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MEP-004A, No output

KLChurch

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Montgomery/TX
IMG_20190924_104641.jpg
This is what I call the throttle knob.
I took it apart and put it back together.
It seems to be working but will not lock into position.
Also to get to 60 hz I have to pull it out considerably and will not be able to close the door without being pushed forward
Kris
 

flydude92

Member
117
9
18
Location
Waterville, Ohio
This is what I call the throttle knob.
I took it apart and put it back together.
It seems to be working but will not lock into position.
Also to get to 60 hz I have to pull it out considerably and will not be able to close the door without being pushed forward
Kris
Kris,

My original throttle knob didn't lock either so I purchased one that did.
Like yours, I had to pull mine out far enough to get 60hz and I wasn't able to
close the door without pushing it back in so I adjusted the cable.

I still have enough adjustment room between about 58hz-64hz and can still close the door. (I don't need 50hz)

Brian
 

KLChurch

New member
475
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0
Location
Montgomery/TX
Kris,

My original throttle knob didn't lock either so I purchased one that did.
Like yours, I had to pull mine out far enough to get 60hz and I wasn't able to
close the door without pushing it back in so I adjusted the cable.

I still have enough adjustment room between about 58hz-64hz and can still close the door. (I don't need 50hz)

Brian
Thanks Brian
Where would I get a new knob?
Kris
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
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16,690
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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
View attachment 777452View attachment 777451
If you look closely you will see a drip from the IP. (Bottom high pressure outlet)
It only drips but can cause a fire
Kris
NSN: 5310-00-891-8931
Part Number: 16225
Supplier: STANADYNE CORPORATION


AARXINSIDE DIAMETER0 19/50 INCHES MINIMUM AND 77/200 INCHES MAXIMUM
ABHEOUTSIDE DIAMETER0 99/200 INCHES MINIMUM AND 101/200 INCHES MAXIMUM
ADUMOVERALL THICKNESS0 11/200 INCHES MINIMUM AND 13/200 INCHES MAXIMUM
MATTMATERIALSTEEL COMP 1010

This is a special washer. Ridges on only one side. Ridges face the injector line. There is no rubber to it. Just metal. If you get them, replace them ALL. Cheap insurance. Cost the army .45 cents the washer.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,690
23,888
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
View attachment 777458
This is what I call the throttle knob.
I took it apart and put it back together.
It seems to be working but will not lock into position.
Also to get to 60 hz I have to pull it out considerably and will not be able to close the door without being pushed forward
Kris
Speed Control
NSN: 3040-01-006-5303
1. Part Number: 72-2279-1
2. Part Number: D45336-41-12N 3. Part Number: D045336-41-12
4. Part Number: 72-2279
5. Part Number: D045336-000-041.0
6. Part Number: 345-029
Supplier: ARENS CONTROLS COMPANY, L.L.C
Supplier: DBA ARENS CONTROLS
Cost the Army 38 bucks
 

Guyfang

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Staff member
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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Now, will it start? Or not?

Have you tested the S2?

To prove Peters theory, go to the L1, (If you have forgotten where this is, drink a beer and go to bed!!) Disconnect the two wires. On one wire, (P80N) you should get 24VDC when someone turns S2 to the start position. On the other wire, (P55X) you should measure Ohms from ground to the wire, and get continuity. If you have VDC on P80N, then its something other then S2.

Balls in your court.
 

KLChurch

New member
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Location
Montgomery/TX
Guy
How would you test the start run stop switch?
Looks like you already answered
But you are correct I don't know what L1 is
Sorry
Kris
 
Last edited:

flydude92

Member
117
9
18
Location
Waterville, Ohio
Where would I get a new knob?
Kris
I purchased mine from Delk's Army-Navy Surplus Store 336-629-0991. (7 years ago)

It wasn't cheap but it works well. Just make sure you get one that locks and won't slip.

There may be cheaper options available now.


Brian (added the picture)


Knob.jpg
 
Last edited:

KLChurch

New member
475
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0
Location
Montgomery/TX
Guy
Got 24 volts on P80N in start position.
But the connector snapped off while trying to disconnect it.
So will have to install a new connector. It seemed that not many wires were left connected when I try to disconnect it.
Also the terminal started leaking diesel so I had tighten the nut. This is disturbing.
When checking the ohm on the other wire, do I check it in the stop position?
Kris
 

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Basehor, KS
Thanks Guy,

I think that S2 is making contact intermittently, hence sometimes it works and at other times it doesn't. In German this is called "Wackelkontakt" and is caused by internal contact corrosion (Water/Rain), bent contacts from pushing switch to hard into start position or a worn out spring for the momentary action part of S2 or it is just simply worn out after decades - probably the most often used Switch on any Genset:



Wackelkontakt {m}
slack joint electr.
loose contact electr.
loose connection electr.
defective contact electr.
intermittent contact electr.

Anyway, my first suspicion was L1 as I stated earlier, but it could be both, S2 and L1 (Ground Connection or stuck/sticky solenoid)

Maybe a double whammy.......


Now, will it start? Or not?

Have you tested the S2?

To prove Peters theory, go to the L1, (If you have forgotten where this is, drink a beer and go to bed!!) Disconnect the two wires. On one wire, (P80N) you should get 24VDC when someone turns S2 to the start position. On the other wire, (P55X) you should measure Ohms from ground to the wire, and get continuity. If you have VDC on P80N, then its something other then S2.

Balls in your court.
 
Last edited:
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