Start the gen set up. While you do that, have someone use a multi meter to check the input side of the frequency transducer, for 120 VAC. At the beginning of you thread, you spoke of a reading on your hertz meter. If the hertz meter gives you a reading, it's getting 120 VAC. So let's confirm what's happening here. There is a world of difference between no AV output and not getting output on the load terminals.
I clipped my Fluke to the + terminal of the transducer and the negative lead to the ground main ground lug at the output lugs. While starting, after it ran, and while holding S1 in the start position--all three conditions I had no AC voltage reading on the Fluke meter.
Yes I believe the test you're describing is direct current to the exciter board, which should result in voltage generation. In -34 there is a test setup for the output box which test CVT1, Linear Reactor, A4 (exciter board), etc. It gives resistance values for everything. Most of the time I find it to be CVT1 transformer has shorted out. 1 time I found the Linear Rector Shorted which cause no-output. 1 time it was because of A1 relay assembly in the gauge cluster which had an open diode that caused the R1 resistor on the A4 exciter board to fry.
I ran the test that I quoted above (Procedure 8-2). I disconnected the appropriate two wires at TB3-5 and TB3-6 and hooked up a motorcycle battery in the correct orientation to TB3. With the motor running, I had 120v at L1, L2, and the convenience outlet. The voltmeter on the generator was just a tick over 240v and couldn't be adjusted, which I know is a function of the battery being wired in to TB3. The Hz meter was pegged to the far right (above 65 Hz), but I think that might be a condition of the battery being wired in place at TB3 as well. The Fluke read ~60Hz at the convenience outlet with minor (fewer than 1/10th of a Hertz) fluctuation.
This points to a bad voltage regulator, correct?
Now for a little surprise. When I took the cover off to find TB3, I discovered that mice had made that box a nice little nest.
I cleaned it out and inspected all of the wiring as best I could. I only found one wire it looks like they chewed at and they only took the insulation off of it and it's not touching anything. I'll wrap it back up with regular electrical tape.
So my thought was maybe there was a damaged wire I couldn't see, and that's why the battery at TB3-5 and TB3-6 wired in suddenly made things work. I tested continuity in the two wires (P67C16 and P60E16) back to the A2-12 and A2-18 and found them continuous. Beyond that, I don't know where else to look. The mouse nest could simply be a nasty little surprise and not the actual cause of my problem.
Thoughts? Bad VR or should I check something else out first?
Thank you for the patience. I've been busy with work and doing stuff around the house. I'm learning terminology, where to find some of these things I'm reading about (TB3 took me a while), and how to check things out. I'd like to get this thing functional again and then consider the possibility of using the GMG auto-start kit so I can hardwire it to the house as a backup generator.