M809-series: Coolant Fiter Install

[MyothersanM1]

I decided to install a coolant filter on my M818. I had a heater which I never use out here in the South of California. I removed it lending to a vast amount of space on the right hand side of the engine compartment.

I bought a Lubefiner LWHB4861 Coolant Filter Mounting Base. The forward heater mounting plate bracket makes a great platform for attaching the filter mounting base. I cut, modified and drilled a scrap length of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle to mount the base to the heater bracket.



I used the same ports that supply the heater; water manifold for supply and oil cooler housing for return. A reducing bushing 3/4"NPT to 1/2"NPT was used on the oil cooler housing and 1/2"NPT X 1" nipple on the water manifold. Two 1/2" ball valves to shut off coolant flow when changing the filter were installed. I used 5/8" heater hose, two 1/2"NPT X 5/8" Hose barbed elbows (at ball valves) and two 3/8"NPT X 5/8" Hose barbed elbows (at filter base) to transmit coolant to and from the filter. Simple worm-drive type hose clamps seal the hose to the fittings.



Parts list:
Lubefiner LWHB4861 Coolant Filter Mounting Base
Baldwin B5134 Coolant Filter
Brass Ball Valve, 1/2"NPT Female X 2
1/2"NPT (Male) X 5/8" Hose Barbed Elbow X 2
3/8"NPT (Male) X 5/8" Hose Barbed Elbow X 2
3/4"NPT (Male) to 1/2"NPT (Female) Reducing Bushing X 1
1/2"NPT X !" Pipe Nipple X 1
5/8"ID Heater Hose, Approx. 3-4 ft.

I then did a complete flush and refill of the system with Fleetguard ES Compleat Extended Life Anti-freeze/Coolant and distilled water. The coolant is pre-charged, so I opted for a standard filter with no chemicals.



I used these two threads for guidance in my install
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?158779-Cololant-Additive-Filter-Typel-and-Water-Flow-Question
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?141802-Coolant-filter-setup

 

[74M35A2]

Knarly.

Engine makers typically won't put that much weight hanging off an elbow due to vibration. Especially with brass, either. But for how little we drive these, it should be fine. You could go to an iron elbow and reducer bushing if you wanted to up the strength and keep the brass ball valve. Or ball valve in line, and the 90 coming out of it would be even better.

I'm not trying to be a toolbox. I have seen one break, somebody hung an oil pressure sender off an extension pipe, and it cracked off, and blew the engine. That is the only reason I think about this stuff now.

You're fine, just leave it.