Crash_AF
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You have an 84 Chevy K30, not a CUCV? That's why it's different. The CUCV system is unique.
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Those civy controllers fail a lot. They were designed for 6V 'fast glow' (fast blow) system. If you are getting 12v from controller it is probably bad.The solenoid is on the drivers fender. There in not a box under the steering column..
What I have is as follows...solenoid...battery cable attached to solenoid toward front of engine...two into one orange/ red wires attached to solenoid towards rear of engine...terminal attached to center of solenoid with light blue wire and pink/red wire.
The pink and blue wire connect to harness with black plastic connector where they become light green and cream with a black stripe.
Anybody have any Ideas what I can do???
The glow plugs do not work at all.
Solenoid is new...as are the glow plugs and the controller seems good. All wiring is intact and serviceable.
???????
If you believe controller and all is intact, test your glow plugs, one or all of them may be blown, and show no visual indicators. one way is to pull one, hook up juper cable to the lead coming off the plug and pos of your battery, then ground the threads of the glow plug to the neg terminal....I have read several posts on this thread about manual momentary switches...I am trying to figure out how to do this to my vehicle.
It is an 84 Chevy custom deluxe with the 6.2 ...but my configuration of glow plug relays seems much different.
The solenoid is on the drivers fender. There in not a box under the steering column..
What I have is as follows...solenoid...battery cable attached to solenoid toward front of engine...two into one orange/ red wires attached to solenoid towards rear of engine...terminal attached to center of solenoid with light blue wire and pink/red wire.
The pink and blue wire connect to harness with black plastic connector where they become light green and cream with a black stripe.
Anybody have any Ideas what I can do???
The glow plugs do not work at all.
Solenoid is new...as are the glow plugs and the controller seems good. All wiring is intact and serviceable.
???????
Thanks.If you believe controller and all is intact, test your glow plugs, one or all of them may be blown, and show no visual indicators. one way is to pull one, hook up juper cable to the lead coming off the plug and pos of your battery, then ground the threads of the glow plug to the neg terminal....
Check and Recheck,Thanks.
All the glow plugs were replaced...when I overhauled the engine at about 580,000
Had an auto electrician go through everything and he is stumped too.
Driving me crazy..instead of driving my truck.
Because everyone knows what happens when one assumes...Check and Recheck,
This was a good read. My WTS light comes on for a decent amount of time but I see no voltage drop on the voltmeter in my M1009. When I hit the GP's in my M1008 I drop almost 3 volts. The PO hacked this thing up so bad and I see a NAPA solenoid so he had his dirty little paws on that too.Before you condemn your card as being bad, make sure to check the position of the small gauge orange wire on the glow plug relay. That wire is the voltage sensing wire for the card and the TM wiring diagram for its position is WRONG.
The TM states that the orange wire is supposed to be connected to the same terminal as the red wire from the resistor bank on the firewall. If it is hooked up that way, the controller will not energize the relay. The WAIT light will come on and then go out like it is heating the glow plugs, but nothing will happen with the relay.
The correct location for the wire is on the same terminal as the two large orange wires that feed the glow plugs.
Later,
Joe
Kinda off track question; there is a smaller,similar box with a "card" in it taped to the multipin plug deal. What is it for?Here are some pics of my manual glow plug overide install. I choose to keep the glow plug controller and light blue wire intact, in case I ever want to go back to the factory setup. I ran a new black wire from the glow plug relay, through the firewall, to my switch in the dash.
Yes, The box with the card is taped to the wires that go to the diagnostic plug. I will have to track those wires.I seen it but do not know what it is for. You are talking the diagnostic plug at the dash above the throttle pedal. Not needed. remove and discard the entire plug and harness. Keep the round bracket it is perfect for mounting a gauge. Or sell it on Ebay.