M51A2 Broke Could use some info.

[Tototex]

Someone told me that this is my governor but I wanted to check in with you guys and make sure. Its a cylinder shaped object between my steering pump and injector pump. It had 3 springs in it that blew out the bottom and are now resting on my axle. See picture below.



I have a couple questions so I'll list them out.

1.) Do I need to replace just the governor or do I need to replace the injector pump as well?

2.) This 5 ton actually is running off an LDT engine. I do have the injector pump and governor from the old broken LDS engine. Can I use that governor to replace the blown one?

3.) Upon replacing the parts, does any timing or adjustments need to take place? Can anyone point me to some manuals if so?

4.) And lastly, what would cause this part to blow? Am I running to high of RPMs, just old, anything you can think of?

She has been a trooper. I have hauled probably 30 loads of gravel and sand in the last 2 months. I'd like to keep her going!

Thanks in advance!

Jason

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes I would swap the LDS one on to that one(or the whole IP). If you just swap that part you shouldn't have to do anything. If you swap the whole IP, you may have to turn the fuel up or down to meet the original power of the motor.

IMHO, it would be easier (and better) to put the whole LDS ip on the motor in the truck. I would also swap in the rocker arms, but that can wait if you have a project to finish.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Oh, they're old, not sure why those sections go bad, but its happened to others, me included.

 

[Tototex]

I got this a little backwards.

When the original LDS motor blew, Someone installed this LDT motor for me and kept the injection pump from the LDS. So the injection pump that is laying with my old LDS motor is actually off the LDT.

So I would be adding an LDT injection pump back to the LDT motor that is currently powering my 5-ton.

It might be better to pull the LDS injection pump off the motor and than fit the LDT governor to it. I pulled apart the one in my shop and I dont think I can install the governor to the IP while in the truck because they connect horizontally and the springs wont stay in place. I was hoping to just leave the IP connected to the motor to avoid disconnecting all the fuel lines etc, but that doesn't look like an option.

Is it hard to turn the IP up or down? The current one is turned up to much. Diesel leaks out of my turbo/exhaust connector.

 

[gimpyrobb]

No

Not hard to turn up or down.

 

[Tototex]

An update for anyone interested.

I found TM9-2320-211-34-2-1 (MAINTENANCEDIRECT SUPPORT AND GENERAL SUPPORT LEVEL5-TON, 6X6, M39 SERIES(MULTIFUEL))

This TM contains the whole process of removing, adding, and timing the IP.

I am still not convinced this piece is called a governor. I took the replacement IP and attached modules off my replacement engine and circled the part that broke below. Does anyone know the name for this thing?



Today I got my starter pulled off and went to work on the fuel lines. Looks like I can't get a wrench to all the bolt heads to the lines coming out of the fuel pump. Maybe I will have better luck once the whole injector pump assembly is loose and I can wiggle it away from the oil filters.

So far I am trying this without removing my grill or radiator. Someone told me it might be easier to remove the side fender but I haven't done that either. TM says to do both. I'm gonna try and line up the timing notches with a mirror.

Also, I found some broken springs and parts sitting on my axle from the part that blew. Photo for broken awesomeness.

 

[doghead]

That's the governor.

 

[gimpyrobb]

No, you don't need to remove the rad or fender to do the job.

I usually remove the injector lines one at a time. As soon as you get one off, the rest are usually easier.

Once you get all the bolts off and it still won't come off the motor, yes, there is a bolt tucked in between the IP body and motor that is hidden. I usually get to it with a 20 inch ext on my ratchet from the rear of the motor.

 

[Tototex]

Wow, something as simple as removing the lines completely one at a time. Why didn't I think of that... That will definitely make access a breeze.

Realizations like that make me feel like a complete idiot.

Thanks gimpyrobb.

 

[stb64]

That's not the governor. It's the timing device.

 

[doghead]

That's not the governor. It's the timing device.

You are correct, the governor is actually at the other end under the FDC.

See, TM 9-2910-226-34...

 

[Tototex]

Interestingly enough, I scoured through each of the TMs listed on this site under the m39 series looking for the name of that part and I couldn't find it. TM9-2910-226-34 was not listed there while is clearly applies to the m39 and that part name was easy to find there. Its on multiple pages actually. Thanks for that TM number.

How do you get it added to the TM section since they are locked? PM your favorite moderator?

I use the TM section "TM's for the M39 Series 5-ton" almost exclusively while looking through TMs. Is there a better all inclusive resource I am missing? How in the world did you find TM9-2910-226-34?

 

[stb64]

Try the deuce TM section.

 

[mobileauto2000]

You may find that pieces of the springs have made it into the oil pan. I did an oil change and found a ground up spring and could not find a source for it. About a month later my advance unit exploded the day before a 200 mile trip to Washington idling in front of our shop.

God was looking out for me.

 

[Tototex]

Wow, that is some luck breaking down in front of your shop!

It is now snowing pretty hard, and my truck is out in a field.... man... the rest of this project is really going to suck...

 

[gimpyrobb]

Nah, just accept that you'll be working in crap weather and it won't be so bad. Once your mind is right, the task won't be so daunting. 95% of what folks don't realize is that perception is EVERYTHING.

 

[Tototex]

The TM simply says to turn the crank shaft until the timing markers line up. How in the world do you turn the crankshaft?

I can't reach it physically as the radiator and fender are still connected. I had to remove my starter to get my IP out. Do I need to reconnect my starter and turn it over? Is there a better way?

 

[mobileauto2000]

If you have a manual trans, transfer case in neutral, transmission in 5th gear. turn the jump shaft between trans and transfer case with a bar. If its a auto or you are alone I have used a big wrench on the compressor pulley. go slow and let the compression bleed off. Be vary careful as the pulley is not all that strong. Also if the starter is out can you get a big screwdriver on the flywheel teeth and bar it over that way while you watch the timing marks?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Trans in 4th gear and Tcase in neutral, spin the jack shaft

 

[doghead]

Or a pry bar on the starter ring gear.