Mep 003a fuel pump connectors

[rickf]

Told you you had it. And the home made flap wheel is what I used on mine with 600 wet or dry paper and WD 40. Taped the inside edge of the paper to a wood dowel and wrapped the paper around the dowel a dozen times or so by using the drill on slow. Then wiped the WD-40 inside and spun the drill for a few seconds and checked it. After a couple tries I was done. Sprayed it out with carb cleaned and lubed it up with 3 n one oil and put it all back together. Those balls should pop loose with a light tap from a screwdriver handle. Should just be stuck with the same gunk and as the piston was. I would test the pump for running before bolting it all in, just plug it in and turn on the switch and then hold the pump bracket against the frame for the ground connection and it should happily rattle away. Put you finger over the inlet and you should feel a little suction.

 

[Brother Hec]

Thank you. I couldn’t have done it without the helpful advice I received from this group. I look forward to helping others where I can.

 

[Brother Hec]

Working on second pump now. It is severely frozen with varnish; more so than 1st pump. The plunger/piston is stuck in bottom of cylinder. I have been spraying with brake cleaner and PB Blaster for about a day/night. It seems like it might have galled or mechanically bound up. If so… is there a tool that can reach down into tube to grab plunger top? I will continue to soak plunger and try to tap plunger out on wood surface.

 

[rickf]

I have found the most rust penetrants do nothing on varnish, brake cleaner will sometimes but acetone or carb cleaner is the best. Acetone may not be too good for the wiring if it gets into that so I would stick with carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Both evaporate fast in most cases so you have to spray and tap pretty quickly. I used 2+2 carb cleaner for years and it did not evaporate quite as fast and I seem to remember that maybe STP was another that didn't evaporate quickly? The longer it hangs around the longer it has to do its job. This may sound strange but gasoline, todays modern gasoline has up to 10% ethanol in it and is a fantastic solvent. You could stand the pump up on end and fill it with gas and let it sit for a day. Have you tried tapping it down in further? That may break it loose.

 

[Brother Hec]

Rick.
I got it out! Your original solution is what worked…. Patience, but I add a HEAVY dose of stubborn resolve. The plunger was galled. Thank God it came out after banging it HARD on a wood surface. I have polished plunger and cylinder with 400 grit waterproof paper (not garnet paper because it falls apart and leaves grit). Thank you again. I will post later about pump I found that is close “drop in” for factory pump that costs $45…. Not $200.

 

[rickf]

I can tell you right now that pump is probably not the right pump. These pumps are pass through pumps that are designed so that one pump can pump trough another that is not running. Most of the pumps out there will not do that and that is why they are cheaper. You also need to pay attention to the pressures. I think this pump will be fine once you clean it up, They are not a machined fit to begin with. And remember, you still have the aux pump as a spare unless you plan to use that to run from a large drum or extra cans. A 003 will burn about a gallon an hour at full load so that ten gallon tank will last you 9 hours to be safe without running out. If you are going to need more than that then hook up the auxiliary too a 55 gallon drum. That pump only runs when the main tank gets down to a certain level and then the aux pump runs to fill the main tank back up and shuts off.

 

[Brother Hec]

Rick.
I must correct something I said about the pump I found. It is NOT a drop in for OEM pump because it is NOT a flow-through design nor does it have an internal screen. However, it is 24 V.

As an update, I tested the second pump (E2 position) after I cleaned it up and reassembled. It did not buzz when juiced up. I checked conductivity across EMI filter and did not show short (no conductivity). Assuming it is not burned/shorted. I then checked conductivity across pump. I could not get a reading. If pump was good …. Wouldn’t it show some conductivity across hot wire and body/mount of pump?

If pump is bad… I was thinking to use pump in E2 position since E1 pumps fuel to it. Would this idea work? I know that I can also pull the Aux pump over to E2 position as well. Now I would have 2 flow-through pumps in-line and could use “other” pump as Aux. what do you think?

 

[Ray70]

You have lots of options here. You Do NOT need to run 2 redundant pumps, one is perfectly fine, just have a backup plan if that pump craps out when you need it most.
You can remove the solenoid and put the Aux pump in line with the other good pump you have.
Or just use the aftermarket replacement you have.
You don't need much pressure at all, a few psi is all you need to deliver to the IP.

 

[rickf]

If you have no continuity from the plug to the body of the pump then that filter could very well be bad. The do not short out, they fail open circuit. Cut it out and crimp the wires together and check the pump again. I thought you wanted to keep the system as it was. If you put that new pump in then you will not be able to use the original pumps with it. It will be one or the other. The military pumps are pretty much indestructible as long as they are kept clean, and the filter is eliminated. Aftermarket pumps, especially cheap ones like that one, have a bad reputation for longevity.

 

[Brother Hec]

Rick/Ray.
Thank you for clarifications. My goal is to use original pumps if possible. I will keep working to resuscitate E2 (secondary pump). First step is to cut out EMI filter and retest. If dead… I will move Aux pump over to E2 position. After working on these pumps, Ive realized how simple they are and like the durable design.

 

[Guyfang]

You all have been great! Great work.

Will just add, as I need to get back in bed, you can buy a cheap "drop in pump" and hook it up in the E1 position. That gives you both of the other ones.

Will just add, as I need to get back in bed. My appendix burst, and am at last home again. Will try and get back on line later.
Guy

 

[Ray70]

Take your time and rest up Guy... We need to to be well again!
Best wishes for a speedy and full recovery!

 

[Brother Hec]

I agree. I hope you heal up fast GuyFang!

question. What are the hose end fittings called so that I can buy more (if needed) to rebuild my fuel lines (hard and liable to break/crack). Hose end fittings are specialized and seem to be removable. Do you tighten male/female ends together so that you can put a wrench on to disassemble hose collar?

 

[Mullaney]

You all have been great! Great work.

Will just add, as I need to get back in bed, you can buy a cheap "drop in pump" and hook it up in the E1 position. That gives you both of the other ones.

Will just add, as I need to get back in bed. My appendix burst, and am at last home again. Will try and get back on line later.
Guy

.
Parts "going bad" on the inside is wicked stuff!
Glad somebody was able to get you to the hospital quickly.

I'v had a few friends with that problem. Basically the Doc cuts you open, pulls out your parts, soaks up the bile and general nastyness, removes the appendix, then dumps your parts back in. I understand that you "rumble" for several days while things rearrange themselves...

Best Speedy Recovery to you Guy!

 

[chucky]

You all have been great! Great work.

Will just add, as I need to get back in bed, you can buy a cheap "drop in pump" and hook it up in the E1 position. That gives you both of the other ones.

Will just add, as I need to get back in bed. My appendix burst, and am at last home again. Will try and get back on line later.
Guy

And just where have you been ?????? Shacked up with some low moral type for a week or LOCKED up ?

 

[Light in the Dark]

You all have been great! Great work.

Will just add, as I need to get back in bed, you can buy a cheap "drop in pump" and hook it up in the E1 position. That gives you both of the other ones.

Will just add, as I need to get back in bed. My appendix burst, and am at last home again. Will try and get back on line later.
Guy

At least it sounds like your doc had the right TMs at hand to sort out the issue . Rest up!

 

[Ray70]

Now that was funny.....

 

[Guyfang]

If you only knew how much it hurts to laugh...........................

 

[Guyfang]

I agree. I hope you heal up fast GuyFang!

question. What are the hose end fittings called so that I can buy more (if needed) to rebuild my fuel lines (hard and liable to break/crack). Hose end fittings are specialized and seem to be removable. Do you tighten male/female ends together so that you can put a wrench on to disassemble hose collar? (Correct)
I have done this often. Bulk hose, and took out the fittings and put them on the new hose. WHAT A PITA, if you have to do more than one. Doable, but PITA. If all the hoses are rotten, I would take them all off, lable them and get a pro to do them. We had a HISTRU hose machine that allowed me to do them all in a 1-2 hour job. The TM tells you what kind of hose to use. It tells you how long. But it can not replace the darned hose. Its all low pressure, so the MIL Standard hose is over kill. Maybe Ray has a good suggestion.

OPEN to read comment

 

[Ray70]

I've always preferred to just have new hoses made.
Easiest place is www.discounthydraulichose.com
go on, design your own hose and they are on your door step 2-3 days later.
You want AN-5 or 5/16 JIC female swivel ends.
1/4" or 5/16" hose, which ever uses cheaper fittings, and make your hoses a little longer than the original because the fittings are slightly longer overall, which reduces the length of rubber hose, thereby slightly decreasing the available "Bendable" portion of the hose.