M925a2 1988

[3up]

So this motor looks different from the 934 i was going to buy they both say 8.3 and both are turbocharged. So whats the deal ?

 

[simp5782]

So this motor looks different from the 934 i was going to buy they both say 8.3 and both are turbocharged. So whats the deal ?

Well what's the motor look like?

 

[3up]

 

[3up]

Is it the faster one??

 

[simp5782]

That's just an 8.3. There is a difference in appearance than the one you have?

 

[3up]

No thats mine. Let me see if I can find a picture of the one I was going to get

 

[3up]

Ok im having s hard time finding the 925 a2 spreadsheet to print off.

 

[3up]

The one with part numbers if there is more than one.

 

[Mullaney]

The one with part numbers if there is more than one.

.
Here is the link to the regularly updated and maintained 5-Ton Parts spreadsheet:

M915 Series Trucks Quick Parts Spreadsheet

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hmbUQuMi5MmXIomIh82J5lc8vKp0RvZ4qcz7zcwPMYc/edit?usp=sharing Please PM me with any additions so it is not pages of parts and the link is hard to find. I am still working on this. I have about 4 pages of part numbers to run. Mod can you please make a...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[simp5782]

.
Here is the link to the regularly updated and maintained 5-Ton Parts spreadsheet:

M915 Series Trucks Quick Parts Spreadsheet

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hmbUQuMi5MmXIomIh82J5lc8vKp0RvZ4qcz7zcwPMYc/edit?usp=sharing Please PM me with any additions so it is not pages of parts and the link is hard to find. I am still working on this. I have about 4 pages of part numbers to run. Mod can you please make a...

www.steelsoldiers.com

That is for the 915 series trucks

 

[simp5782]

The one with part numbers if there is more than one.

Go to the bottom of the spreadsheet it says m939A2 only. Those parts listed there are different from a basic m939 and a1 version AND ARE THE ONLY DIFFERENT PARTS on the truck

The parts from the whole spreadsheet unless noted as a difference for A2 only fits all the base models and sub models Including A1s and A2s

 

[3up]

Got my new alternator from 74m35A2 But i have an exhaust leak at the head so figured i would fix that while alternator is out but, first manifold bolt broke off so since the whole thing will come off With most likely 12 new Heli coils i figured I would just get a new manifold since this one is really rusty. Is the KMP brand any good? Half the price of a an oem one. I know you get what you pay for but there must be some decent aftermarket stuff out there.

 

[simp5782]

Got my new alternator from 74m35A2 But i have an exhaust leak at the head so figured i would fix that while alternator is out but, first manifold bolt broke off so since the whole thing will come off With most likely 12 new Heli coils i figured I would just get a new manifold since this one is really rusty. Is the KMP brand any good? Half the price of a an oem one. I know you get what you pay for but there must be some decent aftermarket stuff out there.

They are just going to get rusty anyway. You can send yours to a machine shop to get shockpinged.

Get a magnetic induction heater. Every bolt will come right out

 

[3up]

Ok i have seen videos on those i will look into getting one

 

[simp5782]

You can get your manifold shock pinged then use Eastman ceramic coating. It'll handle 1400 degrees.

 

[3up]

Then it will look new at least great idea and i wont have to wait to get one thanks

 

[charlesmann]

Iv seen heavily rusted items put into evaporust and using a cart style battery charger ( https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBC90156?impressionRank=2 ) and sacrificial piece of steel with the + terminal clipped to it, suspended in the solution and the - terminal clipped to the rusted work piece. Turn the charger on low amp charge and let it work. The process must be done outside due to the fumes coming off, but after a few hrs (4-6) 98% of the heavy rust is gone.

Shot peening will help relieve stress built up in manifold and clean off any remaining corrosion.

If the bolts broke even with the head, you can use a thick washer for the bolt size, using a mig, build up the weld and of course weld to the washer. Then use a nut 1-2 sizes up from the bolt size, place of the first weld build up, finish building up the weld on the inside of the nut, then weld the outside of the nut to the washer.
Then slowly try working the bolt out of the head, being sure to take your time and work in the loosening and tightening direction a lil at a time.
The above is if you arent good at center drilling the broken bolt/stud, which is me, so i used the above method and have had great success.

 

[simp5782]

You can use a spring door hinge drill bit to center as well

Leave the manifold off and let the truck run for a bit to get the head hot before removing it

 

[3up]

Thanks guys, the induction tool will be here tomorrow, so i should be able to get the rest out without breaking them. The broken one i can get the heater all the way over it by how the head is made so i thinking i can easy out it after heating it.
I'm in a bit of a hurry I'm heading to family xmas in SF. Im waiting for gaskets now, have new alt, get this fixed and change filters and oil and Im good to roll.

 

[Jbulach]

Can you post a picture of your broken bolt?

The rest of them you should be able to quickly warm the threaded ears on the cylinder head up one at a time with a torch without getting too much heat in the bolt, touch a candle to the threads to hopefully get some wax to wick back in them, then back them out, in and out easy, preferably before too much heat transfers to the bolts.