling those holes for the spring hangers. :wink:
It is 4X CS divided by diameter and has to do with the metallurgy of what you are drilling into.
Magnetic base drill, proper speed, correct drill included angle and back rake has to do with it.
You would all be surprised as what is the best lubricant to use on the twist drill.
Did you ever drill holes in railroad tracks?
 
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