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MEP-002A No Fuel and DC Breaker Popping

Light in the Dark

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I have used both and the "square style" is not even close to the quality of the "Facet Gold" round body style. You can find them for $100.00 even at this Pegasus auto racing store.
All other Facet golds require modification (or reducer/enlarging bushings) right? If it were your money, would you go with the OEM with in-line EMI, or one of the alternate builds without, but with bushings?
 

rustystud

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All other Facet golds require modification (or reducer/enlarging bushings) right? If it were your money, would you go with the OEM with in-line EMI, or one of the alternate builds without, but with bushings?
You can find the correct one without the suppressors on them or needing bushings. I don't remember the model number off-hand but their out there. If I remember correctly there were 3 models to chose from. They just had different working pressures. Anyone of them would work for the generator application.
 

Light in the Dark

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I had looked in the wiki actually previously, but each listed model needed some sort of adaptation to be correct. I just bought 2 of the OEM jobs. This Tier 2 is suddenly costing me more than I anticipated...
 

Guyfang

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I have said it before, and will say it again. Tier 2 is not always what it should be. Lowest bidder, and often, when the contract gets close to the end, things do not always get done right. That is not supposed to mean ALL Tier 2 work is bad. Its not. I know guys who did, and do it, and I trust them. But never think you are getting something great because it has a Tier 2 sticker on it.
 

Light in the Dark

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I have said it before, and will say it again. Tier 2 is not always what it should be. Lowest bidder, and often, when the contract gets close to the end, things do not always get done right. That is not supposed to mean ALL Tier 2 work is bad. Its not. I know guys who did, and do it, and I trust them. But never think you are getting something great because it has a Tier 2 sticker on it.
I assumed the unit would be running, as it had 5 hours on it since the rebuild... foolish assumption by a newbie at these things. Oh well... should be a lifetime unit once I am done with it.
 

Guyfang

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In Warrant School, one of the most important things, one of my TAC's kicked and pounded into my head was this. "Assuming, will ALWAYS get you into trouble."

Oh, did that man make my life into an Significant Emotional Experience.
 

Light in the Dark

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So I got a couple of hours to play today... wired up (1) new Facet pump (with suppressor), and wouldn't you know it, she ran!

What I determined after surprising myself today, was that the throttle cable on this one seemingly needs to be adjusted or replaced (pulling out and locking is fine, but no hertz adjustment). Actually I take that back, I can hear the rpms correspond slightly to my turning efforts, but the gauge does not respond in kind.

Also the ammeter is showing load (just below 25%) with nothing attached, nor the breaker flipped on.

Need to read up more on both of these topics. Just happy to see that I don't have a complete dud! Will wire up the second aux pump hopefully soon, and cross my fingers... all will still work.
 

Guyfang

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If you have a multimeter that reads hertz, plug it in at the 110 volt outlet and start the set. Look at the multimeter, then keeping one eye on it, adjust the engine speed. If it goes up and down on your multimeter, then you need to check the freq transducer, or the hertz meter itself.
 

jamawieb

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So I got a couple of hours to play today... wired up (1) new Facet pump (with suppressor), and wouldn't you know it, she ran!

What I determined after surprising myself today, was that the throttle cable on this one seemingly needs to be adjusted or replaced (pulling out and locking is fine, but no hertz adjustment). Actually I take that back, I can hear the rpms correspond slightly to my turning efforts, but the gauge does not respond in kind.

Also the ammeter is showing load (just below 25%) with nothing attached, nor the breaker flipped on.

Need to read up more on both of these topics. Just happy to see that I don't have a complete dud! Will wire up the second aux pump hopefully soon, and cross my fingers... all will still work.
If you can hear a change in your RPMs then your throttle (hertz) cable is working. If the hertz gauge is not reading, 99% of the time it's going to be the failure of the transducer and of course, you can only buy used, unless you want to spend mega bucks. A cheap solution is to buy a kill-a-watt meter for around $20 that you can plug into the convenience outlet. That will allow you to monitor hertz's and voltage with a digital gauge.

With the ammeter problem, I would work the reconnection switch and V/M switch (that is located right below the ammeter) a few dozen times. Corrosion can build up on the terminals and cause false readings. These are all common problems with these units, gauges especially due to the intense vibrations they face.
 
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doghead

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You are pulling the throttle almost all the way out, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Light in the Dark

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If you can hear a change in your RPMs then your throttle (hertz) cable is working. If the hertz gauge is not reading, 99% of the time it's going to be the failure of the transducer and of course, you can only buy used, unless you want to spend mega bucks. A cheap solution is to buy a kill-a-watt meter for around $20 that you can plug into the convenience outlet. That will allow you to monitor hertz's and voltage with a digital gauge.

With the ammeter problem, I would work the reconnection switch and V/M switch (that is located right below the ammeter) a few dozen times. Corrosion can build up on the terminals and cause false readings. These are all common problems with these units, gauges especially due to the intense vibrations they face.
Like this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/P3-International-Kill-A-Watt-EZ-Meter-P4460/202196388
 

Light in the Dark

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You are pulling the throttle almost all the way out, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yup, all the way out (shaft comes out further than on my 803As... so I thought I actually pulled it TOO far). Same issue at idle speed too (though thats not a good determining factor... just an observation).
 

robertsears1

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If the engine is not getting faster as the throttle is pulled out, check on the flywheel end. You may need to remove some sheet metal to see. My 003a started doing that and a spring that attaches to a lever up there had slipped down, probably because I was wrongly slowing the engine prior to shutdown (before I was educated here about that).

Robert
 

Light in the Dark

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The throttle does increase as the cable is pulled out, as it also changes as the rotational hertz control is moved.
 

Light in the Dark

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If the engine is not getting faster as the throttle is pulled out, check on the flywheel end. You may need to remove some sheet metal to see. My 003a started doing that and a spring that attaches to a lever up there had slipped down, probably because I was wrongly slowing the engine prior to shutdown (before I was educated here about that).

Robert
Tell me more about doing it 'wrong'?
 

Light in the Dark

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Most people (although not all) think that running these at lower than 1,800 RPM is hard on the VR. Therefore, leave the RPM set at 1,800 with no idle for warm up or warm down.
Ahh, gotcha. Thanks. I see no purpose to running these things slow. They are prime movers right... so let them run at their designed speed.
 

Light in the Dark

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That's it. I use a small extension cord from the convenience outlet to the meter for better viewing.
Will arrive Tuesday. My biggest enemy on these toys is finding time on the weekends between home improvements before winter, and daylight. Gotta love the time every year when I leave for work in the dark, and come home in the dark.
 
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