MEP-002A Exhaust Question plus Machine Resurrection

[Mullaney]

Just a tip... you should consider closing off the ~ 1/2" opening where the wires would normally feed into the load terminals on the AC Reconnection box. I had one of my boxes taken out by mice and it was up on its trailer like yours. Mice love to nest in the bottom of that box in winter!

Several ways to close off mouse access to box internals:

1. Screen off the interior opening located in rear of load terminals that leads down to the transformer area with hardware cloth.

2. If no need to retain access to the load terminals you could screw or glue a solid flap (metal, wood, or?) across the external wire entry opening slot on external hinged flap.

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Steel Wool stuffed onto openings will help with that problem as well. Apparently the little "so and so's" don't like to chew on the wire. That stuff is relatively cheap at a hardware store too...

 

[Chainbreaker]

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Steel Wool stuffed onto openings will help with that problem as well. Apparently the little "so and so's" don't like to chew on the wire. That stuff is relatively cheap at a hardware store too...

Agree that "Steel Wool" can provide good mouse barrier deterrent (holes, etc). However, I would be a bit nervous that if not jammed in tightly or otherwise secured firmly in place that the Steel Wool might become dislodged and end up touching load terminals. Though, it would surely be a good light show!

 

[Tinstar]

I use steel wool in other things for mice prevention. Works well
Also would be too nervous to use it in the lug box since the 002A vibrates so much.

Now that I have a plug hard wired, I will not need to access the lugs again.
Made sure the lugs were nice and super tight.
I did not use any anti corrosion on the bare wire.
I might go back and do that.

I have a lot of aluminum sheets so I might fabricate something to block access but is also removable. Could use some Dzus fasteners and paint it to match.
That hardware cloth is also a great idea.

We have about 15 cats (seriously) that are always around the house and buildings.
None are “house” cats.
Maybe 3 let me get close enough to pet them.
Not a big mouse problem here, but mice could always run the gauntlet and get in somewhere.
Saw one of the cats eating a small snake a few days ago. Never seen that before.
My dog helps keep the cat population from getting much bigger.

Generator itself stays covered and have a canvas tarp on top of the bows.
Will probably have a cover made to cover everything like the original did.

The MEP-002A is old and loud and I absolutely love it!!

 

[Tinstar]

I painted the oil dipstick handle.
It needed painting and I was out of 383 paint.
Didn’t want black or red and it now matches all my other equipment.
Not tactical but works

I still need to paint trailer and reinstall the fuel can holders on one side.
Will leave the other two off.
Also still need to install the NOS Slave Port. It's been either too hot or my lower back says no.

Will also install a 12w Solargizer for the battery's.

 

[Guyfang]

Be careful tightening the load terminals. They strip very easy.

 

[Tinstar]

Be careful tightening the load terminals. They strip very easy.

Ok
Will do

I got them pretty tight and they all felt good and strong.
Will leave them alone for now and might apply anti-corrosion on the wire ends at a later date.

 

[Tinstar]

Picked up two Stainless Steel 55 gallon drums last night.
They are food grade and used once.
Clean out will be easy, They both had vanilla in them.

These are my new extended run fuel tanks for the MEP-002A
Not sure if to mount one and the other a spare or just leave both loose and just keep on trailer.

 

[rickf]

Nice! But kind of overkill for storing diesel fuel don't you think?
You will never have to worry about rust and I cannot honestly think of what I would put in there for survival stuff, Whisky? LOL.
If you got them for a good price I can understand it but you can get steel oil drums for 20-25 bucks each all day long, and all they had in them was motor oil. Adding 50 gallons of low sulfur diesel to the residual left over oil will actually help the engine.
Anyway, they are your barrels to use as you see fit. As far as placement, you will have roughly 400 lbs. each when full so keep that in mind of planning to move the trailer with full drums of diesel.
Getting the drums off the trailer full will require a loader or equipment.

 

[Tinstar]

Overkill?
Of course!

Bought the remaining last two this morning.
Not sure what to do with them but the price was too good to pass up.
No need to store drinking water since we are on a well.
I love the whisky idea actually, great to barter with.

I have regular steel 55 gallon drums but didn't want to use those since they can rust.
Was actually looking for an aluminum tank when I came across these.

I think I will just store them full on a pallet and use the tractor to move them in position when needed.
The Aux fuel hose is plenty long enough to reach.
That way I don't have to worry about dealing with them on the gen trailer.
I will add two-cycle oil and seafoam when they get filled so I won't need to mess with it later.

The MEP-002A doesn't use a lot of fuel so two barrels should be plenty for most extended outages.
If not, I have a 300 gallon tank I keep full for the tractors, etc.

 

[rickf]

Just remember that modern diesel does not last forever like the old stuff used to. So be sure to get some stabilizer for it. The govt. has even managed to screw up diesel fuel.

""I love the whisky idea actually, great to barter with.""
Exactly what I was thinking, liquid money after the shtf. Water would have to be extremely purified to keep over a long time. Then again, any clean water is better than no water at all.

 

[Tinstar]

Just remember that modern diesel does not last forever like the old stuff used to. So be sure to get some stabilizer for it. The govt. has even managed to screw up diesel fuel.

Great point and noted.
Will just rotate it every 6 months or so.

The drums will fit on the front of the trailer floor if I relocate the tool box.
But I think the pallet idea is best due to the weight and ease of handling with the tractor.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Great point and noted.
Will just rotate it every 6 months or so.

The barrels will fit on the front of the trailer floor if I relocate the toolbox.
But I think the pallet idea is best due to the weight and ease of handling with the tractor.

I mounted a single 50 gal aluminum refer fuel tank on front of my M116A1 trailer. However, moving & hooking up trailer to truck with "full fuel load" up front was challenging, if not a bit precarious at times when using a High-Lift Farm Jack to lift & align. I ended up having to spend some $$ to find an A2 jack leg to retrofit on trailer so I could "safely" raise/lower trailer pintle up to truck hitch.

So, unless you do the jack leg conversion... locating drums on Pallet(s) is a safe alternative and independently transportable around property if needed for other fueling requirements.

 

[Tinstar]

I mounted a single 50 gal aluminum refer fuel tank on front of my M116A1 trailer. However, moving & hooking up trailer to truck with "full fuel load" up front was challenging, if not a bit precarious at times when using a High-Lift Farm Jack to lift & align. I ended up having to spend some $$ to find an A2 jack leg to retrofit on trailer so I could "safely" raise/lower trailer pintle up to truck hitch.

So, unless you do the jack leg conversion... locating drums on Pallet(s) is a safe alternative and independently transportable around property if needed for other fueling requirements.

You had mentioned earlier in this thread about your fuel tank and I was looking for exactly that when these popped up.

I have a jack I need to install on the trailer.
It’s not the A3 version but the M1101 type jack.
Exactly the same jack, same manufacturer, just painted gloss black for the civilian market and a foot pad instead of a wheel.

Even without the fuel drums, the trailer needs to be level to run.