M813 wheel studs.

[Rene M]

I found that my front axle wheel studs are all shorter than my rear diff ones?
Any reason why?
I have Hemmit rims but the front studs are to short to mount them. This is not the case in the rear? Any idea on what studs i should be using..lol

 

[5tondeuce]

Hi RENE M,
To my knowledge everyone that is running hemit rims on there 5tons
are using thimbles , or inner wheel nuts. These are the ones that hold your outer wheel on the rear. I bought 60 longer than stock ones at napa for my m818.
the part number for the left side is: WEP07896L and the right side WEP07896R. They ran about $2.85 each. Hope this helps.
P.S. I don't think there is enough stud sticking out on the front or back to safely mount the thick hemit wheels. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Chris

 

[Hammer]

Get an extra set of the bud cap setups like you have on the rears.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Whatever you do, if a guy named Westech comes along and offers advice, IGNORE HIM. He can't even get 813 lugnuts off a truck! Follow the other folks advice!

 

[drgreg]

Truck Studs and Nuts from RyderFleetProducts
A good source.

 

[MASIC]

go to a kenworth dealership and ask for their older style wheel studs. They have a longer spline section on them and the threads are longer by 3/4". I had to change mine after i broke the inner face of my hemit wheels. usung bud nuts does not allow the rim to sit against the face of the hub. do it right or at least remember i warned you. pm me if you need the part number. its been a while since ive ordered these ans need to go through my paper work.

 

[73m819]

. usung bud nuts does not allow the rim to sit against the face of the hub.[/QUOTE]

He has a GOOD point, the bud nuts will allow the center of the rim to FLEX and in time crack, I had not fhought of this till his post

 

[eldgenb]

. usung bud nuts does not allow the rim to sit against the face of the hub.

He has a GOOD point, the bud nuts will allow the center of the rim to FLEX and in time crack, I had not fhought of this till his post[/QUOTE]


how do you figure? the hemtt wheels are beveled on both side so it can be mounted dish in or dish out. When you use the buds on the rear the duals fit together flush, what makes you think that the front would be any different?

 

[73m819]

" what makes you think that the front would be any different? "

the bud nuts are designed to set into the inner rim and the outer rim so when the two rims are together there isn't any space between the rim centers, pulling them TIGHT together, the front hub does NOT have the set in for the BACK SIDE of the buds, thus off setting the rim out a bit, so the ONLY contact with the hub is the bud, this will allow the center to flex a bit. i was looking for a extra bud nut to take a pic, but of course when I need one cant find it.

The trick here would be to machine the back side of the bud so it is flush with the rim, thus getting rid of the space between the hub and the rim, now the BIG question is??? is this easier and cheaper then pulling hubs to put the right studs in or is it cheaper to pull hubs and buy new studs then machine ?????????

 

[DaveP]

when I put the 1600's on my 819 I went with longer studs. The thing is way to heavy to chance haveing a assy come off. not to mention where the assembly might end up!

 

[gimpyrobb]

I'll tell you what, I have 395s on my deuce with stock rims. That combination rubs the drag link on hard right turns. I decided to put bud caps on before the rim to try and space the rim/tire out a bit from the drag link. I ended up snapping 4 wheel studs and cracked/bent the rim to heck. This of course was at night, in very cold weather, and I had to call for help to a member that was at his daughter's birthday party. Make sure the wheels are indeed seated against the hub!

 

[eldgenb]

" what makes you think that the front would be any different? "

the bud nuts are designed to set into the inner rim and the outer rim so when the two rims are together there isn't any space between the rim centers, pulling them TIGHT together, the front hub does NOT have the set in for the BACK SIDE of the buds, thus off setting the rim out a bit, so the ONLY contact with the hub is the bud, this will allow the center to flex a bit. i was looking for a extra bud nut to take a pic, but of course when I need one cant find it.

The trick here would be to machine the back side of the bud so it is flush with the rim, thus getting rid of the space between the hub and the rim, now the BIG question is??? is this easier and cheaper then pulling hubs to put the right studs in or is it cheaper to pull hubs and buy new studs then machine ?????????

You are right, my bad, I would think that if you had access to a disk sander or belt sander you should be able to do it with the buds, at $3 a piece for the studs and the agony of dealing with 5 ton hardware I would try the buds first if it were me.

 

[73m819]

dont sand or grind the buds, will heat up the bud, have them turned down wet

 

[Hammer]

Add one more point, it seems that there are different bud nuts, where there is a different amount of off set for the duals. This makes the whole nut stick out further!
And to top that off, I had a mix and match set on mine!
I pulled the fronts off today and ground them down (the back beveled edge on each bud nut.)
Put the front tires back on, and it drives a BIT better now!
I will tackle the rear axles a bit later. Just the 20 bud nuts up front was enough for one afternoon.....

 

[Hammer]

Oh yeah, took a few photos.
You can see the material that needed to be removed!
And now how the nut sits up nice and FLUSH to the hub.

Glad I thought about all this and went and worked on it. I sure hope this really straightens up how the rear tires behave at speeds.

 

[Barneyszoo]

Do you run into the same prob using the heavy 5 ton rims instead of the hemmtt ones?

 

[Hammer]

I think the HEMTT rims are the only ones that are that thick, and need to use either a longer wheel stud, or bud nuts.

 

[73m819]

you went to be REAL CAREFUL about grinding and getting the buds hot, they will crack right behind the rim flair,

also if you grind, the finished product needs to be dead on SQUARE, other wise, when tightening down the bud, you will put a side pull ( load) on the stud which in time, with use, could cause cracking of the stud, right at the hub,
the hard part about getting it square is that the drive end is not always square, flat, ect, so its hard to get a starting point

 

[Hammer]

Oh yeah, I took it slow. That was why I was complaining about how LONG it took to grind just the 20 of them!
I never discolored the metal.
Plus I let them cool a lot, with air and water.

I need another wheel for my bench grinder before I do any more though. It wasn't new when I started, but it is a lot smaller now

 

[KsM715]

I got a ? for you guys. With the longer studs, dont they need to be larger in diameter? Is the bevel of the lug nut enough to hold the wheel in place?