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MEP-002A 30-Amp 125/250-Volt Black 4-Wire Grounding Convenience Outlet

catman393

New member
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0
1
Location
Portsmouth, RI
Hello All,

Has anyone here ever added a 30-Amp 125/250-Volt Black 4-Wire Grounding Convenience Outlet directly to their MEP-002A or MEP-003A? I'd like to add one to mine so that I don't have to use the TB1 connections.

My thought was to connect a piece of 10/3 SJ00W to the same terminals that TB1 connects on CB1. For a mounting location I was going to use the blank space under the "120 VOLTS AC" name plate.

The plan was to cut a hole just big enough to fit a L1430RZ plug through it and then put a weatherproof cover like is on the 120 outlets.

In theory it should all work just find and still act the same as if it were using TB1 but with the convenience of using all of my existing cables and have no wires exposed to the elements when not in use. Seems like a win win.

BUT before I go and blow up my amazing generator I wanted to ask the sages if prior knowledge says that's a bad idea!

Thanks in advance for any wisdom and advice!
 

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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2,058
113
Location
Efland, NC
I put a 50a outlet on my 003. I used a surface mount box with a wet locations cover instead of drilling a hole in the connector box.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,265
2,960
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Hello All,

Has anyone here ever added a 30-Amp 125/250-Volt Black 4-Wire Grounding Convenience Outlet directly to their MEP-002A or MEP-003A? I'd like to add one to mine so that I don't have to use the TB1 connections.

My thought was to connect a piece of 10/3 SJ00W to the same terminals that TB1 connects on CB1. For a mounting location I was going to use the blank space under the "120 VOLTS AC" name plate.

The plan was to cut a hole just big enough to fit a L1430RZ plug through it and then put a weatherproof cover like is on the 120 outlets.

In theory it should all work just find and still act the same as if it were using TB1 but with the convenience of using all of my existing cables and have no wires exposed to the elements when not in use. Seems like a win win.

BUT before I go and blow up my amazing generator I wanted to ask the sages if prior knowledge says that's a bad idea!

Thanks in advance for any wisdom and advice!
It should work, just use a good 4 gauge cable.
 

catman393

New member
20
0
1
Location
Portsmouth, RI
So I added it today. Boy was that a pain. Whatever that big black block with the wires running thought it 50 times was a big pain. Anywho here are some pictures for your enjoyment. I connected the hot leads to terminal on CB1 where L1 and L3 connect. For common I connected it to the output selector switch where L0 connects. I connected ground one of the bolts in the front of the cabinet that bolts it to the skid. L0 and Ground are electrically the same but I wanted to have them connected independently regardless. I used 10/3 SJOOW for L1, L3, and L0. I used a separate piece of 10AWG green wire for the ground.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444617641.409823.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1444617660.393452.jpg
 

catman393

New member
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0
1
Location
Portsmouth, RI
Wiring question for you guys. The norm is to wire the hots to L1 and L3. I was thinking that since I only want to supply 120 to my house why couldn't I just connect both hots to L1 and then it would seem to that it would balance the load from my breaker panel much better and allow the 56A to be used by either side of the breaker panel. Obviously the 240 appliances (hot water heater, stove, a/c) wouldn't work but I doubt my 002A could handle any of them anyway.

I have a feeling it would be bad to do what I'm suggesting I just can't figure out why. Thanks for advice!
 

LuckyDog

Member
394
11
18
Location
Freedom, NH
No reply yet, because it is a bit sticky to do what you want. Maybe not sticky, but there is much to consider.

WARNING what I am about to tell you may be illegal to do in you municipality.
Contact a certified electrician. Caveat Emptor.

In 120 Single Phase, the output is across L1 - L3. With the generator not running, and the switch in the 120 Single Phase position. (i.e. straight up and down) See if L1 is shorted to L0 and the Ground lug.

If L0 and L1 are not shorted together, you are floating in 120 Single Phase mode. You have all 56 Amps available across L1-L3 at 120 volts but neither side is really low/ground potential.
To wire you house with this, connect your two poles to L3; connect L1 to your neutral connect: your service panel ground to the ground lug. Proper isolation from the grid is required.

If L0 and L1 are shorted together and ground, you have a grounded system.
Do not drive a ground stake at the generator. Connect L3 to your two service poles; connect L1 to neutral; connect ground to the ground lug. DISCONNECT L0/L1 from the ground lug. It is easy to do. AGIAN, Proper isolation from the grid is required.

Make sure you use proper transfer switches and proper gauge wires.

Good luck, and I provide no warranty to the work.
 

Danbray

New member
2
0
1
Location
Tennessee
Sorry to revive a dead thread. I need to wire this mep-002a into an off grid inverter/charger. Right now I have hot, neutral, and ground into the inverter end with the other end just plugged in the convenience outlet. I know that 120 is across l1 and l3. My question is, which wire goes where? Do I run my black (hot ) to l3, white (common) to l1, and ground to l0?
 

jamawieb

Well-known member
1,437
556
113
Location
Ripley/TN
Sorry to revive a dead thread. I need to wire this mep-002a into an off grid inverter/charger. Right now I have hot, neutral, and ground into the inverter end with the other end just plugged in the convenience outlet. I know that 120 is across l1 and l3. My question is, which wire goes where? Do I run my black (hot ) to l3, white (common) to l1, and ground to l0?
If your running 120 independently and not wanting 240volt, you need to have the reconnection switch (located under the access door next to the main breaker) turned to the 12oclock position, which is 120 single phase. Then connect your Hot to L3, common to L0 and ground to the ground stud which is located on the frame (some people connect the common and ground together on L0). It's been alittle while since I've used 120 single phase so check to make sure L3 is the hot leg with a multimeter, it will either be L3 or L1 but I'm 99% sure L3 will be your hot leg.
 
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