MEP-003a Starts and once heats up dies.

[itsmerandy]

I've seen it a dozen times. When installed 180* off it will still run ( but may be hard starting ) for a short period of time because although the fuel is injecting at the wrong time, there is still fuel in the cylinder that will ignite on the next compression stroke.
The issue is that because the fuel timing is way off and virtually unregulated, the motor will quickly heat up.
I bet if you ran it again you will find that the valve covers get extremely hot within less than 5 minutes.
Believe me, if your description of how you installed the pump is accurate, you are indeed in the wrong position. You need to rotate past the intake valve closing and almost all the way through the compression stroke.
Fuel begins to get pressurized at the PC point which is just a little before #1 TDC of compression.
Sounds like you installed the pump around the beginning of the intake stroke.

Okay that makes since, I didn't know it would still run that way and yes it does heat up very quickly and that's probably why the overheat sensor flaked out on me. Hopefully I haven't damaged anything. I will correct my mistake and let you know what happens. Thank you Ray70 and Chainbreaker

 

[itsmerandy]

OMG It runs beautifully now! Thank you guys so much! After switching IP 180 degrees more it started easier then it ever has and ran perfect for the 10 minutes I ran it, It ran so much cooler I could hold my hand on the valve cover even after running the whole time and the shutters started to open a little at the end before I shut it off. you guys saved me alot of time. Greatly appreciated! Now I need to start testing the generator side of it. I will look through the TM and see what I need to do on that, I didn't see any of the electrical guages move while it was running except Battery/Generator and it stayed in the yellow area. I'm guessing I have to connect a load to it running before i will see the Voltage, Frequency and amps Move?

 

[nextalcupfan]

OMG It runs beautifully now! Thank you guys so much! After switching IP 180 degrees more it started easier then it ever has and ran perfect for the 10 minutes I ran it, It ran so much cooler I could hold my hand on the valve cover even after running the whole time and the shutters started to open a little at the end before I shut it off. you guys saved me alot of time. Greatly appreciated! Now I need to start testing the generator side of it. I will look through the TM and see what I need to do on that, I didn't see any of the electrical guages move while it was running except Battery/Generator and it stayed in the yellow area. I'm guessing I have to connect a load to it running before i will see the Voltage, Frequency and amps Move?

My suggestion is start another thread for the electrical side.
But you should see Voltage and Frequency as soon as the set starts and you let go of the S1.

 

[itsmerandy]

My suggestion is start another thread for the electrical side.
But you should see Voltage and Frequency as soon as the set starts and you let go of th

Actually after reading the TM a little I had the transfer switch on 3 phase and when I set it for single phase 240 volt the meters worked okay, so I think I'm good but after shutting it down again and restarting it I got nothing on the meters. So not sure what is going on, I will play with it some more and if I cant figure it out then I will start another thread. Thanks

 

[rickf]

You really need to read the manual before running the set so you don't screw it up. I hate to be that RTFM guy but it pertains here. There are a lot of things you can do that will cause damage if done wrong.

 

[Guyfang]

Do not hate it. Its good.

Read the -12 and study the operating portion. The S6 and S8 have to be in the right positions to read SOME meters. The volts and hertz, should read right now, when it runs. Its possible the hertz will not read, due to a bad A3, (Freq Transducer) but if you get no volts, then you need to check at the 120 volt output recpt. Make sure the CB3, (AC outlet Circuit Breaker is pushed in.)

 

[Chainbreaker]

Also, if you don't know this already... DO NOT rotate the AC Reconnection Switch while unit is running! It's got a metal cover over it with twist lock pin for a reason.

 

[itsmerandy]

I have been reading the TM manuals and learned alot, Seems like power is working okay as I hooked up a little portable heater to the 120 volt plug and it ran it without problems. I have an electric 5 KW heater in my shop I am going to try and hook up later for 240 volt load test But i ran into another issue, I received the replacement thermo cut out switch today and when I tried to remove the old one the screw busted off in the cylinder head so know I have to remove the shutter box and the exhaust pipes are holding it up from coming off. Do the exhaust nipples unscrew or do I completely have to remove exhaust manifolds?

 

[Chainbreaker]

I thought you started up the generator yesterday & said it was "running beautifully now"? If the thermal switch were defective, it should not have allowed it to run. My thoughts were that the thermal switch was tripping because of the incorrect installation of the Injection Pump causing it to overheat & run hot.

Regardless, that is water under the bridge now! FWIW, anytime I anticipate working on removing any old bolt or screw I use a penetrating oil like Kroil or other penetrant designed to free frozen nuts & bolts and let it sit for an hour or even over night in some cases.

By the "exhaust nipples" do you mean the upturn extensions? If so, I've never removed any but you can bet they won't be that easy to loosen. I would use a penetrating oil (Kroil, Break-Free, Knock-er-Loose, etc.) and let them soak overnight & add some more the next day before doing any wrenching to remove them.

 

[itsmerandy]

I thought you started up the generator yesterday & said it was "running beautifully now"? If the thermal switch were defective, it should not have allowed it to run. My thoughts were that the thermal switch was tripping because of the incorrect installation of the Injection Pump causing it to overheat & run hot.

Regardless, that is water under the bridge now! FWIW, anytime I anticipate working on removing any old bolt or screw I use a penetrating oil like Kroil or other penetrant designed to free frozen nuts & bolts and let it sit for an hour or even over night in some cases.

By the "exhaust nipples" do you mean the upturn extensions? If so, I've never removed any but you can bet they won't be that easy to loosen. I would use a penetrating oil (Kroil, Break-Free, Knock-er-Loose, etc.) and let them soak overnight & add some more the next day before doing any wrenching to remove them.

Sorry, Actually in the beginning of this thread I explained that it wouldn't stay running after I let off start switch, It turned out to be the thermal shut down so I bypassed it and ordered a new one. I probably shouldn't have bypassed thermal switch especially knowing now that I had the IP 180 degrees out and the engine was getting extremely hot. Anyways I got the shutter box off and had to drill and tap threads but it is now done and everything is great. (Knock on wood). Thanks for all your help.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Good job! I think you're going to like the simplicity of the MEP-003a you purchased it's a tough dependable machine if you take care of it & keep it out of harm's way... namely rodents & exposed weathering. My advice is to buy good fuel and be sure to treat it & your diesel fuel should hopefully be good for a couple of years plus depending on some fuel turnover. I use Optilube XPD & BioBore JF (kills the critters).

Run it with a substantial load for minimum of 15 min to 1hr monthly or no less than every 90 days. Consider stocking up on maintenance items like filters (fuel pump, fuel filters for cannisters, oil filters, air filter). Though you may want to consider the convenience of buying the adaptors for spin-on fuel filters and oil filter now before stocking up on the OEM filters.

You may also want to start making a list of spares to buy such as: a spare fuel pump, fuses, frequency transducer, glow plugs, the list goes on... It all depends on how you feel about being prepared for power outages & the frequency they occur in your area. Be forewarned that it can become an obsession... some people go so far as to buy spare engines, control boxes end even complete "parts machines" since these machines haven't been in production for 20 years and parts are getting scarce. It all depends on your dependency on electricity & your tolerance of outage durations & paranoia about it.

When power goes out here, I'm pretty screwed due to living in the country. I have two electrical service entrances 700' apart & dependent on keeping 2 wells running, 2 pumped sewage systems going, plus 4 horses alive & most importantly keeping the wife happy!

 

[glcaines]

One other thing. Never let the engine idle! Keep it reading 60 Hz when you shut it down. If you let the engine idle you will cause damage.

 

[Guyfang]

The throttle control should be set at 60 hertz, and not moved again. Unless its for minor adjustment.

 

[Ray70]

Glad to hear you're moving forward and it's now running good. keep us informed on the gages, they can be a pain but easily fixed.
I 2nd ChainBreaker's OptiLube XPD suggestion, this low sulfur diesel is absolute garbage. Keep your fuel treated and exercise the machine regularly or you will get to practice rebuilding your IP once again!

 

[itsmerandy]

Thank you guys, I am really glad I found this forum with such a great group of knowledgeable helpful members! Would have probably melted a few cylinders down on this Genset if you hadn't of caught my IP installation screw up. I will absolutely keep the engine locked at 60 Hertz, I was reading on here that idling is hard on the voltage regulator and can burn out a transistor, I sure don't want to take any chances like that. I will absolutely order some Optilube XPD and Biobore JF, will the Optilube help clean the IP and Injectors or should I use another form of treatment for those? Also I decided to go ahead and order the spin-on fuel filters and adapters to make things a little simpler. Luckily I live near Springfield, Mo. and our winters aren't very harsh, although we did have a big ice storm in 2007 and power was out over 2 weeks and we are due for another similar event, happy to be prepared this time around hopefully.