• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Mechanical Booster Pump "making oil"

yolner

Active member
393
68
28
Location
Rockville, MD
OK
Got mine in the mail today, $35.00 including shipping. AMBAC # KT9062
Looking at the pictures of the kit and the pump I just took apart I can't figure out where the o-ring and the round yellow gasket piece are supposed to fit. I took my pump apart and all i found is the seal and the snapring. I did check the TM and I don't see them on there unless they're under the "valve screw" piece on the side. Can anyone confirm?

EDIT: Ok, found the o-ring on the valve screw. Still don't see the yellow washer/gasket anywhere.
 
Last edited:

Stranger

Member
120
2
18
Location
Weatherford, OK
Looking at the pictures of the kit and the pump I just took apart I can't figure out where the o-ring and the round yellow gasket piece are supposed to fit. I took my pump apart and all i found is the seal and the snapring. I did check the TM and I don't see them on there unless they're under the "valve screw" piece on the side. Can anyone confirm?

EDIT: Ok, found the o-ring on the valve screw. Still don't see the yellow washer/gasket anywhere.
Correct. They are under the valve screw. That yellow gasket is the "preformed packing" (Item P) on diagram 3-43 (Page 3-32).
 

yolner

Active member
393
68
28
Location
Rockville, MD
Ok so here's my valve screw. The o-ring is right there, but no gasket unless it's sandwiched between the silver tip and the black part. Anyone know how this thing comes apart to replace the gasket? Don't want to break it.
0222161553a[1].jpg

EDIT: Looks like the silver part was just stuck to the gasket. I smacked it on a piece of wood and it popped off. Mystery solved!
 
Last edited:

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
So this is the one of five ways to be "making oil" with a Deuce multi fuel.
A little seal to stop from engine destruction.
So looks like to cure the problem you need a little KIT from AMBAC KT9062
Looks the same for all of the different booster pump series and same for ONAN MEP003 pumps
So see the nice pictures and read the PDF and the KIT is now on a popular site see that they are now on a auction auction site for 24 bucks delivered.
I am not sure that all this was fun but I needed to know.
IMG_4582.jpg

where seals go DSC00183b.JPG

IMG_4583.jpg

View attachment booster pump seal.pdf
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,266
2,962
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
So this is the one of five ways to be "making oil" with a Deuce multi fuel.
A little seal to stop from engine destruction.
So looks like to cure the problem you need a little KIT from AMBAC KT9062
Looks the same for all of the different booster pump series and same for ONAN MEP003 pumps
So see the nice pictures and read the PDF and the KIT is now on a popular site see that they are now on a auction auction site for 24 bucks delivered.
I am not sure that all this was fun but I needed to know.
View attachment 702573

View attachment 702574

View attachment 702575

View attachment 702576

Thanks Frank ! I needed to finish rebuilding a couple of boost pumps, and now I can.
 

Gnepig

New member
23
0
0
Location
Fla
The kit I found on that online auction site that starts with an e, says it's a KT 9062 Mack model 300- is this the one I need or am I looking in the wrong place?
 

Gnepig

New member
23
0
0
Location
Fla
I've also found the HH o rings on the same auction site, are the Viton one's good or should I just use rubber?
Also someone said it would be easier to remove the IP to change these parts than to move the whole engine, is this correct?
 

texas30cal

Active member
484
87
28
Location
Brenham Tx.
I just rebuilt the pump on my truck last weekend, I didn't move the motor at all, I pulled the drivers fender for easier access (no ladder needed). I pulled the steering wheel, disconnected turn signal, loosened the column mount on the dash, pulled the 4 bolts securing the column to the steering box and slid the column up. The steering shaft will stay behind in the box but you can remove the cover and one gear from the pump then rotate the pump housing ccw until it's nearly upside down. It wouldn't quite come out but using a prybar to push the steering shaft away from the IP just a little was all it needed to come out. It was really quite easy. Do not turn the wheel after removing the 4 bolts securing the column as the shaft will try to screw itself up and out of the gearbox, it may not hurt but I'm not sure so prob best to keep it in the box. Also be careful with the column shims and put rags in the opening around the steering shaft to keep out dirt and foreign objects.
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,266
2,962
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I've also found the HH o rings on the same auction site, are the Viton one's good or should I just use rubber?
Also someone said it would be easier to remove the IP to change these parts than to move the whole engine, is this correct?
No. Leave the injection pump alone. The Hydraulic Head comes out pretty easy after you align up the marks.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I think he is planning on doing the fuel pump too. Its really a pita to work with, with the IP on the motor.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,409
2,502
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
Also gives you the chance to change out the rubber IP oil feed line. I still believe the IP can be taken out without removing fenders or radiator. Yes you have to be able to touch your toes and have a bench to stand on and lay across the fender for awhile. Yes skinny boys with the right tools have the advantage sometime.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I pull the IP without pulling the rad or fender. It can be a huge pita if you have a heater mounted there though(inner fender).

I might have an oil hose kit or two still, if interested, PM me.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,409
2,502
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
Yep just lay the heater over the motor leaving the lines attached is what I did. It is tight working and not much fun but it can be done. I have a set of steps that put my waist just at the right height to be able to bend over and put my chubby belly on the fender.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,266
2,962
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Yep just lay the heater over the motor leaving the lines attached is what I did. It is tight working and not much fun but it can be done. I have a set of steps that put my waist just at the right height to be able to bend over and put my chubby belly on the fender.
Hey those "chubby bellies" come in handy as a buffer against things like hard fenders ! Kind of like having a built-in pillow !
 

Gnepig

New member
23
0
0
Location
Fla
I suppose that replacing the seal in the booster pump would be a good idea, thats why the question about the IP removal.

I am equipped with one of those "chubby bellies"...
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks