MEP-005 Fuel Injection Pump

[Rickety Bones]

. Ended up punching the glass ball out of it and cleaning it real well. Runs like a champ now!

Can you explain this better, punching the glass ball?

does this mean you removed, cleaned and replaced it or did you completely remove it ?

Thanks Rick

 

[leedawg]

Well Some on here just removed the ball. I dont know why but I felt bad destroying the check valve so I just went down to our local auto parts store and bought a brass T and a brass pipe nipple and threaded the fittings from the other T onto it and replaced that entire tee with the new one I made up. But you could just try and destroy the ball in there so that there is no more ball and that would sort of do the same thing just a smaller orifice. IT seems to be running great with the new fitting I made for it though. After It runs for a bit I might try the check valve back in to see if it still is getting clogged up or if somehow all that stuff has purged out through the injectors. Sure seems like debris that is clogging that check valve would be really bad for the injectors as well though but what do I know im no diesel mechanic.

 

[Rickety Bones]

ok great, i just cleaned it and made sure its working good and free, tried to start and still nothing. Im not getting any voltage to the top of the injector cover.

have any ideas if their is a fuse somewhere?

Rick

 

[leedawg]

You will not get voltage to the top cover unless you are activly cranking it and then the speed switch kicks in. If you flip the battle short switch on you will get 24 volts to the top cover but cannot turn the motor over with battle short on . But you can test to see if the solenoid is working by putting it in battle short mode and measuring with multii meter.

Did you open up the top cover of the injection pump where the T screws into? YOu need to remove those three bolts holding the cover down and make sure the mechanisms inside there are nice and free.

Lee

 

[Isaac-1]

One note here, any time you are opening up a cover or removing a line from an injection pump you want as close to clean room conditions as possible, one little fleck of paint in the wrong place can clog an injection pump.

Ike

 

[Rickety Bones]

You will not get voltage to the top cover unless you are activly cranking it and then the speed switch kicks in. If you flip the battle short switch on you will get 24 volts to the top cover but cannot turn the motor over with battle short on . But you can test to see if the solenoid is working by putting it in battle short mode and measuring with multii meter.

Did you open up the top cover of the injection pump where the T screws into? YOu need to remove those three bolts holding the cover down and make sure the mechanisms inside there are nice and free.

Lee

Ok great that was the next question and you answered it for me, " when should voltage be present"?

yes I removed the top cover, and cleaned all the parts and got them moving correctly, I put some over the counter diesel injector cleaner straight in and let it sit for a few hours, that seemed to help quite a bit. still kinds rusty looking but alot better. I also cleaned the glass ball in the fitting on the top of the injector cover.

recharging batteries right now, will give it a try later.

Thanks again for all of your help, I think with a little TLC I can bring this unit back to life.

once I get it running good, and if I was to put a axle and tongue on this so it could be easily towed by a pick up truck, what would be a fair selling price ?

Thanks again for all of your help

 

[Rickety Bones]

One note here, any time you are opening up a cover or removing a line from an injection pump you want as close to clean room conditions as possible, one little fleck of paint in the wrong place can clog an injection pump.

Ike

Thanks for the info,

Rick

 

[Rickety Bones]

one more question,

i read in another post that the knurled knob right next to the fuel inlet is a fine adjustment, is this true and how do you adjust correctly?

 

[Isaac-1]

The knurled knob adjusts the amount of droop when load is applied, inward makes it less sensitive/more droop, outward is more sensitive/less droop, but setting too sensitive causes instability.

 

[Rickety Bones]

ok thanks, I will find a happy medium

Thanks again for all your help,
you have been approved for a extended weekend pass
now go enjoy yourself solider.

DISMISSED !!!!

LOL

 

[leedawg]

So I circled the lever that was frozen inside my pump. The one circled in red was all the way in the off position or closest to the control panel it needs to move forward and backward free. It is tied to the one I circled in yellow they move opposite each other. Make sure it is moving freely back and forth. You can then see the roller ball of the external level and how when it is forward it pushes that lever circled in red backward thus cutting the fuel off. Hope that helps some.

 

[leedawg]

Forgot to attach the image sorry.

 

[Rickety Bones]

yep, I verified both were moving freely, thanks for the pictures, sure makes it easy

 

[Rickety Bones]

All right all you privates bucking for lieutenants. listen up

Ok, my injector pump is not pumping fuel to the injectors.

I have had the top off the IP 3 different times, I have rigged 5 mirrors, 2 flashlights and a butt scope to look inside, from what I can see all the parts are moving freely and with ease.

The throttle lever moves back and fourth with ease.

I have had all of the banjo fittings off, while running the engine on WD-40 and not a drop of fuel comes out. moved the throttle cable back and forth and the manual fuel cut off back and forth, still no fuel. I also checked to ensure the solenoid was moving back and fourth while cranking and it works good.

does anyone know any other tricks I can try before taking this to the local diesel shop for service, I just hate to pay 100/hr shop time when I know I can prob fix myself.

and I need a opinion on rebuild or just buy new ?

Thanks all,

AT EASE SOLIDER

 

[leedawg]

All right all you privates bucking for lieutenants. listen up

Ok, my injector pump is not pumping fuel to the injectors.

I have had the top off the IP 3 different times, I have rigged 5 mirrors, 2 flashlights and a butt scope to look inside, from what I can see all the parts are moving freely and with ease.

The throttle lever moves back and fourth with ease.

I have had all of the banjo fittings off, while running the engine on WD-40 and not a drop of fuel comes out. moved the throttle cable back and forth and the manual fuel cut off back and forth, still no fuel. I also checked to ensure the solenoid was moving back and fourth while cranking and it works good.

does anyone know any other tricks I can try before taking this to the local diesel shop for service, I just hate to pay 100/hr shop time when I know I can prob fix myself.

and I need a opinion on rebuild or just buy new ?

Thanks all,

AT EASE SOLIDER

Hum does not sound good. I dint think you can buy these pumps new even if you could would be an insane price. I was quoted 700 and up to rebuild mine. Delks is not selling them any more
Till he finds a new guy to rebuild them for him. Your sure there is fuel up to the pump? I pulled mine poetry easy to do. Take off the inspection concert first on the timing great case behind the radiator fan takes the spring tension off of the shaft good luck...

 

[Rickety Bones]

o yea, lots of fuel to the pump, very good flow. I even pulled the fuel inlet strainer to check that fiter and it was clean as a whistle

so that's my next step is pulling the pump and taking it apart.

my main concern is, IF i get he pump working, is getting in back in in the same location, or timing location,

I really do know know how they are " Timed " read one post where a gut said he set the motor to 20 degrease, do these engines have timing marks on the front pulley like a gas motor?

how is the injector pump timing set anyways?

thanks for the help

Rick

 

[leedawg]

OH well if you are competent enough to take the pump apart and reassemble it, timing it will seem idiot proof for you

ITs pretty easy to time it if you look on the left side of the motor up at the fly wheel end where the bell housing is bolted to the generator you will notice a hole with a line in the casting in the middle of it. Get a socket on the front crank pully and take the two screws out of the inspection window on the injection pump and pull it off. Rotate the main crank with a breaker bar till you see the line on the moving part inside the injection pump coming up till it lines up with the line that is on the left side of the non moving part. Once you do that go look in the window on the bell housing and you will notice numbers IIRC they are in graduations of 2 so like 18 degrees 20 degrees and 22 degrees before top dead center. Well if its all set up right when the lines on the injection pump line up the main flywheel should be at 20 degrees before top dead center. If not you need to move the main crank to 20 degrees before top dead center and you have to move it in the direction the motor moves so the gear lash in the timing gears does not get you out of time. Then you unbolt the two bolts holding the injection pump to the timing gear housing and rotate it till the lines on the injection pump line up and presto you have timed it properly. Of course tighten it down so it can move then I pull it through another rotation and line the marks up again in the pump and verify the flywheel is in the right place (20 degrees before top dead center).

That being said Im not sure you can take the injection pump apart much more before it gets really complicated but if you do take pictures for us id like to see it and wish you luck on it.

OH be careful putting the pump back on getting those cup seals on the shaft that turn the pump from the timing gears was the hardest part. They kept wanting to fold over an I was worried I was going to damage them. I oiled em up really well with 3 and 1 oil and put it on the brass tube the shaft sits in and sore to worked it back and forth to get it back on hope it does not leak and dump diesel into the crank case like I have read others have had the problem with.

Lee

 

[Rickety Bones]

Ok, that seem pretty easy, been working on gas motor my hole life, when my daughter was 2 years old, I tough her to recite 18436572, the firing order of a SBC.

It was fun at the parts store hehe

ok so the timing this seems easy, the IP is prob gonna be a pain in the but, but im gonna try it, whats the worst I can do

I will take pictures, be back in a couple of days

Rick

 

[leedawg]

Ok, that seem pretty easy, been working on gas motor my hole life, when my daughter was 2 years old, I tough her to recite 18436572, the firing order of a SBC.

It was fun at the parts store hehe

ok so the timing this seems easy, the IP is prob gonna be a pain in the but, but im gonna try it, whats the worst I can do

I will take pictures, be back in a couple of days

Rick

Worst that could happen I suppose you could damage some parts inside it and just end up costing more when you take it to a diesel shop for the rebuild. However you could end up fixing it too so who knows. Like I said its beyond my shade tree mechanic skills and honestly little intimidating for me. But as I said I would love to see pictures and a walk through what you do im fascinated by this kind of stuff.
Good luck....

 

[319]

Can you explain this better, punching the glass ball?

does this mean you removed, cleaned and replaced it or did you completely remove it ?

Thanks Rick

I first tried cleaning the check valve will brake cleaner three times and still had issues so I used a small roll pin punch to break the glass ball then an oil seal pick to dig the pieces of glass and the the tiny spring out. Then used the brake cleaner and thoroughly cleaned all of the gunk out of the valve.