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M923A2 Doing 80 MPH!!

marchplumber

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If I wanted to go fast? A MV wouldn't be my choice. Like others have said, cause it will doesn't mean it should. One mistake, not necessarily yours, and someone is gonna probably pay the amount due, somewhere/somehow/and it probably won't be cheap.
 

peteybabes

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I sure don't want to cause trouble, it's not my intention, but the highways all around are bumping speed limits to 70, and at a certain point driving too much slower than the rest of traffic can pose a danger as well...

I know that I will be driving my truck 3 hours out of state to have work performed on it at some point so maybe I should stay at 60?
 

98G

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I'm just going off of the spec for "HWY" mode on the CTIS system... I believe it is 80 up front and 60 in the rear?

I don't do a whole lot of highway at all, but am considering moving up to the 16.00x20.00 Michelin that is 53" tall. If I buy new "virgin" tires do you think that they can handle 70?
When this happens at 50mph you might pinch a hole in the seat cushion.

Do you really want to try it at 70 mph?

The liability will be inescapable. So you're in the interstate with a posted speed limit of 75, and you're going 70ish, and your tire blows and a goodsized chunk of tread goes through someone's windshield and kills them. The estate sues, their lawyer checks the specs on your tires, and you were over. Further, if someone is reasonably competent they can prove that you knew it beforehand and did it anyway....

If having it on your conscience isn't sufficient to deter you, the legal liability should.

Your life is yours to risk as you see fit, but you owe it to those around you to take reasonable precautions with their lives.
 

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98G

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I'm just going off of the spec for "HWY" mode on the CTIS system... I believe it is 80 up front and 60 in the rear?
55psi all the way around in hwy mode on your M923A2.... unless the CTIS has been tampered with.

The place to ask if new 16.00R20s can handle 70 mph is the manufacturer. They have anticipated the question and have already provided the answer - No. They rate them 55mph.

Do you really plan to spend $1800 per tire to obtain new production 16s?

Or do you mean 100% tread with date codes from 2010 or so...? Those are not the same...
 

peteybabes

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I will just be sure to keep around 60 max, I guess the only real way to go faster safely is if you install semi truck duals and tires which would look hideous and be uses off road. Lol
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
When this happens at 50mph you might pinch a hole in the seat cushion.

Do you really want to try it at 70 mph?

The liability will be inescapable. So you're in the interstate with a posted speed limit of 75, and you're going 70ish, and your tire blows and a goodsized chunk of tread goes through someone's windshield and kills them. The estate sues, their lawyer checks the specs on your tires, and you were over. Further, if someone is reasonably competent they can prove that you knew it beforehand and did it anyway....

If having it on your conscience isn't sufficient to deter you, the legal liability should.

Your life is yours to risk as you see fit, but you owe it to those around you to take reasonable precautions with their lives.
Thanks for sharing that photo. That was a goodyear, right? That's what I am running and I always picture that in my mind happening up front. That is what keeps my speed low! Again, thank you.
 

Special T

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I know here in Washington state any commercial type vehicle is required to do 60mph In 70 zones.

Blow outs like in that picture generally are do to a seperation causing the big BOOM! Weight, speed, travel duration, Psi and asphault temp are the big factors in causing a blow out. Heat is the enemy so you can get away with a certain ammont of opperating outside the spec if you minimize heat. I would NOT take a 3 hour drive at 70mph on 40psi with outside temps above 90 deg.
 

peteybabes

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55psi all the way around in hwy mode on your M923A2.... unless the CTIS has been tampered with.

The place to ask if new 16.00R20s can handle 70 mph is the manufacturer. They have anticipated the question and have already provided the answer - No. They rate them 55mph.

Do you really plan to spend $1800 per tire to obtain new production 16s?

Or do you mean 100% tread with date codes from 2010 or so...? Those are not the same...
I should have been clearer. C&C out of Indiana has "new" as in unused 16.00x20.00 for $550 per mounted tire and rim and will trade my mounted 14.00x20.00 for $300 each. My total investment being $250/tire...
 

gringeltaube

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..........am considering moving up to the 16.00x20.00 Michelin that is 53" tall. If I buy new "virgin" tires do you think that they can handle 70?
The tires maybe... but can you...?
After all your mods, would your stopping distance remain the same or even less than stock, from 55 mph down to zero? NO!


G.
 

peteybabes

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Thanks for all the input guys. You agree the best! :D

I'm new to MV's and want to buy more and certainly don't want to take away our privileges...

I will upgrade my tires to the newest rubber I can get and I am a Michelin guy anyways, and then try to drive sanely ;)
 

tobyS

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Going to a larger balloon is unlikely to give you greater control at high speed. Don't waste your money.
 

98G

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Thanks for sharing that photo. That was a goodyear, right? That's what I am running and I always picture that in my mind happening up front. That is what keeps my speed low! Again, thank you.
It was a michelin. Plenty of tread left on it. 55psi. About 50mph. No warning, just BANG and the truck tried to slew sideways. There was no oncoming traffic so I used the oncoming lane to do slow correction and get it to the shoulder.

I had a goodyear with about 70% tread and a 2010 Date code do the same thing, right front. Speed was 55-60mph on the interstate. That one was actually easier to control than the rear.
 

98G

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Going to a larger balloon is unlikely to give you greater control at high speed. Don't waste your money.
I presume he is looking for a higher top speed. And is willing to have the tires hit the bed at full articulation. And is willing to have the left front rub the control arm - he didn't mention changing to hemtt rims.
 

peteybabes

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I presume he is looking for a higher top speed. And is willing to have the tires hit the bed at full articulation. And is willing to have the left front rub the control arm - he didn't mention changing to hemtt rims.
You are right. I don't do the extreme offloading that some guys do here. I did a pond 6 times and on my final pass the truck got bogged for 5 days until I could get it pulled out. I'm a newbie.

Is there even anything I van do to improve turning radius even with 14.00's?
 

98G

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I should have been clearer. C&C out of Indiana has "new" as in unused 16.00x20.00 for $550 per mounted tire and rim and will trade my mounted 14.00x20.00 for $300 each. My total investment being $250/tire...

I haven't looked, but I suspect they are michelin XL tires. I would not use those on the steer axle at any speed.....
 

tobyS

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Safety had better matter to you more. It is not a cross country/highway truck (not to say one cannot be built).

You have very little idea of the damage you could do with one of these at 60-70. Do you see a roll bar for example?
 

98G

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Someone here has in the signature line - "I've never had so much fun driving so slow." For me, that really sums it up.

If you want to go fast, get a charger SRT8. 0-60 rigjt around 5sec, quarter mile in the 12s, pulls like that all the way to 180mph..and it'll stop from 100mph faster than these trucks will stop from 30.

If you want the best bang for the buck, spend $10k on a liter class sportbike. 0-60 under 3sec, 0-150 in under 10sec, top speeds electronically limited to 186. And will go 0-100-0 in less time than a C6 corvette will go 0-100.

Enjoy your truck. Use it for what it's made to do best - pull heavy loads and haul heavy loads in the worst terrain and the worst conditions. If you have to make a long highway trip, run along in the right lane at around 60mph...
 
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