MEP-003A Load test

[Roadracer86]

Looks great just watched the video, looks like a fine load bank you set up there. I really like the flange bolting idea with the silicon looks like it held up pretty well. Genny looks like a great unit why are you selling it, seems hard to come by them in that good of shape. And how much are you getting for that thing just out of curiosity.

I'm selling it to upgrade to a Kubota GL11000 which are mighty expensive but much quieter and smaller. I got $4k out of it but I added some stuff to it such as an oil pan heater, new marine batteries and I have a bunch of new filters that go along with the unit along with the trailer which is in great shape. This is a nice machine though; it has a new panel and gauge assembly, brand new battery cables and starter motor and solenoid that I replaced along with new electronics inside the control box which were replaced by Letter Kenny base out here in PA.

The flange and bolts with silicon didn't leak a drop and the heater elements screwed right in like they were made for each other; the Home Depot guy laughed when I told him what I was doing with the parts........I think his comments were, "I'll watch the evening news to see how you made out." I laughed, it was funny.

 

[Crawdaddy]

Could you share what parts you used for the flanged heater elements? My welding is also no good. I looked a while back at Home Depot and didn't see any of the flange-style water heater elements.

 

[Roadracer86]

Could you share what parts you used for the flanged heater elements? My welding is also no good. I looked a while back at Home Depot and didn't see any of the flange-style water heater elements.

You can get them at Lowes or Home Depot; here's the Lowes link for the 1 inch floor flange. Get a good 1 1/4 metal hole saw to cut the holes in the drum; I burnt up two hole saws getting through the drum but the drum was thicker than normal.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_22442-29760...e&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=floor+flange&facetInfo=

 

[leedawg]

I'm selling it to upgrade to a Kubota GL11000 which are mighty expensive but much quieter and smaller. I got $4k out of it but I added some stuff to it such as an oil pan heater, new marine batteries and I have a bunch of new filters that go along with the unit along with the trailer which is in great shape. This is a nice machine though; it has a new panel and gauge assembly, brand new battery cables and starter motor and solenoid that I replaced along with new electronics inside the control box which were replaced by Letter Kenny base out here in PA.

The flange and bolts with silicon didn't leak a drop and the heater elements screwed right in like they were made for each other; the Home Depot guy laughed when I told him what I was doing with the parts........I think his comments were, "I'll watch the evening news to see how you made out." I laughed, it was funny.

Sounds great to me those Kubotas sure are nice. I actually was at a village fair this weekend and walked right past an mq power whisperwatt 30 and could hardly believe it was running. Had to walk right up to it before I could hear it pretty amazing. Im sure the kubota is probably just as nice. 4k though is a good price that machine is in perfect shape that you are selling. I love how the home deopot guys will almost not let you buy stuff if they dont think your doing it right. I just tell them not to worry about it just give me what I asked for thank you! Great job was a fun thread to follow.

Lee

 

[Crawdaddy]

You can get them at Lowes or Home Depot; here's the Lowes link for the 1 inch floor flange. Get a good 1 1/4 metal hole saw to cut the holes in the drum; I burnt up two hole saws getting through the drum but the drum was thicker than normal.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_22442-29760...e&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=floor+flange&facetInfo=

That's pretty ingenious. I'm assuming you just bolted it to the drum? Did you use a backer plate inside the drum to keep the bolts from pulling through?

I have access to a torch; maybe that will make cutting the holes easier and avoid burning up hole saws. I can't see the gas being more than $20+ hole saws.

 

[leedawg]

That's pretty ingenious. I'm assuming you just bolted it to the drum? Did you use a backer plate inside the drum to keep the bolts from pulling through?

I have access to a torch; maybe that will make cutting the holes easier and avoid burning up hole saws. I can't see the gas being more than $20+ hole saws.

I used a torch with a circle cutting attachment to cut my holes out worked very well. And I dont think you would need a backing plate with a large bumper washer on the other side. But you could put another flange on the inside if you were really worried about it.

 

[Isaac-1]

I usually add in about a quart of ATF to the tank, I am not all that precise about it since these engines will "run" on straight ATF, actually I tend to use a mix of ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil

 

[Roadracer86]

Yes, counter sunk 1/4 inch screws, nuts and washers and globed them up with elephant snot, AKA silicon bathroom sealer. No backer plates just the screws and nuts; I let the silicon dry for 24 hours to make sure it was dry and used liquid pipe sealer on the heater elements to stop the threads from leaking. Worked like a charm.

 

[Roadracer86]

I usually add in about a quart of ATF to the tank, I am not all that precise about it since these engines will "run" on straight ATF, actually I tend to use a mix of ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil

Did you notice a difference? Less smoke emission? Do you add the ATF once or for a couple tanks? I've used the Marvel Mystery oil for other stuff but never as a fuel additive, thanks for the advice, I'll pass this on to the buyer. I did tell him about Steel Soldiers so I'm sure he'll be checking the site out in the near future. You guys are a wealth of knowledge.

 

[cuad4u]

I have used a plastic 55 gallon drum with the top cut out and full of water and various water heater elements as a load tester for a long time. To keep things very simple, just accept the fact that plain water WILL NOT conduct electricity - at least not at 240V. All I ever did was connect each water heater element to the end of a piece of 12/2 or 10/2 copper wire and drop elements directly into the water about half way down in the 55 gallon drum. I use as many lengths of 12/2 or 10/2 and water heater elements as needed to load test the generator. So far I have load tested up to 16,500 watts like this. Just make sure none of the elements touch the side of the plastic drum or they may melt the drum. Dissipating this much wattage will heat the water very quickly. If doing a long term load test, just put a water hose into the drum with the end on the bottom. Turn on cool water and let the hot water run over the top of the drum or drill a hole near the top of the drum and attach a piece of PVC pipe to take the hot water away from the drum. It works and the cost is only what you pay for the water heater elements and the copper wire. There is absolutely no welding or installing flanges on the drum.

 

[Roadracer86]

I have used a plastic 55 gallon drum with the top cut out and full of water and various water heater elements as a load tester for a long time. To keep things very simple, just accept the fact that plain water WILL NOT conduct electricity - at least not at 240V. All I ever did was connect each water heater element to the end of a piece of 12/2 or 10/2 copper wire and drop elements directly into the water about half way down in the 55 gallon drum. I use as many lengths of 12/2 or 10/2 and water heater elements as needed to load test the generator. So far I have load tested up to 16,500 watts like this. Just make sure none of the elements touch the side of the plastic drum or they may melt the drum. Dissipating this much wattage will heat the water very quickly. If doing a long term load test, just put a water hose into the drum with the end on the bottom. Turn on cool water and let the hot water run over the top of the drum or drill a hole near the top of the drum and attach a piece of PVC pipe to take the hot water away from the drum. It works and the cost is only what you pay for the water heater elements and the copper wire. There is absolutely no welding or installing flanges on the drum.

Lol, you're a braver soul than me; I would never try that. Electricity scares the crap out of me, mainly because I don't know that much about it.

 

[cuad4u]

I realize that my load tester is not for everybody. However at age 65 I have been working around electricity all my life and graduated in 1971 in EE. When people visit to buy a generator and when I use my 55 gallon load tester to demonstrate the capability of a 002A or a 003A, some people are amazed when I put my hand in the water while the load test is going on to see how hot the water is. If you are scared of electricity then do not load test like I do.

When people comment on my load tester it reminds me of what a civil engineer friend and fellow student told me when I asked him why he transferred out of EE into CE (Civil Engineering). He was from Argentina and spoke with broken English. He said, " After spending one semester in EE I realized two things about electricity:"

#1 You can't see it
#2 It will kill **** out of you

Point well taken...............

 

[Anthill]

I have a small (up to 30kw) load tester you could borrow if you like. I am just south of Philly so I am not too far from you.

 

[Roadracer86]

Thanks for the offer Anthill, my concoction actually worked pretty darn good and it took only a few hours to assemble and about $100 in materials. I sold the genset last week so I'm all set. I do appreciate your offer though, everyone on this site is very helpful and accommodating; I can't say enough about you guys.