M923a2 Battery issue

[RedBlok]

Hey Guys

I was to planning on driving my Truck back from a mountain property I keep it on (215 miles away) only to have dead batteries.

About my truck, I have two solargizers and I last started the truck 6 weeks ago. I tried to start it on Sunday and it would not start. No power to anything. I have a keyed battery disconnect and the system was shut off when I left the truck six weeks ago. On Sunday, the truck was in the shade and the solar panels were not getting enough light (I know because the status lights were not on, but this morning (Monday) when I checked them the status lights were on and the sun was shining on them.) The truck has survived two very cold winters down there and I have run the truck once a month without problems. Today I check all the connections, even by-passed the battery disconnector. I verified all the wires were connected and intact. Re-tightened all the connections. When I last ran it 6 weeks ago, I was in the green on voltage. Today I did not have access to a battery tester so I can't test the batteries. One bright spot was today when I checked the truck, I did notice when the battery disconnect was turned on and the power switch was moved to the on position, a couple of the gauges moved and the ABS flashed.

Looks like I will be buying a battery tester and heading back down there to test them. Hopefully I the batteries are all good, U6TL's are pretty expensive. If I do need to replace them, I was thinking about using Interstate series 31's as a possible replacement. Any thoughts?

Yes - I have been searching the forum for answers all last night and today, and found various and differing answers hence why I am asking.

Also - If I were to get her jumped and one of the batteries is dead, will it ruin the generator/alternator to run the truck for any distance? Have read various opinions.

One last question - as a temporary transport solution, Could I just remove the current batteries, wire in two batteries with 850cca in 24 volt, so I can get her off the mountain and to my house (which has tools and power)?

Thanks - Feeling SOL

RedBlok

 

[brasco]

I think the easiest, and least risky, path would be to replace with 2 new batteries big enough to crank it over... series 31 should do it. Just make sure that you figure out a way to hold the batteries in down.

As a data point, I had a similar issue on two different trucks. Both times, I simply slaved the the trucks and ran them with dead batteries with no issues. In my case, the batteries were dead and not holding a charge. You should probably make sure that the dead batteries are not damaged in some way that would lead to excessive current flow or overheating... of course, you experience my be different than mine.

 

[Karl kostman]

redblok if you had a solargizer on the batteries and all was hooked up correctly I am going to say your existing batteries are toast. I would do like Brasco said and get rid of all 4 of your existing batteries and replace them with two good ones, the 850 CCA you mentioned should do great, get the truck back home and you need to get the old batteries fully charged and take a voltage reading on them, if they read 12 volts or higher that is step one. Step 2 is you will absolutely want to LOAD TEST them and if you had them fully charged and even if you got a 12 volt or higher reading out of them when charged I would bet they are going to fail miserably on the load test! It has been my experience in the past you can screw around with batteries for as long as you want (and I have done plenty of that) but when its all over and done and while you still have a few hairs left on your head get rid of the 4 old ones and replace them all with two known GOOD batteries and your problems will be gone! Good luck with this but I would bet this solution will brighten your day!
Karl

 

[Scrounger]

If you have 6TL wet batteries they self-discharge about 4.4% every month. So it wouldn’t take much to have them discharge enough to have a problem, even with [FONT=&quot]Solargizers[/FONT]. The alternator in these trucks, unlike most cars and lite trucks have 100% duty cycle alternators. As long as none of the batteries are shorted out (sulfated), if you can get it started, driving it home with the batteries needing charged shouldn’t be a problem. I would make sure they are not low on electrolyte, check them with a good quality battery tester, I use a Midtronics MDX-300 tester, and drive it home. Once at the house charge them fully then put a load tester (50% CCA) on them. If they don’t hold at least 9.6 volts for 15 seconds then you will need to look into batteries. I find that around here it is worth keeping four 6TLs in the trucks. They can be had for around $150 each.

 

[RedBlok]

Thanks for all the responses. I think the plan is to get two series 31 batteries and get the truck off the mountain as everybody confirmed. I'll check, charge and test the batteries at home and sort out the living from the dead as suggested. I would like to keep four 6TLs in the truck and eventually move them outside of the cab to a battery box. It would be easier to service them. Also, I can make a jump box using the 31's and a slave cable.

Thanks

Rob

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Speaking from experience here...

Bring some batteries with you just in case but once there, I'd run a quick test before swapping heavy batteries 6" in the air. With the original batteries hooked up properly, check full system voltage to see what it is. If it's anywhere near what it should be then run the quick test below. If they are low, do a quick charge to bring them up.

Flip the power switch on the dash on and off repeatedly and see if your gauges come to life. If they don't, rap on the PCB box on the firewall with the power switch turned on and see if the gauges come to life. If they do come on, try to start the truck.

Sounds like one of two things is happening. Either your batteries are drained and there isn't enough power to operate the PCB, or the PCB is going out. Your mention of the gauges in the first post is a symptom of a failing PCB. I'd rule out the PCB, which is a known problem, before swapping batteries around given the amount of work involved. If your PCB is flakey, new batteries likely won't remedy the problem anyways.

 

[RedBlok]

Swamp Donkey - Thanks for the advice on checking the PCB box. Hopefully that is the issue and a rubber mallet will fix it. I really don't wan to swap out those batteries on a mountain side (no power on the mountain).

I'll post my findings next week - Thanks all.

 

[gottaluvit]

RedBlok: I know I have only had my M929A2 for a little over a month but we had a real joyful 4 hours unloading it off the trailer the day of arrival. The driver told me they just hooked up a jumper box to it and it fired right up. Not the case here with the truck blocking one lane of the county road in front of my house and my 86 civvy chevy pickup trying to jump it as well as the semi tractor driver trying with his (12v) rig blocking the other lane. I was initially puzzled to say the least at that wiring method on the batteries and finally a buddy came over and used two 12v jumper boxes hooked in series and we got the thing to fire right up.

So here was my long term fix: I disconnected all the wires connecting the batteries and tested each battery individually. Two had 9v and two had 3-4v. So I just canned the low voltage ones as I double checked them with hooking the battery charger up to them and the needle was bouncing off the peg. Looked shorted to me. The others two that had 9v looked normal when I hooked up the charger, with the needle high but not bouncing. So after the slow 48 hour charge on each good one I just hooked the them in series and rewired everything for just two and that engine zips over every time even with days to a week of not running. I realize you may be where there is no electricity but the meter check should tell you of at least two good ones that you can hook in series and then jump the truck and not worry about anything and should be well charged by the time you get it home.

Hope this helps,
Jim

 

[RedBlok]

Thanks Jim,

So I sourced a few parts. I found Interstate series 31 batteries (reconditioned) for $60 each not including the core charge of $25 each. I also found a midtronics PBT 300 for $217. I also sourced out a PCB box for $195 new (for the M923a2) and I have a rubber mallet at $0 cost. I think I am just going to buy the series 31s and the battery tester. I will wait on the PCB.

I am going to head to my place, test each battery, double check the PCB, if it starts cool. If not and the batteries are not dead, then I will try to jump start the truck with a pair of 31s in series. Hopefully the PCB is not an issue. If the batteries are dead, then I will pull the four 6TLs and put the 31's in place. I am going to try to keep them in place with some ratchet straps or something.

Once home I will charge all the batteries and test them. Hopefully they all test Ok

I also decided that with the extra 31's I am going to build a 24 volt jump box and use a slave cable. I am thinking I will make it a wheeled cart (with large enough wheels to roll in the dirt.) I will keep that on a trickle charger and take it with me whenever I go start the truck (insurance policy)

Thanks for all the help. I will let you all know how it works out.

I will take pictures of my boondoggle and adventure.

Rob

 

[RedBlok]

Good Thing Father's day is close by. This money was going to pay for my LED Light bar and backup camera.

 

[therooster2001]

Sorry to hear you're stuck. Reminder to those reading along. Solargizers are not battery chargers, and of course as Rob noted, they only work when in the sun. They just use the pulse technology that just prevents sulfation of the battery, which will kill the cell when too much builds up. I bet you can revive the batteries, but a good charger is going to be needed. Sounds like the reconditioned ones were a good deal. Just keep the others charged. I also do not trust any of those minders. They are supposed to keep the float on them, but I have had terrible luck with them on my motorcycles for whatever reason (probably the sulfation. Keep the batteries inside if you can during any non use, worked wonders when I did that. I did just get the Genius, which has the similar pulse as the solargizers, so I am hoping to extend the life as well from sulfation, but you need to keep those things charged as well. Remember that those guys in series are susceptible to the weakest link, so one dead cell or draining cell, and you won't get your juice. Batteries are frustrating sometimes!

 

[KaiserM109]

RE battery chargers, for my M923 I bought a Stanley 40 Amp charger and a 700 Watt generator so that I can go from dead batteries to running in 2 to 3 hours. I also built 4 18" jumpers from 8 guage wire and clips from an auto parts store. I disconnect one end of each short battery connector on the 2 pairs and connect them up in 12 volts parallel (I'd really love to have a 24 volt charger!!).

About running with a bad battery, it will be hard on your alternator. You can run with almost any pair of good 12 volt batteries after you get it started.

Be well, do good work and keep in touch.

 

[RedBlok]

Thanks for the additional advice. I picked up the reconditioned interstate series 31P (with posts) They tested each battery and they were putting out just over 1000 CCAs each.

I like the 700 watt generator ideal. That could be very hand. Just leave the generator and charger in the truck tool box (making sure to drain the fuel of course).

The adventure never ends

Rob

 

[KaiserM109]

See http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...-it-home/page2

 

[RedBlok]

Update June 14th. Thanks for all the great tips

1. PCB Box is in working condition
2. Tried jumping the truck with the two fresh 31's and almost turned her over. Melted my "Heavy Duty" Jumper cables in the process. The 31's were ok and still in good shape showing 13 volts and 1100 cca each
3. Disconnected each of the U6TL's and checked them with the battery tester - 3 totally dead batteries, the 4th had 6 volts in it.
4. Pulled the batteries, installed the 31's and she fired right up.
5. Drove her back to my house today. Drove 220 miles and 60 miles from home the CTIS system started acting up. All the CTIS lights were flashing, but just before all the lights started flashing, the system was making a really high pitched sound for about 30 seconds. I was able to get her home without any issues. Drained the air tanks and started her back up. Air Pressure builds up fine, now the CTIS does not light up at all. Another problem for another day.
6. The good news, I was averaging about 9-10 mpg running 55 mph most of the trip.

Glad to be home. It was hot as crap out today.

Thanks for all the help

 

[gottaluvit]

Glad you got it home. My ctis was all flashing with a low tire and I put it on run flat for a couple minutes and it aired up the low tire and then I put it on highway and it is good to go.

 

[jerry v]

napa truck parts has them I paid 650.00 for it works good