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Mep-005a possible rear main seal leaking,,,,,bad!

Benxbec

Member
35
28
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Location
Belle Chasse, LA
I was doing some of my final running and testing of this unit this morning when I see a pretty good stream of oil coming from it. I have been watching after every run of it for any leaking and have seen none up until this morning and it is gushing out from somewhere between the back of the motor and where the generator head meets.

I know usually when a main seal goes out it leaks first. Is there anything else back there that could be causing this? I will try and pickup an inspection mirror either today or tomorrow.

I am sick! 👎
 

Guyfang

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This is a very common problem with the older MEP-004A and MEP-005A engines. They have been around a long time and its going to happen. High hour machines are the main machines that it strikes. Regardless of what your hour meter says. Its an easy fix. Or I think so, if you have the tools and a way to pull the engine out.

If it were the crankcase vent, the dip stick hole would have lots of pressure coming out and oil too.
 

Benxbec

Member
35
28
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Location
Belle Chasse, LA
I checked the crankcase vent and it all looks good and there is no oil coming out the dipstick tube so looks like I'm fixing to have fun, lol.

Being a farmer I have lots of tools and a backhoe and forklift.

Are there any special tools required to do the job?

Now to the big one, and keep in mind that I have the acoustic enclosure, how does the engine come out?

Thanks, Ben.
 

Guyfang

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Ben,

OK. I would tell you to RTFB, but its really simple. In the ASK:

1. You remove the two towers. on the front and rear top.
2. Remove the top.
3. Remove the sides. All these parts have little turn locks to undo them.
4. You do not have to, but I ALWAYS take the batteries out. But if you leave em in, do unhook both the + & - cables.
5. Drain the coolant.
6. Take off the radiator hoses.
7. there are 4, (If i remember right) bolts/nuts on each side of the frame holding the radiator upright. Take them out. there should be two stabilizing brackets to keep the top of the radiator stable. Remove them. Hook up a chain the the radiator and frame, and lift it up and out.
8. Strip off all the electrical cables and wires to the engine. Pull them to the rear.
9. Unhook the throttle cable to the IP.
10. Unhook the fuel lines/hoses. Unhook anything else that is attached to the engine. Like the front engine hold down bolts, (X2 bolts).
11. If you are lucky, there is a kinda "Tool Box" in the set. There should be/was, maybe is, two heavy steel "L" brackets, with big honking screws going through them. They are to be attached to the man gen to support it. If they are not there, use wooden blocks or some other type of thing to keep the main gen steady, and not movable.
12. There is a "Belt" that goes around the engine bell housing/main gen . Remove it, then get out, (I think) a 15/16 breaker bar and socket. Loosen the bolts that hold the main gen to the engine.
13. There are two brackets on top of the engine. hook up a short piece of chain between them so you can lift the engine one half hair. Remove the bolts holding the main gen to the engine.
14. Lift a tad on the engine and ease it forward, then out of the compartment.
15. Before you move it, do look ONE MORE TIME, to see nothing else is attached.
16. Take the flywheel off the engine. Then you can see how to get at the rear seal.
17. Take the Front pulley off, and it is reverse threads!!!! You might want to do this step early on, when the engine and main gen are still coupled.
18. Do replace both the front and rear main seals. Because if you don!t, next week the front will start leaking!
19. I never mark anything, because I think its a no brainer ,as to what hooks up where. But do as you think best.
20 Now is a good time to clean up inside the set.
21. Oh, the valve cover gasket comes in the same rebuild kit. There is a simple kit, and then a compleat engine overhaul kit. For what you are doing the short kit is good. DO NOT, DO NOT, over tighten the valve cover. It bends easy. Then leaks badly. In fact, take it off and look at it. It may have already have been over tightened.

Did I mess a step? You bet. Only a fool will try to do this without reading the -34 TM. Its not hard, but getting smart first, makes it easier. I had two Thugs that worked in my shop who had done this so often, it took them 90 min or two hours, I forget. But they had an over head lift and air tools. And they loved showing off.
 

Ray70

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West greenwich/RI

Benxbec

Member
35
28
18
Location
Belle Chasse, LA
So far I have only been able to find the full gasket kit at around $485 on ebay.

Does anyone know of a source for the partial kit that I need?

Also, should I think about changing the water pump while I'm at it?
 

rickf

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Pemberton, N.J.
Diesel "Mechanics" are getting to be a rare, and old, breed. The new crop are diesel "technicians", and they replace the parts that the scanner says are bad. Nobody seems to remember that with computers it is garbage in, garbage out. If that computer is not seeing correct signals due to something as simple as a bad ground then it can tell to replace all kinds of parts that are not actually bad. This goes for ANY computer controlled vehicles from Jeeps to Jets.
 

Benxbec

Member
35
28
18
Location
Belle Chasse, LA
Nobody touched on the water pump, should I rebuild it while the motor is out or is it easy enough to change later on if it ever goes out.

Do they go out often or rarely ever?
 

Guyfang

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I have never seen a water pump on the 004A and 005A go bad. Never. That doesn't mean that it will never go bad. Keep in mind, some of the great engines are much older that a good percentage of the members in this form.

Look at the metal springs in the radiator hoses to see if they are there and not rotted away.
 
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