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Making a fiberglass hood?

Darwin T

Active member
1,185
10
38
Location
Port Arthur, Texas
Darwint, the picture you posted is my Fiberglass Hardtop. I have been making them for many years. The 3 light mount bars are re-inforcement stiffeners too, as are the 2 smaller bars in between them. When my hardtop is bolted down to the truck, you can walk on it, which is not true with factory steel hardtops. I sell these is 3 weight grades and have them in stock. JT out
there are awsome, i talked to some one a year are so ago about them. this is when i only had my M109a3 and was looking for a m66 ring mount. now i also have two M35a2's. what i am looking for though is one that is flat on tops like the hardtops but without the stuff on the inside so i can cut a hole and put the ring reinforcement on it under my m66 ring mount. i have also been trying to find one like Billy Bobbed has. his is solid 1/8" welded steel off of a forest fire fighting truck. you can see his top in a "dome light install in a hard top" page 4.
 

Riktord

Member
78
1
6
Location
Dallas, TX
He'll just use my existing hood to make the mold from. Lay glass and resin over it so it holds tight to it, pop it off after it dries and presto, instand mold. Then just do it in reverse, feather out the underhood, or if need be make another mold for the inside, then form the 2 halves into a whole and you're done. Quick, easy, pretty to look at and above all funtional. Now there may be some wood added into it for the hinge and hook parts, but as a whole, it isn't too hard from what I've seen him do with other stuff in the past.

If he has the original, he's crazy fast at popping replicas out.
Wood is used in the process of building the plug or the mold you never use mood in the final product unless youre making a ****ed boat.

Aluminum strips or bars molded into a frame for the final fiberglass product should yeild enough strength for all the critical points such as hinges, latchs and contact points.
 

Bigmanbrock07

New member
45
0
0
Location
Panama City, Fl
Wood is used in the process of building the plug or the mold you never use mood in the final product unless youre making a ****ed boat.

Aluminum strips or bars molded into a frame for the final fiberglass product should yeild enough strength for all the critical points such as hinges, latchs and contact points.

Been around many racing hoods that require stock hinges and latches? I can't count how many fiberglass cowl hoods I've seen with oak in the hinge areas or the latch? Aluminum would be wonderful in most areas, but isn't always best. Wood can be shaped much better for strength at latch points most times on regular cars, unless you have a bridgeport handy. Now for these trucks, a thin strip of aluminum would be perfect I would imagine. We'll see what he says when I get back in a couple weeks. :beer:
 

Riktord

Member
78
1
6
Location
Dallas, TX
Been around many racing hoods that require stock hinges and latches? I can't count how many fiberglass cowl hoods I've seen with oak in the hinge areas or the latch? Aluminum would be wonderful in most areas, but isn't always best. Wood can be shaped much better for strength at latch points most times on regular cars, unless you have a bridgeport handy. Now for these trucks, a thin strip of aluminum would be perfect I would imagine. We'll see what he says when I get back in a couple weeks. :beer:
I've designed an build composite shells for automotive racing as well as one peice hulls for boats. Although wood is a simple medium i have moved from it and found that aluminum and far more versitile especially considering is degredation and corrosion resistance is far greater than wood.

Not saying wood is BAD. It's just an old medium and i prefer aluminum. Once anealed it is very easy to work with. Not to mention who doesn't enjoy pounding something with a hammer?
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
Darwint, the picture you posted is my Fiberglass Hardtop. I have been making them for many years. The 3 light mount bars are re-inforcement stiffeners too, as are the 2 smaller bars in between them. When my hardtop is bolted down to the truck, you can walk on it, which is not true with factory steel hardtops. I sell these is 3 weight grades and have them in stock. JT out
I don't see them on your website...have a link?
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
I've searched this site and the -20 TM and can't find info on how to remove the hood hinges. The forward half of the hinge is obvious but it looks like the nuts holding the rear half of the hinges are up behind the firewall? Any tricks to reaching / removing those?

It's a rusty area on my truck that needs attention.
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,983
2,518
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
........... Any tricks to reaching / removing those?

A 7/16" wrench and monkey arms.... or Soldier B...? :razz:

It's kind of tricky but you should be able to reach/hold the nuts after folding up the WS. Removing the instrument panel makes it easier.

G.
 

trukhead

New member
725
5
0
Location
dane/wi
I want a composite A3 hood; that is light so I can lift it and strong so I can walk on it. Why because customer is king!

Been around many racing hoods that require stock hinges and latches? I can't count how many fiberglass cowl hoods I've seen with oak in the hinge areas or the latch? Aluminum would be wonderful in most areas, but isn't always best. Wood can be shaped much better for strength at latch points most times on regular cars, unless you have a bridgeport handy. Now for these trucks, a thin strip of aluminum would be perfect I would imagine. We'll see what he says when I get back in a couple weeks. :beer:
Time for the 21st century!

How about titanium inserts?

I've designed an build composite shells for automotive racing as well as one peice hulls for boats. Although wood is a simple medium i have moved from it and found that aluminum and far more versitile especially considering is degredation and corrosion resistance is far greater than wood.

Not saying wood is BAD. It's just an old medium and i prefer aluminum. Once anealed it is very easy to work with. Not to mention who doesn't enjoy pounding something with a hammer?
And carbon fiber.

Like I said, the A3 composite hood is pretty freaking strong.
[thumbzup]:hammer::jumpin::mrgreen::grd::driver::doghead::beer::tin hat:fat lady sings
 
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