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Making a fording kit

Lax

Member
335
14
18
Location
Upstate New York
I would like to make my own fording kit for a M35A2 multifuel. From what I see it looks like I should run vent lines to each axle vent. I should also run a vent tube to the air compressor. I need to get a new gasket for my fuel tank cap. The gasket for the oil fill cap seems to be good.

My plan is to run all vent lines to the air filter can. There looks like there is an airline connection already on the air filter can which should work great!

That having been said I'm sure I am forgetting something. Can you guys offer any advise? I have a few more other questions too.

Since the air from the air filter can is being drawn in, will that be a good place for the vents or will that not vent the axles but add positive air pressure to the axles. If so is that a bad thing and will it force grease out of the bearings, effect the seals, etc.

Has anyone done this before? If my theory is correct I should ten be able to ford water to the depth of the top of the exhaust pipe and and an air intake snorkel.

Thanks for all your help!
 

devilman96

New member
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Location
Boca Raton, FL
Ditto on the "make my own"...

Your correct on the air cleaner... that stub is for the compressor.

You need a PSI reg and switch in order to pressurize your clutch housing, which also pressurizes your transmission to keep water out. I am going to go a step forward and run the axle lines and PTO vent in order to pressurize them too (4-7PSI)... Wheel bearings will be an issue reguardless (use synthetic grease as it does not mix with water)... The PSI regs are hard to find but I was able to locate a civilian version that is made for 0-10 psi... Almost a $100 but worth it (imho)... The switch you need is the same as your air lock for front wheel drive.

I am not for sure about the master cylinder vent on the Mil forwarding kit but I have / am installing a remote reservoir up on the top of the firewall which replaces the vent.

Need to chase down your hydrovac vent line and find out where it was plumbed to... There are two possibilities due to an up date issued that relocated the outlet from the crank case breather. Again I don't know if the Mil kit dealt with that but I will be and if you vent line is going to your breather you need to move it due to engine gasses getting into the vac and screwing up the gaskets and seals.

Batteries... stock or gel cells anything else will fill with water.

Ah yes... diving regs, mask, snorkel, and BC!!! LOL

Im sure there are a few other tricks or something or another I am missing yet......
 

rmgill

Active member
2,479
14
38
Location
Decatur, Ga
For deep water fording, the stack needs to have a parallel tube that vents the master cylinder and air pack. That mounts next to the stack. I think you can add the axles to the pressurized system, but I'm not sure. Likely if you vent them to the same vent stack you'll be good. For the crankcase breather, I'd probably add one of those racor breather kits that Bjorn added to his truck.
 

Lax

Member
335
14
18
Location
Upstate New York
I would really like a step by step walk through if anyone has one that has done this before. Develman, have you completed your fording kit yet? How much time and money did it cost you? Thanks.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
GA Mountains
Cranetruck did a 2 part article in MV Magazine covering the fording operations. He also went into detail on each change to make, in progressive order and to the depth at which they work. If you go to the back of the -10 manual it gives a brief description on the fording operation. Now if you go to TM 9-2320-361-20P towards the back (pg 294 I think) you can see a breakdown of each and every part in the kit. Maybe someone could scan the article for you so you can see what you get for your money. The regulator is the biggy, if you have that, everything else can be fabbed up!
 

ken

Active member
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Lax, If you run your vents to the air filter can they will be under a vacume. Sort of. The engine is drawing air through the can so any vents into the can will result in the air being drawen into the engine. I have the prints and instructions that came with the kits. That i had scanned. But for some reason i can't get post them. File too big ETC.
As far as the airpack and master cylinder goes. They are plumbed into the fittings on the engines crankcase breather tube. I've intstalled 6 of these kits on mine and the firetrucks.They work great. I've been in water over the hood.
 

Lax

Member
335
14
18
Location
Upstate New York
Ken,
Thanks. I just sent you a PM. Either I just sent you about three of the same one or none of them went through. In either case... Sorry.

If the vents for the axles are under vacuum wouldn't that actually draw water into the axles through the seals? That's bad. What is your thought on that?

Also I have heard from some guys that have done nothing and they did fine with the completely stock setup in water up to the fenders. If possible I want to do over the hood for depth for long periods of time if I have to. Thanks.
 

mendo069

Member
56
0
6
Location
hesperia,ca.
since we are on this topic, does anyone know where i can get the bracket and hose kit for the deuce?? this is the one that moves the mushroom up the exhaust stack... if i fab the brackets, where do i get that thick bendable rubber hose to connect the mushroom?? thanks... mendo..
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
5,326
290
83
Location
Gravette Ar.
If you are driveing the truck why would you need the "BC" just use the seat belt and if you have the tank on the bc there is no way in **** you will fit behind the wheel (this is where a smiles whould be nice)
 

ken

Active member
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Location
Houston Texas
Lax, Your PM didn't make it. I vented my gearboxes at the top of the snorkle. I ran 3/8 rubber fuel lines from the gearbox vents to the brackets holding the snorkle to the exaust. As i went i used tee's in the lines untill i had one vent hose instead of running 5 hoses to the top. If you look on your axle/gearbox vents there should be one way valves on them. None of mine worked. I wouldn't trust them. Gear oil ain't cheep nowdays. They let air/water flow both ways. Although they did make a nice rinnging sound when they landed in the trash can. Don't forget to inspect every gasket/seal on the truck. If oil/grease is getting out. Water will get in. I use boat trailor wheel/marine bearing grease on everything. It won't absorb water and will let you get home before you need to repack bearings. DON"T forget the fuel tank cap! Make sure the gasket is in good shape.
 

Lax

Member
335
14
18
Location
Upstate New York
Ken,
Here is the PM I just sent you. The PMs do not seem to getting either to you or from me. Sorry. Mabe you can PM me. Thanks.

"Ken,
Thanks for your help. I asked in my PM to you if you would mind if I called you sometime and asked you a bunch of questions. My goal is to be able to ford water over the hood for an extended period of time if need be. My local volunteer FD has already told me to be prepared to be called into action when needed.

I was hoping you could walk me through the process and suggest where I could get all the stuff. I guess I just have a bunch of questions for you. I'd be happy to call you at home or work anytime it's good for you. Thank you very much for all your help"
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Houston Texas
Lax I'll send you a PM with my # and see if it works.
This morning i noticed on saturns site they listed a 5 ton fording kit. Mabye it has the internal parts. If so you'll be half way there.
 

houdel

Active member
1,563
9
38
Location
Chase, MI
As for moving the mushroom up the stack, just go to the local auto parts store and buy/order two 4"x4" 90 degree bends and a length of 4" exhaust pipe. Lay it out in your mind before ordering parts as some will have to be 4"OD x 4"OD, some 4"OD x 4"ID, and the pipe will be 4"OD x 4"OD. FYI, the inlet to the air cleaner is 4"OD, the mushroom itself is 4"ID. Get the 4" flat strap clamps instead of the regular U-Bolt and saddle clamp, they are much neater looking albiet a bit more expensive. You will need to fab up a bracket to support your new inlet stack off of the exhaust pipe shield, but if you have gotton this far, that part should be a no brainer.
 

Lax

Member
335
14
18
Location
Upstate New York
houdel,
Thank you very much! I just spoke by phone to Ken and he gave me a lot of information. I asked if he ever thought about making some kits. I think there are a few guys that would really like to have a fording kit for there M35s but don't even know where to start. Me being one of them.

With the hurricanes and the extreme weather that we seem to get more often there may be a whole lot of guys looking for a fording kit if they were not to expensive. If anyone else is interested in a fording kit speak up! Just a thought. Thanks again.
 

Lax

Member
335
14
18
Location
Upstate New York
I believe there are more then a few guys that would like to have a fording kit for their M35. Especially of it is not too expensive.
 

Lax

Member
335
14
18
Location
Upstate New York
Ken,
I did contact them as you recommended but they told me that the kits were long gone for 5 ton and he had never seen them for M35s. Strike one!

It looks like I'm back to square one again.
 
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