M939A2 5 Ton 6TN 6TL Battery Replacement

[BOXBUILDER6971]

Yes, This is what I am talking about. VPeD, Thank you for the helpful information. I did look at car batteries ( Group 31 and 24 ) before I started. I was under the impression I need 4 batteries to start the truck in the cold. I am in Dalton, GA. Not very cold here most of the time. I should have done my homework better before I started. I was not worried about dry space. I have a M932A2 Tractor. I removed the 5th wheel and ramps then raised a M105A2 trailer bed 10" above the frame. I used 10" channel iron and welded angle iron to bolt to the factory angle iron on the frame. The frame of the truck and the trailer are 34" wide. I used the same channel on the front. So now I have 34" wide 10" high and 9'2" of dry storage under my bed. Plus this gives me room for the tires to articulate. I may start a new post showing how I done this. If I do i will ad a link to this to show.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-pick-Up-Transformation&p=1842546#post1842546

If anyone wants to see how I transformed my truck.

 

[Bandit02]

Using just 2 8D batteries would be short lived? If I was using the same alternator I would agree since the original one had a voltage regulator that was set to work with Hawker batteries. I am not using that type of alternator again. Plus the use of the inverter is actually better to use the AGM type since it will handle the deeper discharge.
In your setup originally listed I would recommend a battery isolating device to keep the new ones from fighting the old ones. I've made the isolaters myself. A bit different as I was working with multiple charging sources.

I run two 8D batteries, runs just great

 

[BOXBUILDER6971]

I want to thank all of you for the comments you made positive or negative.. I did listen to you. I did disconnect the two 6TN batteries from the 4D batteries. As you can see in the picture a terminal on each 6TN battery is connected to nothing. I just left them in there for now. The blue cable with the fuse connected to the red cable is for the LED lights, back up camera and monitor. All are 24V sharing a common ground is why only one wire connected. If you have any ideas or comments please let me and others on here know.

 

[jerry v]

I have 2 walmart batteries starts fine

 

[tobyS]

About $420 at Oreilly for (2) 1400 cca is hard to beat.

When I mix hawkers and another flooded cell, I end up with at least one, usually 2 that won't hold a charge, that went in fully charged.

 

[captacademy]

View attachment 598574
Hello to all who was like me in trying to find a replacement for the Military 6TN / 6TL battery. I am new here and know there are more POST about batteries. I just wanted to show everyone out here how I added 2 more batteries to my truck. I hope this may help someone else, maybe a newbie like myself to Military Trucks.
Here Is How I redone my battery box on my M932A2 5 Ton BMY. I got ripped off when I got my truck. It only had 2 batteries, with no tie downs. I read on here where a lot of people used different car batteries. I researched several options before choosing these. I first measured my battery compartment. It was basically 21" X 32". My 6TN Hawker batteries were a hair over 11" wide. I searched the web to find the biggest battery I could find to fit my box. The 8D commercial batteries had the most power, but I could not fit 2 beside each other. The 4D commercial batteries were a bit smaller but would fit. I used the truck batteries not the SOLAR Deep Cycle batteries. I used the Duracell Ultra SLI4DA with 1290 Cranking AMPS and 1050 CCA with 290 minutes reserve. Here is the link from batteries + Bulbs. https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli4da I used the coupon CDP10011 for 10% OFF online orders For a total of $275.29 before tax for 2 batteries. I went to store and picked up. First removed the 6TN batteries to have room for the 4D batteries. They weigh right 100lbs each. I removed the boards under the 4D batteries and stacked between the 4D's for spacers. I then bought some stainless flat bar 2" wide and 3/8" thick. I cut it 13 1/2" long. I drilled a 3/8" holes through each end, and 3/4" center from each end. This gave me 12" centers between holes and used the original J hooks. I used 3/8" stainless lock nuts with nylon inserts. I used rubber belt under the stainless bar to spaces and to be more secure. You should use the vent less batteries with no caps on top. the caps will get in the way of the stainless flat bar. I used new 2/0 welding cable and crimped new ends on to make custom cables. Used heat shrink to make look neat and protect the cable. Found a diagram on the web to wire correctly. Finished connecting the cables together, checked voltage with a digital meter to make sure correct. Flipped the main switch, turned to run a moment to power the truck. Tapped the starter and about a second started like a brand new car. For all out there who want the keyed kill switch. Just remove a few boards and there is still enough room between the batteries to install the switch and cables.

Thank you for posting, I need replace two batteries and did not know where to start.