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M939 CTIS Reprogram, Anybody Done It?

therooster2001

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Hmm, little a and N. Crap, might have to do a diagnostic that works on either. I wonder if the old eaton's are 1708 and the newer DANA is 1939. I'll crack my Eaton, but probably not rip it all down. I was at the shop today and couldn't inventory the other ECU's to see if there were different models. Another day. I have a Sparkfun ODB that I got as a ding and dent sale, so that will make things a bit easier. It handles both protocols. Just have to wire it up. That jelly is awful. Is it gritty or goopy?
 

therooster2001

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Ok, I couldn't wait. Here's mine. I totally dig the board that matches up to the pins on the amphenol, I think I need to bust out my Eagle skills and make one. The screws on the button plate started to strip so I stopped there. Exciting! I grabbed a couple more Picts, but photostream is not cooperating. When I was at the shop, one of the back tires had decided to deflate to 10 psi in two weeks. It never had a problem before, either I ran over something or the cold loosened a nut. Inflated it, and heard nothing. Since it's so cold, decided not to ice up the tire spraying it with water. For another day...

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aleigh

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Yours is much different inside, which is interesting in and of itself. The daughter board for the connector is really nice - that part looks similar. I wouldn't mine one of those that went to a header of some kind. I don't know how closely you looked at yours but on mine that was the board it looked like they had integrated the protection into (a field of diode/fuses/somethings).

At least on mine, removing the trim panel (4 cap screws) for the buttons gets you nowhere. The entire button panel is just a sticker and if you rip that off, you just break it and expose the button contacts (I did it to mine). It's not serviceable which was a disappointment.

The jelly is crumbly and had the faintest smell of old attic (not old truck smell). It gives when you press on it, it is not solid like a wax or an epoxy.

Not like it really matters other than curiosity but if you do pull your mainboard out, it looks like through-hole? Nearly every component on my board is SMC except for a couple of large caps and the power transistors. Maybe that was the difference, they revised mine (which is 6 years older right) into a single board surface mount solution.

Hopefully it'll warm up for 74M' and he'll have some good news on the NexIQ front.
 

therooster2001

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I see that yours had some big caps, and I do have some smc resistors, but ic spacing and the LED's are through hole. I have a mix, guess mine is newer? Your date code looked like '95, but maybe it's the 9th month.. Does anyone know? Might also be a dare on the board...only if you can get rid of that jelly...
 

74M35A2

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The one I took apart was exactly like above, no potting inside. Yes, I still owe everybody answers on the resistor(s) thing. Stay tuned...
 

therooster2001

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'97? That's **** near last years model. Maybe I missed it, how did you score that late of a model? 91 925a2 for me (not that it matters much, as everything should be interchangeable).
 

tennmogger

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This is an outstanding thread for CTIS enthusiasts.

I can add some part numbers:

Examining 6 different FMTV CTIS ECU's indicates part number 19207-12378682. One example had -002 appended but I failed to note the date on that one.

Two ECU's from M939 5 tons (that I got from BFR Metals) were part number 1902-20510685. Earlier comments about the guts looking different (I think a 5 ton compared to an LMTV) is probably reflected by different part numbers.

The unpotted ECU's were the 5 ton models, right? Those were earlier mfg, too, so the potting might be a later addition, especially for the FMTV.

Are there other part numbers out there?

Bob
WB4ETT
 
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therooster2001

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Most of the stuff from Glenn were the same 1902-20510685. I did get a Dana as well, and I grabbed a "wrecker" model on the Bay, which is most likely just a newer model number. I'll grab the numbers tomorrow.

I am still in for creating a harness, then having a side jack or imbedded Bluetooth so we could have an output to an LCD or to a phone. We'll see if the different models affect the performance or the protocols used. Stay tuned, just finishing up on several projects that took my time, like the MKT, which is a worth endeavor for time consumption. Going to make "uncle Buck" style pancakes on it tomorrow.
 
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aleigh

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Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
74m35a2 never got back to us with the word on the diagnostic pins... :< I've got all the arduino stuff and relay boards here to make up a from-scratch ECU, and my replacement CTIS parts (so far as I know I need them), but I am in the throws of moving back up to Washington so it's on hold until I get up there in a couple of weeks. I did write a bunch of the code though, at least enough to the point where now I need to put it in a truck. I had to make some educated guesses about how the pressure transducer works. Don't have an o-scope down here, but I can get at one back home.
 

therooster2001

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Well, I think it's time to dive back into this. I've read a lot of people recently disconnecting CTIS because it's too complex or "buggy". I think it's because we don't have cool diagnostics to help them understand what is going on. SO, I am going to go down this road for all of you CTIS fans (and I will win over those who aren't). Here's what I am going to do:

Goal #1: The goal will be to diagnose and display any CTIS system, with the first focus on the M939's, and I think the LMTV's will be an easy second (if they are the same) on an LCD type screen or a smartphone.
Goal #2: Have them all work with this solution. Not just mine.There are different versions of ECU's.
Goal #3: Not be hardwired. I want to be able to take this off and on, not permanently modify it. aleigh has a different route than me (see earlier). Expect the first version to be VERY hardwired.
Goal #4: Target is to make this for less than $100, and more like $50 in the final end product. I bet the bulk of the cost will be the harness. ** I just pulled these numbers out of my butt, but I'd pay $100 for a diagnostic and visual CTIS indicator besides 5 lights.

My thoughts:
I am doing this for my own personal achievement, but a donation to the group. I love CTIS, and I think it's underrated. I will prove that.
I will document as much as possible on here to help out those who might build or "fork" this development. It's not mine to own.
I will not be asking for money for my time or parts, but maybe the developer, but do want some encouragement, and a couple of testers. And beer, whiskey or chicks, or all three.
Once this is gold, I might sell some finished products to cover all my costs and to fund more iron, but I'm not going into business here.
Why iPhone app first? I have one. I don't do Android. Maybe a smart dude on here can port it.
I will start a new thread, but reference this one.


Disclaimer:
I will not be held responsible if I fry someone's CTIS. I might do it to mine by accident trying this stuff, that would suck, but that's life.
It will not be an immediate project. Chips come from China, boards take weeks to build. I have a real job, a wife and other hobbies. I get bored sometimes too..
I will not ask for money in early development, but I may ask for ECU's. I will ask for help. There are some smart mofo's on here like aleigh, 74M35A2 and others who have started this, or are smart on the protocols.
This might be all for naught. This might just be another idiot light for your vehicle. Your tires might still deflate and you won't know why.
Think of this like a kickstarter before the cool San Francisco web site and marketing, the money and the wait (well, we will wait too).

Phases of development:
Phase 1: GHETTO style, alpha version connection from the ECU to a diagnostic LCD screen. Will need to fabricate the Y-Harness or just do it internally to the pins for now (super easy). This is basically an interpreter that will diagnose the CTIS codes, and give you some indication of what the ECU is doing. Think of this like a 'what am I doing now' display. Biggest challenge will be to get the thing talking. Do we need a termination resistor? We'll see..
Phase 2: Port to Apple phone via bluetooth or wifi. This will be a pretty visual app and I will probably have to farm this out to a developer that has skills. Might need some funds to pay him.
Phase 2.5: Probably a revamp of the harness. We'll learn a bunch while we go. Micro-Ize the whole thing, probably a redo of the board since I know what is finally needed. I will show off my mad Eagle PCB making skills and then fire up the 3D printer for the prototype case.
Phase 3: Get a real case, paint it OD. Maybe muck with the LCD screen and the Apple app.
Phase 3.5: Port to Android

Let me know what you all think.
 

aleigh

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Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
Let us know when you figure out the signalling on the pressure transducer (not the pressure switch, the other one). I'm in the process of getting a new controller in so I can put a scope on it, but if you figure it out you'll save me the trouble.
 

99nouns

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Wow seesms like I revived a sleeping monster, theRooster, what you are rolling your sleeves for sounts too good to be true, at the end army might even hire you if you pull this off. Good luck and we all behind you...
 

Suprman

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Stratford/Connecticut
I have another thread going it has the ctis 90psi wrecker upgrade info and part numbers of the
newest ecu. The newest model should have interface capability similiar to the lmtv.
 
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