Machine cooling and cutting oils can these be used with proper filtration?

[CT06018]

Hello folks,
New to the forum, first post here hope I don’t screw it up royally, I will apologize in advance just cover my bases.
So I have access to 300 - 600 gallons of used / waste machine cutting oil supposedly a mix of Vascomil 22 and CutMax 570.
I have a M35a2 1971 Kaiser (pictures will be provided when I have a day to research the proper way to resize them).
Is it possible to run this mixture through the LDT 465 after properly filtering / centrifuging?
I have concerns about the metal that may or may not be in this used mixture and would like to hear anyone’s thoughts on properly removing any and all containment’s as possible, before I agree to accept possession of this volume of this stuff.
Does anyone have any experience with these types of oils?
best regards and thanks in advance for any input that can be provided

 

[gimpyrobb]

First thing I'd do is make sure it is a hydrocarbon based oil. Some are water based and not what you'd want in a fuel system. Once its established that it will burn, I'd think filtering and heating to remove moisture and you should be good to go.

 

[porkysplace]

Oil or water base ?
[h=1]Machining coolants[/h]
[h=1]Machine tool coolant???[/h]

 

[CT06018]

The Vascomil 22 is a partially synthetic ester based non water miscible, the CutMax 570 is not water soluble and appears to be mineral and petroleum based mixture.
i guess I should grab it up and filter it out and try a small dose and work my way up from there.

Thanks for the quick response, my best to you and all yours.

 

[CT06018]

http://www.cuttingfluids.com.mx/es/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Vascomill_22.pdf

http://www.hazard.com/msds/f2/bvn/bvnsz.html

These are the two web based pages I have found relating to both these products.

Non water miscible =‘s will not mix with water / Vascomil 22

Not water soluble for the CutMax 570

 

[CT06018]

I attempted to post links to the Vascomil 22 and CutMax 570 it is waiting for moderator approval to post, woopsies if I made a boo boo

 

[gimpyrobb]

Nah, most new posts are moderated till youvebeen found to not "spam" the forum. We've had lots of new guys join just to post links to products they are selling.

 

[CT06018]

I understand, I wouldn’t trust me either......ha ha ha ...........at least not in the beginning

 

[patracy]

Got it approved. Since it was machining, odds are that the metals found are mainly large in nature. But some things will give off a very fine "chip" depending on the material and machining process. Those typically being non-ferrous in nature. So as long as there's no water in the oils, you filter heavily (and perhaps try some rare earth magnets to at least pull the ferrous stuff out), maybe. But I can say this, the coolant trap in my CNC (although I use a water soluble coolant) is not something I'd want in my fuel system. I'm just thinking of all the other things that have slipped into that. (parts cleaner, various other solvents, and some not so healthy stuff like beryllium copper) And I'm the only one that uses the machine. Who knows what happens at a shop.

 

[CT06018]

Thanks for your input, I have only run diesel in my deuce todate.

The idea of a alternate fuel has me contemplating the possibility of what I can or should consider using from the locally available muck. I posted this because I have access to 300 gallons of the stuff at present.

Thanks again

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

I have used machining coolants; both oil-based and water-based. They both work as long as you keep in mind that the water-based machining coolants are generally emulsions of water and oil. I find adding gasoline at 20% to any waste oil will break any emulsions that might be in the oil. Sediments are formed, and take about 2 weeks to precipitate out of solution and settle to the bottom of the tank. This necessitates a drain valve to remove those sediments at the bottom of the tank.

Thanks to patracy for posting his recommendations. I employ them with success. Settling, and filtration seem to remove enough of the incompatible components of waste oils to reduce transfer of them into the fuel tank of my autos with diesel engines.

 

[CT06018]

I thank you for the input and will certainly use this information going forward if the supply of this product continues to be made available to me. 20% gasoline before allowing to sit for sedimentation.

 

[73m819]

I would not use ANY used cutting oil because as much as can be filtered ,there STILL will be tiny bits of metal in the oil, these bits WILL eat a IP up, the fine, fine, fine bits will act like emery cloth. If you get a high tec filter to pull the fine bits out of the oil, the cost will eat your fuel savings up.

The multifuel was designed by the Germans in ww2 as a throw away diesel engine that could run on battlefield collected crap, modern multifuel was again a diesel designed to run on battlefield collected crap and was a throw away also, the reason was for this was that the next war was though that it was going go to be in Europe at the time the American multifuel was designed because fuel supplies might be a issue.

Since the multifuel is really a DIESEL engine, not a crap sucker, all the tiny bits of carbon, metals, trans oil with friction enhancers, crap, crap, crap do NOT help diesel engines, the IPs, rings, ect. You may say no big deal I will just filer the crap out, wrong, the unseeable fine junk is still there, I am not saying it can not be done, the only person I know that can truly filter the crap out is Chis (the Gimp), believe it or not, his used fuel is clear and cleaner then pump fuel. So your engines, your money, do what you want, if something dose fail because of crap run though your diesel engine, there goes your fuel savings plus.

 

[dmetalmiki]

"the only person I know that can truly filter the crap out is Chis (the Gimp), believe it or not, his used fuel is clear and cleaner then pump fuel."
And HE?.................(It would be nice to know just how.)

 

[frank8003]

The lap on the rotating up and down plunger rod to plunger housing is
better than 5 micron, hand fitted.
That is the piece to protect.
One could always use a 3 micron filter.
That is less than the space between the "oil film" and the bearings, the crank and the film or however you see it.


https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...never-change-all-those-filters-again-02252018

 

[frank8003]

"the only person I know that can truly filter the crap out is Chis (the Gimp), believe it or not, his used fuel is clear and cleaner then pump fuel."
And HE?.................(It would be nice to know just how.)

Now you know of two.

 

[CT06018]

Hello 73m819,
I understand the benefits of running straight diesel in these engines, I have been a mechanic all my life, worked for Mack Trucks in the UAW during the 80’s. I posted earlier that to date I have only run diesel in my deuce. The engine’s fuel density compensator allows for the approved fuels to be run at their different viscosities and btu rates per gallon, and yes you could put anything in the tank if you were retreating from the enemy, with the idea that depending upon what you filled the tank with it would/could inversely affect amount of longevity your engine would deliver.
Given that, diesel most probably gives the most mileage per gallon with the least wear on the engines fuel delivery system as a whole, given diesel’s chemistry properties.
Time appears to have shown that a comprehensive system of alternate fuel(s) filtration, with sedimentation, centrifugal, heating, and magnets will/should produce a clean enough (micron) end product to pass through the fuel system without effecting damage as long as it provides enough lubrication to maintain normal wear and tear to injection pumps.
The amount of power that is available form these alternate fuels being burned through these hyper cycle / whisper engines is something that I feel will be much less efficient than the normal diesel we get from the pump these days, so it may or may not be the “way to go”, time may tell.
I thank you for your input to this discussion, I value anyone’s opinions, feelings, experiences, and facts regarding this type of endeavor, while I am exploring the possibilities of both the benefits and liabilities of going down this road (no pun intended)
best regards

 

[Jbulach]

...Since the multifuel is really a DIESEL engine, not a crap sucker, all the tiny bits of carbon, metals, trans oil with friction enhancers, crap, crap, crap do NOT help diesel engines, the IPs, rings, ect. You may say no big deal I will just filer the crap out, wrong, the unseeable fine junk is still there, I am not saying it can not be done, the only person I know that can truly filter the crap out is Chis (the Gimp), believe it or not, his used fuel is clear and cleaner then pump fuel....

Hmmm... I wonder if Gimpys burning half his crap to distill his other “crap”... Can you drink this “fuel” after he “filters” it?

 

[Farmitall]

In an end of the world setting....maybe. I'm just not that desperate for good clean fuel at the moment. The potential down side doesn't fit the picture right now.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

I thank you for the input and will certainly use this information going forward if the supply of this product continues to be made available to me. 20% gasoline before allowing to sit for sedimentation.

You really do not want to leave a gasoline-based fuel blend sitting around, unless it is in a pressurized fuel tank, which is what my blending tank is all about.

The lap on the rotating up and down plunger rod to plunger housing is
better than 5 micron, hand fitted.
That is the piece to protect.
One could always use a 3 micron filter.
That is less than the space between the "oil film" and the bearings, the crank and the film or however you see it.


https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...never-change-all-those-filters-again-02252018

You are right on. My final filter is 1-micron. Also, a centrifuge can be used to remove smaller particles. Metals are very dense; so, as long as your fuel blend meets the diesel spec (.845sg), then all of the metals are going to settle to the bottom of the tank in about 2 weeks of settling. Carbon, which is in WMO, is another problem. It seems to take about 2 months to fully settle out.