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MEP-016B Injection Pump Jammed

CallMeColt

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Everyone,

I am currently trying to get a MEP-016B generator running. I confirmed I am not getting fuel on the high pressure side of the injection pump due to it being jammed. I want to remove it but it was left in the "off" position so that is where it's stuck.

In the workshop TM, 5-6115-615-34, section 6-3, step 7 requires the pump linkage to be moved to the center. This can't be done.

Because of this, it doesn't line up properly with the hole in the engine block. Both the pin (this is what I am calling it in the attached picture) that goes in-between the governor fork & the cylinder (this is what I am calling it in the attached picture) that guides it in the injection pump itself hit the block. I can lift it enough to get the governor fork out of the way to avoid it getting damaged.

s-l1600.jpg
Has anyone ran into this issue? If so, how did you overcome it?

I sprayed some PB Blaster in best I could to attempt to loosen it up. Going to let it sit. My next thought is heat. Besides that, I have no idea. Getting a tool in there is not an option.

Other than this, I think the unit will work well, just sat around for a long time.

Thank you in advance!
 

Ray70

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I have seen issues with these pumps.
I recently worked on a 701 that would decrease the fuel flow when you want to increase and vice versa.
Turned out the pump was originally stuck and the owner was able to fiddle with it and free it up, but it caused the upper "Cup" to turn and that completely threw off the alignment with the plunger's diagonal slash cut which controls fuel flow.
The pumps themselves are very easy to disassemble and reassemble, although the TM calls it a non-serviceable part.
Google or search Youtube for Bosch Zexel PFR injection pump and you will find several videos.
 

CallMeColt

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I have seen issues with these pumps.
I recently worked on a 701 that would decrease the fuel flow when you want to increase and vice versa.
Turned out the pump was originally stuck and the owner was able to fiddle with it and free it up, but it caused the upper "Cup" to turn and that completely threw off the alignment with the plunger's diagonal slash cut which controls fuel flow.
The pumps themselves are very easy to disassemble and reassemble, although the TM calls it a non-serviceable part.
Google or search Youtube for Bosch Zexel PFR injection pump and you will find several videos.
Thank you! Great information & a good video.

I still need to find a way to get it removed before I can service it though. 😔

Wonder if I can disassemble it while still installed to get it free & just be extremely careful to not have the pin part slide out.....
 
Last edited:

Ray70

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No, you can't do that. Everything goes in from the bottom, not the top.
Believe me it's very simple... take it out and it's a breeze, might just need a magnifying glass to see the alignment marks on the parts.
 

CallMeColt

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No, you can't do that. Everything goes in from the bottom, not the top.
Believe me it's very simple... take it out and it's a breeze, might just need a magnifying glass to see the alignment marks on the parts.
That's the problem... I can't get it out because of the position that the parts are in. The bolts are all out & I can spin the injection pump around but no way to get it out because of the way the hole is made in the engine block.

I tried to get some ATF on it all to see if it helps loosen it up overnight but I don't have high hopes.
 

Chainbreaker

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The night before and right before you attempt to take it out you should try using a heat gun on the injection pump to help the ATF work its magic...hopefully! If not, rinse & repeat the process a few times. I've even resorted to alternate hot/cold treatment to break the bond of stuck objects. Something like this might help. Persistence sometimes pays off.
 

CallMeColt

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The night before and right before you attempt to take it out you should try using a heat gun on the injection pump to help the ATF work its magic...hopefully! If not, rinse & repeat the process a few times. I've even resorted to alternate hot/cold treatment to break the bond of stuck objects. Something like this might help. Persistence sometimes pays off.
That's my plan! I have this to work on & my M1078, so I have been doing between the two when the other one gets to annoying.
 

Ray70

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So where did you put the ATF in the top line fitting or did you take the top off and put it inside?
If you haven't already done so, you can take the top part off and get the ATF right in.
I think this is how the one I worked on originally got messed up. It was stuck but the owner got it freed up, however there is nothing holding the upper sleeve in position other than friction so I think it turned and that's what got everything out of whack, so once you get it out and apart, pay close attention to the alignment marks on all 4 of the parts.
 

CallMeColt

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So where did you put the ATF in the top line fitting or did you take the top off and put it inside?
If you haven't already done so, you can take the top part off and get the ATF right in.
I think this is how the one I worked on originally got messed up. It was stuck but the owner got it freed up, however there is nothing holding the upper sleeve in position other than friction so I think it turned and that's what got everything out of whack, so once you get it out and apart, pay close attention to the alignment marks on all 4 of the parts.
I did take the top off & put it in there. Going to let that soak in & do it again after work with some added heat as well.

Will be sure to pay attention to the timing marks, thanks for that tip!
 

CallMeColt

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Success!

158271057_423045698765694_1301365431508043635_n.jpg 157183484_210353880871915_6019092499829124884_n.jpg

After a few days of heat & ATF, I got it loose enough & used the governor fork to move it where it needed to be.

With the top cap that goes to the injector removed, I kept putting heat directly in there for 1 minuet or so, then ATF. You'd see the ATF bubble & seep in until it was basically gone.

Going to let the entire injection pump soak in ATF for 24 hours then take it apart.

Thank you everyone for the help!
 
Last edited:

jgp

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Call me colt, I’m having the same problem. I was able to get the linkage to start moving , but it’s very stiff. Tried moving to linkage to the mid way point, as per TM, but still only comes up about 3/8” than something inside hits crank case. Tried rotating the IP from one side to the other and still only comes out about 3/8” than stops Is it a mission to get the IP shaft lined up with the notched area of the hole? Is there anything on the IP that can come loose and prevent it from coming out of the hole? Any advise or pictures will be greatly appreciated.
 

CallMeColt

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Call me colt, I’m having the same problem. I was able to get the linkage to start moving , but it’s very stiff. Tried moving to linkage to the mid way point, as per TM, but still only comes up about 3/8” than something inside hits crank case. Tried rotating the IP from one side to the other and still only comes out about 3/8” than stops Is it a mission to get the IP shaft lined up with the notched area of the hole? Is there anything on the IP that can come loose and prevent it from coming out of the hole? Any advise or pictures will be greatly appreciated.
There is nothing that can come apart on the injection pump unless it really is messed up bad. less than 1% chance it is that.

Are you sure that the injection pump is in the governor fork? If it isn't, you need to finagle it back in. Best way to tell if it is still in place is if the throttle linkage will move back & forth only 1/8" or so. This means each side of the fork is hitting the little bar coming off the injection pump.

There should be no need to move it much more than a 1/4" back & forth.

It does have a little resistance coming out, but nothing you can just overcome by hand. If the pump regulator is not set in the middle, it will hit the block.

I really have no other advice except what I said above. Remove the top part that the line going to the injector goes to. Put some head directly in there & then put some ATF in there. After putting the ATF in, try to work it back & forth. Do this with it lightly bolted in place so you don't accidentally get out from the fork linkage. Be careful not to use to much heat as well.

From trying to yank mine out way to many times & not knowing what the inside of the injection pump looked like, I banged up the regulator a bit, making it harder. I put some nicks in it so it wouldn't move all the way closed. I had to remove it & use a very fine sand paper to get it all smooth again so it would work properly.

Good luck!
 

jgp

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Thanks for your reply Callmecolt. I’m between the forks for sure. I’ve tried pulling the IP out with the linkage being in every position, from the shut off solenoid being fully retracted , to it being fully extended and all points inbetween. Kinda feels like there’s some kind of collar around the IP body that’s keeping it from coming out. I’ll keep plugging away at it, but this unit may turn into a parts unit.
 

CallMeColt

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Thanks for your reply Callmecolt. I’m between the forks for sure. I’ve tried pulling the IP out with the linkage being in every position, from the shut off solenoid being fully retracted , to it being fully extended and all points inbetween. Kinda feels like there’s some kind of collar around the IP body that’s keeping it from coming out. I’ll keep plugging away at it, but this unit may turn into a parts unit.
If you're certain you're in the fork, center it as the TM says & if it's still stubborn, try prying it a bit. Maybe that unit is just tighter or my idea of yanking it out with my hand is different than yours. The key is pulling it straight out so the main body doesn't bind where it fits to the cam.
 
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