MEP-002A/003A Frequency Transducer Replacement

[Light in the Dark]

It appears there is another option for those of you who fight with this part. So while this part was not originally designed for this set, it does work on the machine to make your hertz meter work again! I have installed one on an 003A here today and it worked just fine. I was discussing doing this swap a few weeks ago with @jamawieb, and he actually confirmed it worked after our discussion. Was time for me to get around to doing it too. Next is an 002 here with the same issue.

The item in question can be found on the big auction site for a good price ($12.90) under the search phrase "New Technology Research Corp. TRC Frequency Transducer Control Converter 60 HZ " with free shipping.

Installed:



The holes don't line up exactly, so I opened each top mounting hole with a 1/4" drill bit, and was able to make them pull tight. It used only the top 2 mounts. You could drill 2 more, or leave as is. I am going to get small rubber plugs to fill the bottom (2) holes in the operator control cube..

Unit:

 

[Guyfang]

It never occurred to me, but in retrospect, why should it NOT work? It simply takes an AC signal, and converts it to a DC signal. The meter? Well, that should not be a big problem. In my experience, if it fits in the hole, should work.

 

[jamawieb]

It fits nice in the appropriate place, light in the dark lead me to the transducer and I tried it. It's been working perfectly for the last few weeks. When mounting, 2 of the original mounting bolts (holes) will work, you can use those 2 or you can drill 2 more additional holes so all 4 mounting locations will align.

 

[Ray70]

Nice! I've had a rash of transducers that peg the gage high recently. Since I have run out of spare transducers I've been using these cheap direct read Chineese gages I get for like $10 , but they are cheesy plastic crap. I would prefer to keep the original Ruggedized gages!
I'm off to purchase a couple... Thanks for the info.

 

[Chainbreaker]

I have one of my generators where the Hertz gauge was dropping out now & then, while Kill-A-Watt meter was holding steady. Suspect it's the transducer, so I put in a bid for 3 of these units. Total purchase came out to $30.

Knowing they do fail eventually it will leave me with a couple spares on the shelf after I replace the flakey one.

Thank you LITD for sharing your finding of this OEM Vendor's compatible component!

 

[Chainbreaker]

It never occurred to me, but in retrospect, why should it NOT work? It simply takes an AC signal, and converts it to a DC signal.

Someone ? a couple years ago on SS said, or I read somewhere, that "the gauge and transducer were matched units". That when one component was faulty both the gauge and transducer were replaced together.

Regardless, whether or not that is the case having a Kill-A-Watt meter to compare readings should validate whether its reading accurately enough.

 

[Guyfang]

Back in the day, they were considered "Matched Units" I never beleed it, and always ordered the part I wanted, not a matched unit. Worked well for me. I would not worry about it. As a side note, I have never seen the new transducers go bad. Not once. Maybe I was just lucky.

 

[Ray70]

I just used the make offer and grabbed 2 to stick in the parts inventory.
As for "Matched sets" whenever I replace a transducer or gage I always wire up a cord and use Utility power to set the " system" to about 59.5 hz. ( around here the utility is just shy of 60hz.
This way I now have a newly "matched set" Transducer and gage that I know reads accurately.

 

[Triple Jim]

That's the cleanest, whitest wiring I've ever seen on a generator.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Its a nice unit. 1984, refurbed at 698 hours in 1993... only has 717 hours on it now.

 

[Guyfang]

When you see NO rust on the TB hold down screws, you KNOW its not been issued to a unit.

 

[Tinstar]

Reviving this thread.
Good info

Just ordered one for my MEP-002A Resurrection.

 

[Tinstar]

Received the new replacement transducer.

Question about the wiring.
The +- wires are obviously easy to figure out.


What about the other two marked L?



Original one is marked 1 and 2



Looks like it wouldn’t matter but I’m not sure.

 

[jamawieb]

It doesnt matter on the hookup of the LL

 

[Guyfang]

"L" is international for AC. No matter how you hook it up.

 

[Tinstar]

"L" is international for AC. No matter how you hook it up.

Now I will never forget that bit of info

Thanks!!

 

[Chainbreaker]

Just be mindful when you see a circuit/component labeled L1 or L2.

"The “L1” and “L2” designations refer to the two poles of a 120 VAC supply unless otherwise noted. L1 is the “hot” conductor, and L2 is the grounded (“neutral”) conductor".

 

[Tinstar]

Just be mindful when you see a circuit/component labeled L1 or L2.

"The “L1” and “L2” designations refer to the two poles of a 120 VAC supply unless otherwise noted. L1 is the “hot” conductor, and L2 is the grounded (“neutral”) conductor".

Very important info!!

Appreciate it

 

[Guyfang]

And when you see L1, L2 and L3, that's three phases.