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MEP-005A Tech Manual

gdg111

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Doug,

Sorry It took so long to get back. I am about 6 time zones out of whack with you, and my bed last night was calling.

First problem is: The Battery Charging Meter, M4 , shows no charge. Here is how to test it.

First you need to set up the meter for DC voltage. Stick the leads into the meter. They might be color coded. If so, easy. If not there should be instructions for it. Then turn it on. Turn it to DC VOLTS. To make sure it works, try it out on a battery. Keep in mind, AC voltage is what comes out of the wall sockets. Batteries are DC.

Start the set. Let it run a minute or two. Open the control panel, and let it down. Place the tips of your multimeter leads on the terminals on the back of the M4, Battery Charging Meter. The reading you want to see on your multimeter is approx 24-28 volts DC. If the multimeter reads 24-28 volts, your Battery Charging Alternator is working correctly. The meter is bad. If You do not get a 24-28 volts DC reading on your multimeter, tell me, and we will go to the next step.

Oh, a word of warning. There are some serious voltages in the control panel. You do NOT have to be afraid of them, but you SHOULD respect them. Do NOT wear a watch, or rings when fooling around with voltage. Do NOT drop tools into the control panel. Pay attention to what you are doing. Make sure your set is grounded before operating it. Safety first, last and always.
Guy, the meter reads 24.7. When I put the probes on each post it does not read anything however, when I connect to one post and the back of the gauge it reads 24.7. Is this OK. And, have we determined that my gauge needs to be replaced? Next, item I would like to asses is the oil pressure gauge. Thank-you for helping me -
 

Guyfang

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Doug,

One of the wires to the meter is wire number E36A18. It should be ground. Make sure its tight. You can loosen the nut, move the wire around, and tighten it up again. Then try and see if it works. Then take a wire, hook it to that terminal that has wire E36A18 and the other end of the wire to ground. Ground is any bare metal on the set. Keep in mind the other wire is still hot, with 24.7 volts DC. Then see if the meter works. If it doesn't, then the meter needs to be replaced.




Test for oil pressure transmitter.


c. Testing.(1) Disconnect electrical lead to oil pressuretransmitter.(2) Connect an ohmmeter between transmitter terminaland casing.(3) Refer to paragraph 2-10 and start the engine.(4) Allow the engine to operate until normaloperating temperatrue is indicated on the temperaturegauge.(5) Observe ohmmeter. Resistance shall be asspecified in paragraph 1-6b(4).3

Resistance (ohms) at pressure (psi):15.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3030.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Check it all out, if you have questions, then shoot them here.
 
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1800 Diesel

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Is this what you're trying to sort out?

From -12 TM (Op & Maint)

c. Testing.

1. Remove wiring harness connector from low oil pressure switch.

2. Install a jumper across wiring harness connector pins A and B (figures FO-1 and FO-2).

3. Connect an ohmmeter across switch connector pins A and D. Ohmmeter shall indicate open circuit.

4. Connect ohmmeter across switch connector pins B and C. Ohmmeter shall indicate continuity.

5. Start the generator set (paragraph 2-10). Place BATTLE SHORT switch in the ON position before releasing START-RUN-STOP switch.

6. Check that ohmmeter indicates open circuit.

7. Connect ohmmeter across pins A and D. Ohmmeter should indicate continuity.

8. Stop the generator set (paragraph 2-11)and return the BATTLE SHORT switch to the OFF position.

9. If switch meets continuity requirements,install wiring harness connector.

10. If switch fails to meet continuity requirements, replace.

If you can point out which step(s) above you're having trouble with, Guy can help with more details once he's back up.

You can also remove the switch and secure it on a bench and connect regulated air pressure to it to test whether contacts are open or closed when pressure is lowered below 20 PSI. If you do this test, do not exceed 40 PSI on your air pressure into the switch, even though it can take more--this is for safety.

I've also had issues with Canon pin or sleeve connections either missing or damaged or otherwise not making good contact. If you find out the switch is functioning properly take a close look at the connector pins and sleeves and also you can to continuity checks on the wiring harness from pin-to-pin or terminal-to-terminal.
 
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gdg111

New member
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Location
Warrenton, Virginia
Is this what you're trying to sort out?

From -12 TM (Op & Maint)

c. Testing.

1. Remove wiring harness connector from low oil pressure switch.

2. Install a jumper across wiring harness connector pins A and B (figures FO-1 and FO-2).

3. Connect an ohmmeter across switch connector pins A and D. Ohmmeter shall indicate open circuit.

4. Connect ohmmeter across switch connector pins B and C. Ohmmeter shall indicate continuity.

5. Start the generator set (paragraph 2-10). Place BATTLE SHORT switch in the ON position before releasing START-RUN-STOP switch.

6. Check that ohmmeter indicates open circuit.

7. Connect ohmmeter across pins A and D. Ohmmeter should indicate continuity.

8. Stop the generator set (paragraph 2-11)and return the BATTLE SHORT switch to the OFF position.

9. If switch meets continuity requirements,install wiring harness connector.

10. If switch fails to meet continuity requirements, replace.

If you can point out which step(s) above you're having trouble with, Guy can help with more details once he's back up.

You can also remove the switch and secure it on a bench and connect regulated air pressure to it to test whether contacts are open or closed when pressure is lowered below 20 PSI. If you do this test, do not exceed 40 PSI on your air pressure into the switch, even though it can take more--this is for safety.

I've also had issues with Canon pin or sleeve connections either missing or damaged or otherwise not making good contact. If you find out the switch is functioning properly take a close look at the connector pins and sleeves and also you can to continuity checks on the wiring harness from pin-to-pin or terminal-to-terminal.
Thank-you, i appreciate the help. I dont understand where the pins are....I am sorry for being so ignorant with this
 

Guyfang

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Doug,

The pins are in the canon plug, on the LOP, (low oil pressure switch.) When you take the plug off the LOP, look at at the face of the plug. You will see the letters next to the pin holes. Use a flashlight. It's sometimes hard to see. Then you can look at the LOP, and see which pins are the ones you want. Sometimes the pin letters are on the LOP side, sometimes not. But they are always on the wire harnes plug side. No need to be sorry about what you can't possibly know, so stop worrying about it.

Also, the LOP has a plastic cover. It comes off. Push on it gently, to one side, and it pops off. It won't go far, as the wires are hooked to the switch and the back side of the plug. Very often, one of the wires breaks off. Normally on the switch side. So take a look see. If it's easyer, unscrew the LOP, so you can look at it in better light. If the wire broke off, re solder it.

Look for the broken wire first. It's easiest.
 

gdg111

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We have been having quite a cold spell here in Virginia and with the holidays I have not done anything to the genset. I hope to get back into this very soon. I hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas and wish you all a very healthy and prosperous new year.
 

1800 Diesel

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Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
We have been having quite a cold spell here in Virginia and with the holidays I have not done anything to the genset. I hope to get back into this very soon. I hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas and wish you all a very healthy and prosperous new year.
Douglas & all other SS friends,

I've been out of pocket myself and have not been able to do any MEP work for at least 3 weeks. Spending time on Pensacola Beach with family in from Camp Pendleton. Only problem---north winds blowing and 24 degrees overnight. Not good for going on the beach! Hope to get back to reality (and warmer weather) next week. Hope all had a great Christmas and New Year's and to have good things happen in 2018! Stay warm & be safe!!
 

Guyfang

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1800, The same to you partner! And enjoy the time with family. It just doesn't get any better then that.

Douglas, All the best! Take care and you get to it, when you get to it.
 

gdg111

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Thank you Guy. Would be running my 100% electric 1,500s/f house. Current temp is 15 degrees. Reason for my inquiry was last night there was a power failure. Needed to run the unit all night to stay warm.
 

Guyfang

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We, in the army, had 6 hour checks that we pulled. At the same time, we fueled up the sets. That way we would never have a gen set run out of fuel, while on line. That was at least the wish and hopes.

I think, and I do not want anyone to assume I am close to right on this, but assume, mornings, (07:00) are high draw. From morning to about 17:00, you have a lower draw, (everyone is at work/school) and then from 17:00 or 18:00, until maybe 21:00 high draw, that you should get maybe, (don't nail me down on this) 8 hours run time to a fuel tank. I would still fuel up every 6 hours, if I had the chance. 8 hours is a long stretch. I simply would not feel good going that long.

The best way to alleviate that problem is to have an Aux fuel system. A 55 gal oil drum. Check it once a day. Refuel as needed. We had a different mind set in the army. If you run out of fuel, you put on a pullover, and toss another blanket on the bed. We, in theory could have some friendly communist gentleman drop bombs on our butt. We fueled every six hours.

Even if you run all night, the load will vary. A 55 gal drum would be a good idea, if you want to sleep all night. But do not forget, our 6 hour checks were not with out reason. Your baby wants you to look in every now and then. Gives you a chance to look, listen, feel and record data. Keeping a check list, with a few items of data listed on it, can tell you if, say for instance, the temp is going up. Or oil press. going down. Or battery charging ammeter is not going down as the system should be charging it up. Or the battery charging ammeter going into the red, - region. And best of all, checking oil. Is the set using oil? Is for instance the oil level going up?!! That is always bad!! Looking for leaks.

This will sound crazy, but we used to sleep on top of the gen sets. It was warm. We were near by if something happened. You can hear the set run, hear them not work right. Hear them oscillate. You do not have to do this. But 6-8 hour checks are not to be forgotten. Anyone can do them, with a little prep time. Put on some hearing protection, get some rags. Carry a clipboard. If you need oil, have it near. Checking coolant is not recommended. If the temp starts to go up, turn off the set, let it cool and then check. Hot coolant hurts. Look at the belts. When they get loose, you can see them flap in the wind. All this leads up to some key words, Preventive Checks and Services. Better known as PMCS. Its in your -12 book. Read it. Do it. You and your gen set will be happy campers!
 
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