74M35A2
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Do you really expect proper behavior on a “Mine’s longer” post?
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M925A2 Trailer Made From M923A1 Truck
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74M35A2
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Here’s what I’m working with, shot 2 hours ago...
farmerboywyotech
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Fair enough!Do you really expect proper behavior on a “Mine’s longer” post?
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Yes. It's not-so-dry storage due to lid design. When I make a new lid to replace the damaged one I intend to make it a little more sealed. The airlines and light harness are attached inside the box. When unhooked they are stored inside the box and out of the weather.
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I think you need to keep the muffler mounted on there to keep everybody guessing, lol.
farmerboywyotech
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If you get discouraged id be more than happy to drive down there and take it off your hands!
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big block 88
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Wait.... thats all the further you have gotten on this project?!?!?
You dont even have the motor and trans mounted yet for driving thr trailers axles.
i would say run a shart A into a 5x5 heavy wall tube into the pintel.
You dont even have the motor and trans mounted yet for driving thr trailers axles.
i would say run a shart A into a 5x5 heavy wall tube into the pintel.
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74M35A2
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The muffler? Ummmm, ok.If you get discouraged id be more than happy to drive down there and take it off your hands!
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big block 88
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All about heat control sir...
to my knowledge (which isnt much) im under the impression the 5 ton frame is not high temper, at least not to the point of over the road trucks.
Id be curious to know what its make up is though if some one knows.
If it is hugh temper it CAN be done effectively and safely with heat control. Pre heat weld watch temps keep them below 500-900 depending on make up of base metal. And post hear or blanket the welds to have it cool slowly.
to my knowledge (which isnt much) im under the impression the 5 ton frame is not high temper, at least not to the point of over the road trucks.
Id be curious to know what its make up is though if some one knows.
If it is hugh temper it CAN be done effectively and safely with heat control. Pre heat weld watch temps keep them below 500-900 depending on make up of base metal. And post hear or blanket the welds to have it cool slowly.
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farmerboywyotech
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big block 88
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Toby and i have had more than one discussion regaurding welding parameters and process.
big block 88
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Weld on chassis all the time. Just remember whats done on one side must be done on the other. Thats why this crack did not get fish plated, the other side of the frame was fine still. The truck dumped on heavy side sloap and fell over cracking the frame. Also was a double frame which we all know is prone to rust swell. So by the time i got done cutting out the crack for a full pin we went from a 6" crack to about 26" crack.
Kept my temps in check and let her cool with blankets on.
Kept my temps in check and let her cool with blankets on.
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farmerboywyotech
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Im debating how to not sound like a dick. I feel like everybody likes to over complicate things on here. Ive found that either you can weld or you cant. My theory is when in doubt over build it. Ive seen what happens when the tongue on a dump trailer breaks off. Had over 40 tons of snaplage on it. Folded like a pretzel.
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I think it can be done but as always is about 2x or more the work we expect and it's easy to start cutting corners (those temporary fixes that become permanent). Making a policy to have significant safety margins may seem to complicate.
Most of my work is for others as a sole proprietor. I have no corporate shield and have way too much to loose to take a chance on a negligent liability claim. There is an army of hungry liability attorneys to take everything one has accumulated or will accumulate, in case of a failure. What you may call complicated, I see as safety factor.
Re turning, I was referring to backing up and jack knifing the trailer. More than once the 1061 was about into my tire (just over 45*) because of the short A frame.
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big block 88
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That crack was a nasty girl.
I would be interested to know what the hardened rating is on these trucks. I was hoping one of you fellas would know.
That crack was on a otr dump truck that had been through ell and back. Crack was 1/4" wide and by the time i found sound metal we were over 1.5". Being a double frame theres no room for a backer plate short of pulling the outer frame rail off. I dont have the facilities for that. So its stack welds in and up till the meet then grind your tie in and re weld it.
Typically a weld would be ground flush but on that old ugly truck it just needed to hide the weld under rubberized undercoating so minimal grinding saved some labor on his bill.
sorry back in topic. The bumperets hae to go for sure so good call there. I have jacked mine up pulling a 20ton equip tailer. I was hitting the bumperets around 30* so manuvering sucked. But the owner didnt want to wait for me to adjust the trailers hieght to be slightly nose down thus letting the a frame clear under the bumpers. His trailer so i let him deal with the damage.
I would be interested to know what the hardened rating is on these trucks. I was hoping one of you fellas would know.
That crack was on a otr dump truck that had been through ell and back. Crack was 1/4" wide and by the time i found sound metal we were over 1.5". Being a double frame theres no room for a backer plate short of pulling the outer frame rail off. I dont have the facilities for that. So its stack welds in and up till the meet then grind your tie in and re weld it.
Typically a weld would be ground flush but on that old ugly truck it just needed to hide the weld under rubberized undercoating so minimal grinding saved some labor on his bill.
sorry back in topic. The bumperets hae to go for sure so good call there. I have jacked mine up pulling a 20ton equip tailer. I was hitting the bumperets around 30* so manuvering sucked. But the owner didnt want to wait for me to adjust the trailers hieght to be slightly nose down thus letting the a frame clear under the bumpers. His trailer so i let him deal with the damage.
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I would imagine you put 6011 in that???
Have you welded on a 5 ton frame yet? Did you use 7018 or 9018? I think the high chrome content helps, but I have not welded directly to the frame of one. A 7018 3/32 could run a couple passes down inside the root and not get too hot, I would think.
Have you welded on a 5 ton frame yet? Did you use 7018 or 9018? I think the high chrome content helps, but I have not welded directly to the frame of one. A 7018 3/32 could run a couple passes down inside the root and not get too hot, I would think.
big block 88
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I run almost exclusively 7018. On that cracked dumper bed i used some stuff i cant remember its name off the too of my head but it is an X series rod has a red flux and hates moisture.
I have not welded structurally on 5 ton frames just hanging accessories like extra tanks and tore chain racks. but have plenty of deuces and never had an issue. But the deuce frames are much older and who knows what the treatment if any those frames have.
Speaking to an old timer in regaurds to doing old/older truck frames with higher mileage and use those frames dont seem to care much no matter the temper in them. He claims the temper has long left the metal at that point. If thats true i dont know. Ive never had a frame come back from a repaired crack or growing crack that was welded or even parameter cracking that you can see in high temper and cast welds.
in my opinion you are 100% correct on the high chrome content. When im teaching a young fella or someone new to tempered steel welding, i say its best to treat it like chromoly welding. Temp is CRITICAL both heating and cooling. Pre heat slow watch temps while welding and cool painfully slow.
Ever come accross HardOx before? Cat uses it as wear pads and wear bars on high abrasion buckets. Thats the most hardened crap ive ever tried to weld to mild steel. Short of 100k mig its about the only thing that will make a pretty weld.
I have not welded structurally on 5 ton frames just hanging accessories like extra tanks and tore chain racks. but have plenty of deuces and never had an issue. But the deuce frames are much older and who knows what the treatment if any those frames have.
Speaking to an old timer in regaurds to doing old/older truck frames with higher mileage and use those frames dont seem to care much no matter the temper in them. He claims the temper has long left the metal at that point. If thats true i dont know. Ive never had a frame come back from a repaired crack or growing crack that was welded or even parameter cracking that you can see in high temper and cast welds.
in my opinion you are 100% correct on the high chrome content. When im teaching a young fella or someone new to tempered steel welding, i say its best to treat it like chromoly welding. Temp is CRITICAL both heating and cooling. Pre heat slow watch temps while welding and cool painfully slow.
Ever come accross HardOx before? Cat uses it as wear pads and wear bars on high abrasion buckets. Thats the most hardened crap ive ever tried to weld to mild steel. Short of 100k mig its about the only thing that will make a pretty weld.
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74M35A2
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I don’t think they are hardened. I think they are deliberately just mild steel, and not treated. Welding should be business as usual. OTR truck frame does not need to flex with articulation and such.