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MEP-005A Tech Manual

gdg111

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Shouldn't be any harm since the primary & secondary will catch any trash coming from the strainer. The only risk is the possibility of fuel starving during a load test or extended run in service. The other risk or result is early clogging of your filters but you should be good for many hours unless your fuel tank is full of crud, then you'll need to do a thorough tank cleaning. Just drain the (3) filter housing petcocks into a glass jar whenever you run the unit so you can discover and drain any water coming from the tank.
Thank-you sir. That makes me feel much better. I run the unit once a month to keep the battery charged up via the alternator. Do I drain the filter housing after I run the unit or after I run it. I have a few other questions. If I am looking for spare parts such as alternator, batteries and starter where should I look for purchase. The generator produces very good power however I have never been able to get the Oil Pressure Gauge to work. I have replaced the gauge and cannot get a reading from it. Do you have any suggestions? There is also at the back of the unit there is a box that appears to have this black glue like substance coming from it. Do you know what this may be and will it give me any issues? - douglas
 

Guyfang

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gdg111,

All three filter housings use the same O-ring. The copper washers under the flow through bolts can leak, but if they are dry, don't worry about it. The same for the copper washer under the domed nut, (acorn nut). If they work, don't screw with them. I would maybe get some to keep on hand, and they are cheap, but if you replaced the two filters and no leaks, it golden.

The different number on the filters is no big deal. The military went with several different sources of filters. No matter what NSN you use, you get the same filters. Or filters that will work.

Do take a flashlight and shine it down into the fuel tank. If you see anything like quicksilver in the tank, its water. That's what the petcocks are for on your fuel filtering system are for. Turn on the S1 to the run position, the electric fuel pumps come on, pressurize the fuel system, and then you can let a bit of fuel out into a glass. Check your output, if its got water or dirt, think about pulling the tank and cleaning it.

You do not need a mechanic to help you. Read the books, not once, but twice. Then try to do it yourself. After watching your mechanic, you should be able to do a service yourself, with a little reading. This is not rocket science.

If and when you do the water strainer, after cleaning/replacing or what ever, put a pile of rags down under the filter housing. Replace the housing, tighten up the domed nut, finger tight. Turn on the S1 to run, and wait until the fuel starts to drip out of the housing. THEN tighten up the domed nut. Air is bled out of the system. From the strainer to the injectors, its self bleeding anyway.

A good trick to remember when replacing fuel filter housings is to spin the housing, just before you tighten them down. It centers the housing, and tends to push up the gaskets/O-rings into the filter head better. Less chance of a leak. I once, long, long, long ago, got all three gaskets in wrong. If you think it bleeds oil like a pig, get all the filter gaskets wrong! Then you will see something on the scale of Niagara Falls.

This is a killer gen set if you keep the fuel, oil and air filters changed when it needs them. There are also filters in the electric fuel pumps. On the bottom of the pumps, should be a nut, if I remember right, 5/8th wrench (?) and when you take off the bottom cap, there will come a flood of fuel, then the plastic filters, and there will also be a magnet in there. Take it all out, clean it and then replace it just like it came out. If the fuel pump strainers are crudded up, then take a REAL good look at the fuel tank. That is the very FIRST line of fuel straining and filtering.
 
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Guyfang

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Thank-you sir. That makes me feel much better. I run the unit once a month to keep the battery charged up via the alternator. Do I drain the filter housing after I run the unit or after I run it. (The answer to that question is in the -12 manual, under the PMCS section.) I have a few other questions. If I am looking for spare parts such as alternator, batteries and starter where should I look for purchase. (Internet, big auction site, here in SS, sky's the limit!!) The generator produces very good power however I have never been able to get the Oil Pressure Gauge to work. (In the TM, there is a procedure to test the sending unit and gage. We can help you with that.) I have replaced the gauge and cannot get a reading from it. Do you have any suggestions? There is also at the back of the unit there is a box that appears to have this black glue like substance coming from it. Do you know what this may be and will it give me any issues? ( do you mean behind the control panel? If so, we can help you troubleshoot it. It's probably the Thermal Watt Converter. Can you post a picture?) - douglas
my mail box is empty now.
 

Zed254

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Guy, I will check those manuals out. Thank you. You are a wealth of knowledge. I will try and figure out how to post a photo. Does not appear as an easy task. Maybe it is me. I am generally very computer savvy. - douglas
When you post a reply you need to 'Go Advanced'. This opens up several options below the input screen. "Manage Attachments" allows you to hunt up and post an image. Hmmmm....which is what Guy said.
 
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gdg111

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Thank-you sir. That makes me feel much better. I run the unit once a month to keep the battery charged up via the alternator. Do I drain the filter housing after I run the unit or after I run it. (The answer to that question is in the -12 manual, under the PMCS section.) I have a few other questions. If I am looking for spare parts such as alternator, batteries and starter where should I look for purchase. (Internet, big auction site, here in SS, sky's the limit!!) The generator produces very good power however I have never been able to get the Oil Pressure Gauge to work. (In the TM, there is a procedure to test the sending unit and gage. We can help you with that.) I have replaced the gauge and cannot get a reading from it. Do you have any suggestions? There is also at the back of the unit there is a box that appears to have this black glue like substance coming from it. Do you know what this may be and will it give me any issues? ( do you mean behind the control panel? If so, we can help you troubleshoot it. It's probably the Thermal Watt Converter. Can you post a picture?) - douglas

Guy, attached is a photo of where the goo is
GLUE_LEAKI.jpgleaking.
 

gdg111

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Here are photos of my set-up. I want to thank all of the folks here. I would like to know about the goo and how to fix or what to replace. I cannot get the oil pressure gauge to work or the alternator gauge.

20171020_175851.jpg20171020_180221.jpg20171020_175918.jpg20171020_180054.jpg20171020_181354.jpg
 

1800 Diesel

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Here are photos of my set-up. I want to thank all of the folks here. I would like to know about the goo and how to fix or what to replace. I cannot get the oil pressure gauge to work or the alternator gauge.
As Guyfang said that sticky oil is leaking from the thermal watt converter which you can find by opening the meter/gauge board. This is a common issue that I've seen on several MEP-004A & 005A units. From what I've observed the TWC will leak for a long time (so far I have one that's leaked at least 2 years and the generator functions fine). When the TWC eventually fails, the generator should still produce electricity properly but you'll probably see some meters not reading correctly. Possibly your TWC has indeed failed but I'm not certain that this would affect the DC ammeter or oil gauge.

For now all I can say about the oil gauge and the DC ammeter is to check the connections at both ends. Loosen, clean & re-tighten. Have you put a voltmeter across the batteries while running to verify that the alternator is charging?

I haven't run across two gauges not working on these units so I'd have to do some TM reading to get up to speed--I expect you need to do the same. A study of the wiring schematic could also help determine if the TWC breakdown has any effect on your two gauges not functioning.
 
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Guyfang

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The TWC has no influence on the gages. None. The way to tell if your TWC is bad, is to put a load on the gen set, then see if you can read anything on your M7, Kilowatt meter. No reading, check for voltage from the TWC to the meter. The -34 manual has the test procedure. Like 1800 says, it can leak a while before failing, or sometimes it fails and leaks at the same time. Not a show stopper. You can still make power, just not know how many KW you are pulling.

The test procedures are in the manuals for the oil press sending unit. Again, not a show stopper. If you had no oil pressure, the set would shut off the engine, an idiot light would come on and you could stand there with your hands on your hips, thinking Shi*, what now. Look at the -12 manual, PDF page reader 190. There is the start of a test for the meter. I would start with the Oil Press Transmitter. On PDF page Reader, 159 is the test procedure for the transmitter, and it is way easier then the meter testing.

Checking the M4, DC Ammeter, is way easy. The meter is connected to the Ammeter Shunt. The Ammeter Shunt is connected to the G2, Battery Charging Alternator. To test the meter, measure (while the set is running) the two terminals on the back of M4. Got 24 Volts DC? If so, the meter is bad. If not? Go to the G2, unscrew the fuse cap on the back side, and see if it's there at all! It is often stolen. If it's there, check, WITH A MULTIMETER, to see if it's good. The glass fuse CAN and sometimes WILL melt at the base of the two caps, inside the fuse. Fuse LOOKS good through the glass, but isn't worth a plugged nickel. If the fuse is good, in all probability, your G2 is bad, or, the belts not there! With the set running, you should have more or less 24-28 volts at the slave receptacle, if G2 is operating properly.
 

gdg111

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The TWC has no influence on the gages. None. The way to tell if your TWC is bad, is to put a load on the gen set, then see if you can read anything on your M7, Kilowatt meter. No reading, check for voltage from the TWC to the meter. The -34 manual has the test procedure. Like 1800 says, it can leak a while before failing, or sometimes it fails and leaks at the same time. Not a show stopper. You can still make power, just not know how many KW you are pulling.
The test procedures are in the manuals for the oil press sending unit. Again, not a show stopper. If you had no oil pressure, the set would shut off the engine, an idiot light would come on and you could stand there with your hands on your hips, thinking Shi*, what now. Look at the -12 manual, PDF page reader 190. There is the start of a test for the meter. I would start with the Oil Press Transmitter. On PDF page Reader, 159 is the test procedure for the transmitter, and it is way easier then the meter testing.

Checking the M4, DC Ammeter, is way easy. The meter is connected to the Ammeter Shunt. The Ammeter Shunt is connected to the G2, Battery Charging Alternator. To test the meter, measure (while the set is running) the two terminals on the back of M4. Got 24 Volts DC? If so, the meter is bad. If not? Go to the G2, unscrew the fuse cap on the back side, and see if it's there at all! It is often stolen. If it's there, check, WITH A MULTIMETER, to see if it's good. The glass fuse CAN and sometimes WILL melt at the base of the two caps, inside the fuse. Fuse LOOKS good through the glass, but isn't worth a plugged nickel. If the fuse is good, in all probability, your G2 is bad, or, the belts not there! With the set running, you should have more or less 24-28 volts at the slave receptacle, if G2 is operating properly.
I really, really appreciate the help. I am completely ignorant to this because I have absolutely no idea what you are telling me to do.
 

Guyfang

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OK, lets start easy. The M4, battery charging meter. Do you have a multimeter? Or can you get one? If you have one, or can get one. You need to be able to test DC voltage. lets see if we can get you that far. Once you see how easy this really is, you will be laughing your head off.
 

Guyfang

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Doug,

Sorry It took so long to get back. I am about 6 time zones out of whack with you, and my bed last night was calling.

First problem is: The Battery Charging Meter, M4 , shows no charge. Here is how to test it.

First you need to set up the meter for DC voltage. Stick the leads into the meter. They might be color coded. If so, easy. If not there should be instructions for it. Then turn it on. Turn it to DC VOLTS. To make sure it works, try it out on a battery. Keep in mind, AC voltage is what comes out of the wall sockets. Batteries are DC.

Start the set. Let it run a minute or two. Open the control panel, and let it down. Place the tips of your multimeter leads on the terminals on the back of the M4, Battery Charging Meter. The reading you want to see on your multimeter is approx 24-28 volts DC. If the multimeter reads 24-28 volts, your Battery Charging Alternator is working correctly. The meter is bad. If You do not get a 24-28 volts DC reading on your multimeter, tell me, and we will go to the next step.

Oh, a word of warning. There are some serious voltages in the control panel. You do NOT have to be afraid of them, but you SHOULD respect them. Do NOT wear a watch, or rings when fooling around with voltage. Do NOT drop tools into the control panel. Pay attention to what you are doing. Make sure your set is grounded before operating it. Safety first, last and always.
 
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gdg111

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Doug,

Sorry It took so long to get back. I am about 6 time zones out of whack with you, and my bed last night was calling.

First problem is: The Battery Charging Meter, M4 , shows no charge. Here is how to test it.

First you need to set up the meter for DC voltage. Stick the leads into the meter. They might be color coded. If so, easy. If not there should be instructions for it. Then turn it on. Turn it to DC VOLTS. To make sure it works, try it out on a battery. Keep in mind, AC voltage is what comes out of the wall sockets. Batteries are DC.

Start the set. Let it run a minute or two. Open the control panel, and let it down. Place the tips of your multimeter leads on the terminals on the back of the M4, Battery Charging Meter. The reading you want to see on your multimeter is approx 24-28 volts DC. If the multimeter reads 24-28 volts, your Battery Charging Alternator is working correctly. The meter is bad. If You do not get a 24-28 volts DC reading on your multimeter, tell me, and we will go to the next step.

Oh, a word of warning. There are some serious voltages in the control panel. You do NOT have to be afraid of them, but you SHOULD respect them. Do NOT wear a watch, or rings when fooling around with voltage. Do NOT drop tools into the control panel. Pay attention to what you are doing. Make sure your set is grounded before operating it. Safety first, last and always.
Guy: thank-you. I will try this out tomorrow. When i first set-up my generator I was fiddling with the oil gauge in the open control panel and I touched something with a wrench, it sparked and that is when my Battery Charging Unit stopped working. Not sure what I did. The first thing we will diagnose is the Battery Charging Unit, then we can figure the Oil Gauge out. This is so helpful.
 

1800 Diesel

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Guy: thank-you. I will try this out tomorrow. When i first set-up my generator I was fiddling with the oil gauge in the open control panel and I touched something with a wrench, it sparked and that is when my Battery Charging Unit stopped working. Not sure what I did. The first thing we will diagnose is the Battery Charging Unit, then we can figure the Oil Gauge out. This is so helpful.
Maybe you got lucky and the alternator fuse blew. Look for the holder on the back side of the alternator, pull the fuse and see if it's blown. (AGS 40 amp)
 

gdg111

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Maybe you got lucky and the alternator fuse blew. Look for the holder on the back side of the alternator, pull the fuse and see if it's blown. (AGS 40 amp)
thank you. I will check that too. i haven't had a chance to do anything yet. This daylight savings time makes it difficult to do things in the evening.
 
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