m998 Solenoid Wire ( 74A ) Hot All The Time

[BennyM1097A2]

If I remove 14A from the start switch, then switch to "run", the starter still turns......I'm out of ideas.....is it possible that the controller is making a short circuit to the starter? or some other component that brings power to my 74a? And why then is there no power on the humvee???? I can not think any more

 

[AAVP7]

With the plug on the start/run-switch removed, measure the voltage on the three prongs inside the wire plug. Only 11A should have +24 volts.

Then put the plug on the start/run-switch back on, and remove the footwell side plug on the PCB box.

With the start/run switch on "off", PIN A (14A) should have 0 volts.
With the start/run switch on "run", PIN A (14A) should still have 0 volts. If it has voltage then, the start/run switch is probably broken.

However, as Cam said, this doesn´t give an explanation for the lights problem rightaway. But one problem after the other. 11A seems to be connected inside the box with 15A, the supply line to the light switch, so there might be a connection.

P.S.: Maybe you should remove the plug on the light switch before you do the above tests, to make sure a possible short in the light switch doesn´t influence the testing. Maybe a short in the light switch is not the result, but the source of the problem.

 

[Mogman]

I suspect you have miswired whatever you built to bypass the PCB box.

 

[Milcommoguy]

These are GREAT posts to the goings on... or not on. Stay focused, logical approach (knowing one can get bit in the butt lol) process of elimination or substitution (your rewire bypass if done correctly)

I am getting the feeling were not getting the whole story. These "boxes" if you leave out the "Smart Parts" just distribute power (24 volts) to where it is need.

Voltage present on the 74a wire to the solenoid should be easy to locate (that's going to get me in trouble) Stated, you can turn it on and off should be a major clue.

Sectionalize - Isolate - found it - eliminate - fixed it. On to the next problem. Not sure of your rewire, And what do you have to loose, OPEN the DUMB box and see what you see. Many have had issues (guessing) full of water or smoke.

Question ? Are you Mr. Sebastian. Had to ask.

I am running out of logical guesses, Sorry. When you find it, please let the gang here know.

I have to get back to work. (YES honey, be right there. Poor excuse. lol )

On the bench on this one, CAMO

 

[BennyM1097A2]

Hello people, thank you for your support. I found the mistake. The plug of the glowbox was twisted on itself...so the pins no longer matched. Unfortunately my alternator is no longer charging...does anyone know how to test the regulator? I probably destroyed it but I want to be sure.
greetings Benny

 

[Mogman]

Make sure you have 24V to the ign. and output terminal when in run position, does the heater fan run?

 

[Coug]

You mentioned a 200 amp alternator in your first post (and it does make a difference, so thank you for specifying that)

Here is the manufacturer's troubleshooting guide. Just follow what it says

https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

 

[Milcommoguy]

As I look back, reviewing the notes, drawings and sleeping on it I was wondering if one didn't have the connector indexed wrong. I have seen customers do this before, and that's all I will say. It can happen and now a new teachable moment / learning experience for ALL.

IMO... it would be hard to mess up the alternator as it needs a sense lead to control and in the case of a 200 amp its output is direct to batteries, But not being the boots on the ground you maybe lucky with that. NOW there's a good chance the box is out to lunch. Never told us which controller or sent a picture.

Pay attention to the KEYWAY ! Various manufactures / models flip them index 180 degrees and don't ask why,

Disconnect batteries First when messing with Engine and Body connectors, CAMO

Found this in my DUH file>