M35A3 Power Assist Steering Problems

[jlperryman]

I have a M35A3 that has is having a problem leaking air from the component between the pitman arm and steering knuckle. Air leaks out the exhaust ports and the compressor has a hard time keeping up. The air was turned off to the steering assist when I received the truck and I can now see why. I beleive this component is just worn out. Does anyone know where there might be a good used one or a way to fix the existing one? Thanks, Jeff

 

[Floridianson]

Yea I got something like that going on to. It leaks out the ehaust hose when I turn to one side to. I shut down the air to the unit driver side firewall.
I read some where to try and run some air tool oil through the unit and hope it is just a stuck valve. If not I hope that that part can be had to fix or take it apart clean and pray. I have two full kits left from when Bryan had them for sale. I don't want to bust open the box's so I will see what's up when I get a chance. Good luck.

 

[Rustygears]

Air tool lube oil or Marvel Mystery Oil works wonders on the steering control valve. The internal parts can seize with rust/crud due to moisture in the compressed air. Disconnect the air source and pour some in then work the steering wheel back and forth to cycle the valve. It may take a few applications to get it working. This will also lube the the steering RAM as well.

Be really sure its the steering valve is actually leaking. The most common air leak in that system actually comes from the regulator which is located inside the frame 'C' channel across from the steering control valve. It is notorious for gross leaks and some just remove it and bypass, others replace it. I replaced mine and I originally thought my control valve was the source of the leak too. Do a search on A3 power steering and see the many posts on this same topic.

 

[guns1977]

Yea I got something like that going on to. It leaks out the ehaust hose when I turn to one side to. I shut down the air to the unit driver side firewall.
I read some where to try and run some air tool oil through the unit and hope it is just a stuck valve. If not I hope that that part can be had to fix or take it apart clean and pray. I have two full kits left from when Bryan had them for sale. I don't want to bust open the box's so I will see what's up when I get a chance. Good luck.

Been tryn to get mine free'd up, no luck so now i pulled it off. Anyone got a parts breakdown handy? So im not going into it blind, i did notice the lower seal has allowed grit, grime, etc on the underside of the steering valve, hope it didnt get on into it.
Thanks

 

[R Racing]

You can rebuild them. I rebuilt mine. I did a post on here about 3 years ago showing you how.

 

[guns1977]

You can rebuild them. I rebuilt mine. I did a post on here about 3 years ago showing you how.

Thanks, i found the one on the cyl rebuild, i will look a little more for the steering valve one

 

[m16ty]

You can rebuild them. I rebuilt mine. I did a post on here about 3 years ago showing you how.

You rebuild the cylinder or the drag link sensor? I've had a sensor laying on my workbench and I never could find out how to get it apart. Best I remember is was assembled with steel pins in blind holes to prevent disassembly.

 

[gimpyrobb]

One guy here has rebuilt the torque valve(I think thats its correct name).

M35tom has offered for someone to send one to him and he would look it over for them(open invitation), so that might be an option for one of you.

 

[gimpyrobb]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-a-little-trouble-with-my-Steering&highlight=

 

[m16ty]

Mine isn't broken. I was just going to take it apart to see what the condition was and just out of curiosity. When I ran into the steel pins I quit. I think they purposely designed it where it couldn't be easily disassembled, possibly for liability reasons and so you'd have to send it to them for service.

I don't think I'll let Tom have mine at the moment.

The torque valve is supposed to exhaust air out of the exhaust port during normal operation. For those that are having problems, just make sure it's actually leaking and not normally exhausting.

 

[gimpyrobb]

In talking with some of the folks that have the air assist installed, it seems it is most use-full at low speeds. While driving down the road, it makes it hard to keep straight. I think when mine gets installed, it will have a switch like the front axle switch to turn it on/off.

 

[m16ty]

In talking with some of the folks that have the air assist installed, it seems it is most use-full at low speeds. While driving down the road, it makes it hard to keep straight. I think when mine gets installed, it will have a switch like the front axle switch to turn it on/off.

That's been my experience.

I may mount a valve on mine and give disconnecting the assist a try. It's bound to help but I'm not so sure it will solve all the issues. Part of the problem is the small amount the torque valve moves in and out, causing slack.

 

[guns1977]

Yes the drag sensor is giving me problems,it used to work but now once air,pressure builds up it will dump all the air in the tank out the exhaust, then cycle continues, since its not a serviceable part can i clean and lube it, seems like the unloading vavle (i think) is stuck.
Thanks

 

[peashooter]

I attached some TMs for the AOM system. I remember a member named Turbotim (I think) rebuilt his before. I think the problem is just getting the socket head cap screws out that are installed with permanent Loctite. A torch would probably loosen them (and wreck everything inside) or you can take the time to drill them out and re-tap. My drag link started leaking too, I tried lots of stuff but the only thing that finally worked was unhooking the ram lines and putting some marvel mystery oil into the drag link supply port, then turning the wheel back and fourth getting things loosened up. After it got loosened up I put air tool oil through it and worked it back and forth for a half hour or so (adding air tool oil often) just to try to work the MMO out of the system so it didn't wreck the rubber inside.
A tip that worked well for me was to install a 1/4npt quick connect coupler into the supply port and then I could just attach my air compressor to it. That made it easy to unhook, add oil and hook the air compressor back up easily. After everything was working well I connected the trucks air hoses back up to the drag link.

 

[R Racing]

You rebuild the cylinder or the drag link sensor? I've had a sensor laying on my workbench and I never could find out how to get it apart. Best I remember is was assembled with steel pins in blind holes to prevent disassembly.

I rebuilt the piston. Although I believe I may have taken the sensor apart as well but it was fine.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I attached some TMs for the AOM system. I remember a member named Turbotim (I think) rebuilt his before. I think the problem is just getting the socket head cap screws out that are installed with permanent Loctite. A torch would probably loosen them (and wreck everything inside) or you can take the time to drill them out and re-tap. My drag link started leaking too, I tried lots of stuff but the only thing that finally worked was unhooking the ram lines and putting some marvel mystery oil into the drag link supply port, then turning the wheel back and fourth getting things loosened up. After it got loosened up I put air tool oil through it and worked it back and forth for a half hour or so (adding air tool oil often) just to try to work the MMO out of the system so it didn't wreck the rubber inside.
A tip that worked well for me was to install a 1/4npt quick connect coupler into the supply port and then I could just attach my air compressor to it. That made it easy to unhook, add oil and hook the air compressor back up easily. After everything was working well I connected the trucks air hoses back up to the drag link.

The link I posted was to TurboTim's thread.

I wonder if adding an "in-line oiler" would help keep the torque valve from sticking.



How many of you guys have an air dryer on your trucks? (I know A3 trucks have them)

 

[R Racing]

Mine has a air dryer on it.

 

[welldigger]

Mine is going to have an air dryer before I install the AOM. Both are sitting in my shop for when I get to that point.

I personally think it's pretty important to have a dryer with the aom. That torque valve doesn't seem to like moisture. Especially if your truck isn't driven often.

 

[gimpyrobb]

That is where I was going with the question. I have a rebuilt air dryer waiting to go on prior to my AOM.

I know it seems redundant, will running an alcohol bottle at the compressor have issues with an air dryer?

 

[welldigger]

That is where I was going with the question. I have a rebuilt air dryer waiting to go on prior to my AOM.

I know it seems redundant, will running an alcohol bottle at the compressor have issues with an air dryer?

Yes!!! It explicitly says not to run alcohol evaporators with the dryer.