I just finished new welting on my rear fenders, they were off for painting, painted both the fender and the side where the welting goes. To see where I had to use a punch to put the bolt holes, I started at one end with a clamp holding the welting to the side, the used blue painter's tape about every five or six inches to hold the welting snug to the side, then heated up an ice pick with a torch, and from above melted a small hole at each hole location, took the welding off, used my punch to cut each bolt hole, then used GOOP, an automotive adhesive to hold the welting in position, again some tape to hold it for a few minutes, then used new Grade 8 one inch fine thread bolts from below, with appropriate flat washers under the bolt heads. I did "chase" the threads on each nut from below, so I didn't risk cross threading any of the weld nuts. Be sure to tighten up the top several bolts first, that pulls the fender up snug to the side, then do the lower ones.
Was one of the few quick and easy chores to restore my M37. Looks great, and the GOOP and the bolts I think will keep it from squeezing out. With a good wire brushing and then a rust converter on both metal parts, then several coats of primer, then two coats of Gillespie paint, I don't think I will worry about rust in my lifetime.
NAM VET
Bed Bolts
Both Fender Beads and or Welting with the welting I think what's important is the inability of water retention.
