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M923 won't start

Retiredwarhorses

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923 won't start, I get nothing when I turn key....no click nothing. Batteries are low low low...but I should get a click...jumped at starter and it turn slow...it almost appears to be bad neutral start switch, it's as if its in gear. I bypassed NSS..still same. Ign switch looks right, battery switch looks wrong though...1 of the ribbed wires is plugged in to a non ribbed plug...charging batteries now....any thoughts?
 

Scarecrow1

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This is not as uncommon as you may think. If you don't have a full charge are close to it it's a no go . Remove the jumpers and charge them one at a time until they at least have 12 volts running in each one. You have to remember this is a 24 volt starter so it does take considerable voltage to turn it over. Even in a 12 volt system it takes 9 of the 12 volts to turn over and start a normal car. These aren't normal :) Charge and then try to check the voltage with a test meter if you have the volts then start back tracking your wiring . Good luck .........
 

73m819

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Check the starter solenoid, I think its in the protective control box.
It is MOUNTED on the starter, the starting CONTROL solenoid is in the PCB,

The proplem is the LOW batteries
 
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Retiredwarhorses

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No go, 3 days of charging and can't get them above 11.5v, does anyone have a wire harness schematic?
i know some stuff under the dash is wired wrong....as the dash had been off in the past.
is it possible with nothing, not even a click when key turned its the PCB?
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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No go, 3 days of charging and can't get them above 11.5v, does anyone have a wire harness schematic?
i know some stuff under the dash is wired wrong....as the dash had been off in the past.
is it possible with nothing, not even a click when key turned its the PCB?
If this is the case, you might "think" about another set of batteries
 

juanprado

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assuming you disconnected all 4 batteries and you were charging them individually with a 12v charger, Ron is correct you have 4 lead paperweights. 11.5 volts might start a 6v vw but that is a 12v dead battery for the scrapper :-(
 

emr

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Change the batteries, they are dead. and you do not need to disconnect anything when charging them individually, You really need to read a ton an batt posts on this site, good luck.
 

autoshopteacher

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Agree with all of the above ref batteries. Batteries provide "pressure" = volts and "volume" = amps. You can have correct voltage without correct amps available. They will pass a voltmeter check and not even click a solenoid, and one guilty battery will cause the failure. (experience here and a $75 tow start.) All reliable. electrical troubleshooting should start with fully charged batteries (12.5 VDC or higher, open circuit, clean tight connections) that also pass a load test.
 

Karl kostman

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I had a very similar issue with my 5 ton and finally LOAD TESTED the batteries, JUNK 2 out of 4 were JUNK, dumped the two bad ones and ran off the other two for a few months then installed two brand new CAT batteries and all is back to roses!
KK
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Been raining...and stuck in the shop on more important stuff. I know I need to replace the batteries, they are dated 06, best I have ever done on a set of 6TL's was about 6 yrs.....actually better then my Optimas.
i will start with just 2 to get her started....when I get around to it.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Disconnected all the batteries, jumped from my hmmwv, and jumped the starter....she fired right up!
so bad batteries and still something wired wrong....can anyone tell me what leads go to the battery and start switch?
no turn signals...and lights either, there is no cannon plug on the flasher relay....nor is there a cannon plug either.
maybe a bad 3 lever switch....the marker lights are on.
 

Artisan

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The wiring Schematic is in TM...23-5 Pg-611+ Remember there is a 569 wire and a GRD A and a #68 wire that connect to batteries as well. My understanding is if the 569 wire is not connected you will have no low speed heater fan. The GRD and #68 wires I believe go straight to the Diagnostic Connector so I "think" if they are not connected you are "ok" . I am in Monrovia, CA
 

doghead

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There is a schematic in the back of the TM.

TM 9-2320-272-24-4
 
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patracy

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No T&M's yet.....what I need is the wire number for the battery switch and start switch...the dash has been effed with.
In the TM.

Or download the 939 program and have them all on your computer. I worked on my 931 harness today. Super easy to trace things down with the app running.
 
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