• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M37 Rear Axle

153
0
16
Location
NW PA/ Warren County
Anything I should do while I'm in here? Swapping out the wheel cylinder and rear brake line.. Seemed to be a little oil 'splash' in the drum, but overall, not too bad for a '54, in my opinion. Brake lining was in great shape, spring was great, all hardware moved freely, wheel cylinder was in great need of replacement... it was 'puking' brown mud... real nice. Anyone have any experience changing any of the seals in this axle? I have a handle on the brake parts, but I'm not that familiar with an axle like this. Any 'mandatory' replacement seals or hardware, such as bearings?? There didn't seem to be any excessive play, from what I can tell at least. Just thought I'd get some second opinions before I button it all up. Pics were taken after cleanup with some brake cleaner. Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

vtdeucedriver

Well-known member
2,523
38
48
Location
Vermont
If you want to tackle the seals now for the hub, you might as well do them now. Its pretty straight foreward. **** you got the hard part done and thats taking those flat blade countersunk screws out to remove the drum:)[thumbzup]
 
153
0
16
Location
NW PA/ Warren County
Yes.. and I now have the 3 replacement flathead screws, to replace the 3 I had to drill the heads off. That fiasco has a lot to do with why I'm asking this question... Anyhow, how does that hub come off? After I pull the axle shaft, what is there to do?
 

vtdeucedriver

Well-known member
2,523
38
48
Location
Vermont
Well there is a Jam nut to loosten and take off,,,,,,,,,then a key'd lockwasher that slides off and another nut that preloads the bearing. If you had the dodge socket this would be easy too but it can be done with a punch and a hammer to nock the nuts loose but I would buy a socket if you plan on doing the others...........just makes the job easier. Dont ask me what size the nut is...............could not tell you as I have the dodge socket :)

There are 3 gaskets that you will need once you pull that shaft out and the hub off. Inner and outer hub gaskets and the paper shaft gasket. Put some sealer on the paper one as they are notorious for weeping on the 37.................esp if you dont frequently check your Vents!!!:-D
 
153
0
16
Location
NW PA/ Warren County
Allright, glad to see there's something to this. I kept looking at the diagram and removal/install instructions and thinking, 'there has to be more to this, with all those locks and keys..' I have been to the g741, but its been a while. Thanks for all your help!:-D
 

zak

Member
610
-4
18
Location
Ortonville, Mi
There is a bronze bushing and seal at the hub end that's fairly easy to replace. The hardest part is getting the old out. A slide hammer works great. Sid Beck or AB Linn should have the parts. Make sure the seal is not NOS, get new manufacture. If you don't have the manual try and find one, it great.
 

Attachments

Gamagoat1

Active member
746
44
28
Location
Kiowa, Colorado
There is a bronze bushing and seal at the hub end that's fairly easy to replace. The hardest part is getting the old out. A slide hammer works great. Sid Beck or AB Linn should have the parts. Make sure the seal is not NOS, get new manufacture. If you don't have the manual try and find one, it great.
No bronze bushing on the rear axle. Two on each end of the front.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks