MEP-1040, what have I gotten myself into?

[Abrant23]

So,

Long story short, I threw a “pre-bid” on a 1040 over on that site where you do that sort of thing. Only issues with it was someone was nice enough to put a forklift through one mesh area and it banged around and concaved the display panel cover.
They’ve been going for numbers high as a “giraffe unmentionable’s location” lately so I didn’t think I had a prayer of winning. Well, I did. So what have I done?!

I just picked it up this morning and she seems to be completely unused aside from the cosmetic damage. All the paperwork is still wrapped in plastic and even the Cummins diagnostic CD is in its case. Of course the batteries are dead, but that’s standard.

I know there’s certain things to look out for on the older 803’s but has anyone found any specific issues with these sets? I see the replacement screen units are starting to trickle out on the ole auction site, you reckon it would be wise to pick up a spare? I’m new at this...

Anyways, I’d love to hear some opinions. Don’t hold back, feel free to pat me on the back or even tell me I’ve made a grave mistake! I can handle it.
I’m off to search the site for any other threads or clues on this set.

Thanks!!

 

[Chainbreaker]

Looks like a nice score! You only made a grave mistake if you have no use for it!

Yes, its a more sophisticated/complex unit and will work fantastic, until it doesn't. The questions for any generator ownership is...

- When is the first failure coming?
- How prepared are you to troubleshoot it?
- Do you have that part(s) on hand & are they obtainable?
- If you can't repair it, who can?

Don't ask me about spares... I succumbed to "parts hoarding" early on, until I realized its cheaper in the long run to just hoard spare generators! At least for the model gensets that meet my pwr outage requirements.

 

[Ray70]

As soon as I read the control panel area was concaved I was sure you were going to report the panel was damaged or not working, BUT it looks like you actually got a nice score.
It will be interesting to hear how you make out with it, but as long as you got it for what you consider a reasonable or below price, then there is no shame in it at all.
All I can say is read up on how it works and learn what you can incase you need to service / repair it in the future.
As CB said, I also agree that a spare machine ( or more ) is often cheaper and a better idea than a shelf full of parts, BUT that is probably not the case with a 1040 due to the current overinflated prices.
Hands on experience is the best way to learn!
Good luck, keep us up to date with your experience.

 

[Guyfang]

Perhaps Daybreak will jump in. He has at least one I think.

 

[hcso2332]

I have had several 1040s and 1030s and currently use a 1040 for home back-up. So far I have had no issues. I have a spare control panel in case any electronic issues in the future. GP just sold quite a few control panels last week. I suggest you buy one up when they pop up again for peace of mind in the future in case of electronic issues.

 

[Abrant23]

I have had several 1040s and 1030s and currently use a 1040 for home back-up. So far I have had no issues. I have a spare control panel in case any electronic issues in the future. GP just sold quite a few control panels last week. I suggest you buy one up when they pop up again for peace of mind in the future in case of electronic issues.

Some lucky soul picked up (4) controllers last week for $80. Now the starting bid on (1) controller this week is $850....I’ll be waiting till they don’t sell and are re-listed at a lower start!

 

[Abrant23]

So after digging through the forums some last night I have a few questions.
The paperwork inside the unit shows that it was drained and mothballed in 2016, but of course there’s no documentation of it being, I guess you would say, “unmothballed”. I noticed on the auction site it was a unit inspected and photographed inside the garage. Should I assume they just dumped enough fluids in it to be able to get it to run for listing purposes? That being the assumption should I drain everything and reinstall break in oil for the first 100 hours just to be safe? I know the first 100 can make or break an engine.

I’ve gotten one of the optimas resurrected from death and am currently working on the other one. I see that some of you all are running a 7200 smart maintainer on your units. Is that the best way to go? I’ve also seen units on that auction place with solar panels glued to the top of em. Is that a military installed option?



I’m sure I’ll have tons of questions in the near future. I appreciated all your help!!

almost forgot to add that I was able to put that smashed cover in the press brake at work and straightend it right out!

 

[Coug]

So after digging through the forums some last night I have a few questions.
The paperwork inside the unit shows that it was drained and mothballed in 2016, but of course there’s no documentation of it being, I guess you would say, “unmothballed”. I noticed on the auction site it was a unit inspected and photographed inside the garage. Should I assume they just dumped enough fluids in it to be able to get it to run for listing purposes? That being the assumption should I drain everything and reinstall break in oil for the first 100 hours just to be safe? I know the first 100 can make or break an engine.

I’ve gotten one of the optimas resurrected from death and am currently working on the other one. I see that some of you all are running a 7200 smart maintainer on your units. Is that the best way to go? I’ve also seen units on that auction place with solar panels glued to the top of em. Is that a military installed option?



I’m sure I’ll have tons of questions in the near future. I appreciated all your help!!

almost forgot to add that I was able to put that smashed cover in the press brake at work and straightend it right out!

You won't hurt it by putting break in oil into it, so if you have any doubts about whether it's fully broken in or not, go ahead and do it. Changing out other fluids (coolant) also won't hurt, especially since you don't actually know what type it is. Doing the change means you will know exactly what is in it, and if something happens and you're in a bind you'll be able to top it off with something you know is compatible, rather than guessing.

Running a smart charger of some type isn't a bad idea, but I would say the 7200 is overkill as a maintainer. It will bring the batteries up from dead, and it will maintain them, but you might be better off doing a maintainer designed for multiple batteries so each one gets the power it needs, as a 24V maintainer won't always charge the batteries evenly.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Running a smart charger of some type isn't a bad idea, but I would say the 7200 is overkill as a maintainer. It will bring the batteries up from dead, and it will maintain them, but you might be better off doing a maintainer designed for multiple batteries so each one gets the power it needs, as a 24V maintainer won't always charge the batteries evenly.

I 100% agree with Coug's recommendations especially recommending to use a "separate maintainer/multi-maintainer" for each battery. I have been running battery maintainers on my units and they work extremely well in keeping batteries ready to go and extending their life as well.

I went with these "BatteryMinders" (I have 6 of them) and they have performed flawlessly for over 7 years. I especially like that they adjust based on ambient temperatures and utilize a pulse type desulfator.

I would also recommend the NOCO brand as they are used by a lot of SS members here and they swear by them.