MEP-002A Up and Running with Gauge Issues

[rbivens]

So, my recently acquired MEP-002A is up and running, but not without issues. Here are the steps I followed:

* Replaced fuel filters
* Blew out fuel lines
* Cleaned fuel tank
* Replaced air filter
* Replaced oil filter
* Filled with oil and fuel
* Replaced batteries and created jumper that was missing

After all this, it started in about 10 seconds! So far so good.
I ran it for about 10 minutes. Oil pressure was good. I plugged in a lamp to the convenience panel and it worked. Weather turned bad, so I had to wait until today to continue testing...

It started right up again, and I let it run for nearly an hour. No leaks, oil pressure good, so I followed the following steps:

* Battery voltage at 27.6 volts, but climbed to 28 as it warmed up
* Adjusted cycles to 60 HZ
* Convenience outlet could easily be adjusted to 120v using adjustment knob
* Service panel voltage correct for 120/240 single phase
* Hertz meter easily adjusted to 60 with RPM adjustment

So far so good, but I noticed a few problems. After an hour of running, the intake vents didn't open. Is this normal for 35-40 degree (F) temperature outside?

Also, my AC voltage gauge and Percent Rated Current gauge were acting very strange. Both bounce around very erratically. The current gauge stays near the low end of the dial, but bounces around at a regular interval. The voltage gauge stays near the top end of the dial and is nearly pegged out. Voltage adjustments have no effect on the voltage dial, and the selector switch on the panel is in the correct position for 240/120 1 phase (all the way to the right).

I tried to post a video here but couldn't. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Ray

 

[Triple Jim]

If the generator isn't loaded and it's 40F out, the shutters, which are actually the air outlet, won't open much, if any. At least that's the way my 003A is. Keep an eye on them though, because on a warm day and under load, they should open quite a bit. Last summer, while powering my house, my 003's shutters were about 3/4 open.

Are you saying that if you measure both sides of the line at the output lugs, you can adjust to a steady 120-0-120, or 240 L1 to L3, and it's just the meters that are reading incorrectly?

 

[rbivens]

Thanks for the quick reply, Triple Jim, and the input on the shutters.

Yes, the output lugs at L1-L3 are 240 and steady. L1-L0 and L3-L0 are both 120 and steady. The gauges are going wild, but the volt meter is steady as can be.

I did notice that once I shut the unit down, the AC voltmeter slowly moved to the left but didn't move to its full stop position. I tapped it a couple of times and it moved down the rest of the way. So this meter is probably bad, regardless of any other problems there may be. The fact that both meters are wildly fluctuating bothers me, but I suppose both meters could be bad.

Thanks again,
Ray

 

[rbivens]

BTW, I couldn't post the video here, but I captured a frame.

This doesn't capture the erratic movement, but imagine the current gauge bouncing from 0-50 and the voltage needle bouncing off of the right side of the gauge. All the while, my hand-held digital meter reads correct, steady values at the lugs and at the convenience outlets.

Ray

 

[Triple Jim]

I'd want to find the cause of and cure the fluctuating gauges. I can envision something like an intermittent partial short in the wiring that's really drawing current intermittently, for example. But since you're getting steady voltage, it looks like your generator is working fine.

 

[JOateyNV]

Had the same problem when I first started my rebuilt MEP-003. Checked TM and then ask the same question. Was told to switch the selector switch by the convenience outlet under the cover to the correct position for the voltage. Mine started working correctly. Or you may check the grounds. Hope this helps. Jeff

 

[rbivens]

Thanks Jeff. The reconnection switch is in the correct position (all the way to the right), but I haven't tried all three configurations yet.
I've checked for loose connections, but I have a feeling that the control box really needs going through, along with all the grounds...

Ray

 

[RichardR]

Ray,

I believe that many of these gennys have fluctuating gauges because of vibration. The engines vibrate quite a bit and even though the control boxes are mounted on vibration isolators, the rubber mountings are old and ineffective. The meters themselves may have developed bad needle bearings because of the vibration, and the needle doesn't swing smoothly over its entire range without catching as you indicated in post #3. Bottom line is that many of the meters are past their prime and could stand to be rebuilt or replaced. Most folks just put up with it and don't depend on the meters to give highly accurate measurements. If you are interested in accuracy, your hand held meter is the way to go.

I would think that a properly balanced and lubricated meter movement would work OK in this vibration environment for a while, but only an optimist would expect it to last as long as most of these meters have already lasted.

You can open one of these meters (even though they say they are sealed and not to be opened) by unscrewing the ring around the can enclosure on the back using a large pin wrench. If you break the ring (which may happen even if you are gentle and careful) you can reassemble it satisfactorily with RTV in place of the ring. I have never tried to balance and lubricate one of these meters so I cannot say how successful that repair might be, but I have opened many just to clean the faceplate and glass without any visible permanent damage.

Don't let me discourage you from further investigation of electrical problems that might cause the meter fluctuations. You can check that most simply by bridging your fluctuating panel meter with your hand held meter set to a suitable scale. But be aware of the vibration problem.

Richard

 

[rbivens]

Thanks for your input, Richard.

I've resigned myself to replacing the AC voltmeter, since it's "sticky" anyway. I'm still suspicious of other electrical problems, though, and since I haven't gone through the electrical system thoroughly I thought I'd do that as well. More specifically, I've read how CVT/CT problems may present themselves in these gauges. I have the -34 TM, so I'll at least run through the test procedures in there.

It occurred to me that I should be able to check the input voltage of both gauges (regardless of their scale) and see wild fluctuations if the gauges are operating properly. Does this sound reasonable? Does anyone know the voltages that these gauges operate at so I can test them without blowing my multimeter? Are they AC or DC?

If anyone in the forum has a working AC voltmeter (MEP-002A) for a fair price, please let me know.

Thanks,
Ray

 

[rbivens]

I finally managed to get a video of the behavior uploaded.

http://s1288.beta.photobucket.com/user/bivenra/library/MEP-002A

Just to reiterate, the MEP-002A was under no load and output voltage as tested with my handheld digital multimeter was steady at 120/240 from both the lugs and the convenience outlets. All other gauges work properly.

I still need to test the CVT/CT and go through the electrical system.

Ray

 

[Triple Jim]

The Current meter seems to be bouncing off its zero stop from vibration. If your hand held meter says the voltage is steady at 120/240, then Richard's theory is looking good. See if the current meter starts behaving when you put a load on the generator and the needle comes off the stop.

 

[rbivens]

Will do, Triple. Just waiting for warmer weather!
And I'll post my results...