MEP-002A will not crank...Need some help!

[1FAST4]

Hi all,
I have a MEP-002A that is our Backup Whole-House power souce. I last ran it with a load about a month and a half ago during a power outage. At that time it ran for about 3 hours without issue. I normanly fire it up every other month just to keep the batteries topped off. About two weeks ago I added a NOCO 5X2 battery charger/optimizer/maintainer to better maintain the batteries. Today, I went out to fire the 002A up to confirm all was good but it would not crank over at all.

There is 24.5v at the batteris, power to the heater, the prime and to the Control Panel but no crank...I don't even get the clicking that you get from the battery voltage being too low. The batteries are Costco Interstate 51R's purchased 3/2015.

I don't know where to start with the troubleshooting so any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Heres where id start, do you have panel lights? When you turn the start switch to preheat do you hear a click? In run do you have fuel pumps?

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[rickf]

Take the cables off of the starter and clean them and put them back. Check all of your battery connections. It sounds like a bad starter connection.

 

[1FAST4]

Heres where id start, do you have panel lights? When you turn the start switch to preheat do you hear a click? In run do you have fuel pumps?

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Yes to all.

 

[1FAST4]

I'm going to get a couple of new batteries tomorrow just in case and I will also check and clean starter connections.

 

[Ray70]

Also check the starter disconnect switch located just to the right of the oil filter.
If the contacts aren't closed the machine won't crank.
It's the small cover held on by a wing nut, just to the right of the oil filter.
This is the switch that disconnects the starter once the machine is running, which allows you to hold the start switch while waiting for teh oil pressure to close the oil switch.
Test it by disconnecting the connector and see if you have continuity through it.
If not, put a jumper wire across the 2 pins on the harness side and try cranking the engine, if it cranks you need to adjust the contact under the wing nutted cover.

 

[1FAST4]

Also check the starter disconnect switch located just to the right of the oil filter.
If the contacts aren't closed the machine won't crank.
It's the small cover held on by a wing nut, just to the right of the oil filter.
This is the switch that disconnects the starter once the machine is running, which allows you to hold the start switch while waiting for teh oil pressure to close the oil switch.
Test it by disconnecting the connector and see if you have continuity through it.
If not, put a jumper wire across the 2 pins on the harness side and try cranking the engine, if it cranks you need to adjust the contact under the wing nutted cover.

Thanks Roy...I will check that out as well...funny, I was just reading about that in another post and in the TM.

 

[Guyfang]

Ray's suggestion, (Checking S7) is where to start. Do not spend money on new batteries. First PROVE they are bad. Throwing money at a gen set might, if your pockets are deep enough, and you are maybe retired and have time, fix something. But this is not the case here. Take J16/P16 canon plug apart. Insert a paper clip in pins A&B. Then try and start it. If it turns over, then get into the -34 TM and learn how to Check and adjust the S7.

 

[1FAST4]

Ray's suggestion, (Checking S7) is where to start. Do not spend money on new batteries. First PROVE they are bad. Throwing money at a gen set might, if your pockets are deep enough, and you are maybe retired and have time, fix something. But this is not the case here. Take J16/P16 canon plug apart. Insert a paper clip in pins A&B. Then try and start it. If it turns over, then get into the -34 TM and learn how to Check and adjust the S7.

Guyfang...I agree; I will check the S7 as you and Roy suggested before going the new battery route.

 

[1FAST4]

I checked the Lockout Switch (S7) via the canon plug and it has continuity when NOT running. I'm now testing the Master Switch per the TM but don't really understand how to test the "Start" position across the three terminals...see attached pic.

 

[Scoobyshep]

I checked the Lockout Switch (S7) via the canon plug and it has continuity when NOT running. I'm now testing the Master Switch per the TM but don't really understand how to test the "Start" position across the three terminals...see attached pic.

11 to 13 then 11 to 15. 25 to 27 then 25 to 38

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[1FAST4]

11 to 13 then 11 to 15. 25 to 27 then 25 to 38

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Ok, good, that's what I did. Continuity on the Master Switch is all correct as outlined in the TM.

 

[1FAST4]

Ok, so after all the troubleshooting I gave the bad Battery(s) idea another shot. Run to Costco and grabbed 2 new 51R's, installed them and the generator fired right up.

Thanks to you all!! It's nice knowing I can pop into SS and always get help and a bit of schooling...the good kind.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Ok, so after all the troubleshooting I gave the bad Battery(s) idea another shot. Run to Costco and grabbed 2 new 51R's, installed them and the generator fired right up.

Thanks to you all!! It's nice knowing I can pop into SS and always get help and a bit of schooling...the good kind.

Glad to hear, my next suggestion would have been to check voltage on start attempts or preheat.

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[rickf]

I completely missed the purchase date on the batteries in the first post. I saw the battery maintainer and missed the batteries thinking they were also new. So the batteries were 7 years old and that would explain it.

 

[Ray70]

Yup, keep in mind static battery voltage means virtually nothing at all.
The only real test for a battery is a load test. Old batteries will often hold a surface charge that makes them appear good, but the slightest load and that surface charge becomes nearly ZERO, but then immediately returns to >12V as soon as the load is removed.
If you should so desire, I think the cheapo 100A battery load testers are only about $20 at harbor freight.

 

[1FAST4]

I had been have issues with the batteries holding a good chage over the past year or so hence the NOCO maintainer.

A 100 bucks a battery @ Costco...worth it!...a little more knowledge from you all, priceless!