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M715 carb.

Willscustoms

New member
16
0
0
Location
Palatka/St. Augustine Fl.
My 715 wont run for anything. My dad was an Army mechanic when these trucks were new and he cant figure it out either. The truck wont run unless the choke is at least half way pulled out. Even hot it wont start without full choke, but when we adjusted it and open the choke it floods. Its driving me crazy. I have rebuilt the carb with a military surplus kit. Ive got an electric fuel pump and getting plenty of fuel. It was also missing the idle speed screw. If anyone has an extra carb id buy it but for now I gotta figure this one out. Any advice would be great.
 

txdodge43man

New member
568
4
0
Location
Magnolia, texas
Im sure others will say the same thing try the www.M715zone.com that site is all M715. that being said my dad has had many M715 and in the last year or two the carbs on his m715 and m725 have been rebuilt a couple times we are finding that todays fuel is eating up the O rings fast. pull the carb apart agin you might find you have the same problem. He did find a after market kit but not sure from who.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
The float level is VERY important in these trucks. Off by just a hair will make them run like dog poo.

You can get the repair manuals on the Zone.

I may have a spare idle screw. I will check tonight.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Clean out the needle and seat as well. Mine used to run perfect until all of a sudden about what you describe. I would pull the bowl, clean it out, put it back on and be running fine again. I had 4 fuel filters on it at one point and stuff was still getting by. Taking the tank off to get cleaned at a radiator shop cured my ills.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Somebody could have just turned the distributor too. Mine was 40° off when I got it. Ran fine at all speeds though. Ran better once I set it correctly.
 

Willscustoms

New member
16
0
0
Location
Palatka/St. Augustine Fl.
After alot of traveling work and other projects I'm back to the Kaiser. Puled the Carb all back apart and inspected it everything looked good so just to be certain I threw it in the Carb bath. Going back to my shop to reassemble. The float did not look to high but I'm going to lower it a fuzz anyway. The trucks factory dizzy was replaced with an HEI setup. It was also converted to 12v. It seems to run good where everything is other then running so rich it smokes like a worn out Chevy diesel. Does anyone have technical data on the timing and Carb setup? My maintenance manual doesn't have very much detail. Any suggestions for my reassembly and adjusting tomorrow. This is my only hold up of being able to use my mv.
 

bcowanwheels

Member
490
2
18
Location
KINGSPORT, TN.
I,D RUN A COMPRESSION TEST AND PULL THE VALVE cover to inspect the cam lobes. most of these engines still have the "rubber" oil line into the back of the cyl. head. the line swells shut or cracks open and then the head suffers from lack of engine oil and as a result wears the moving parts of the head out from my experiencewith them.
 
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