MEP-531a 1st Fire up after purchase from GOVPLANET. What to do first

[Superthermal]

Hello, I have Two MEP-531s that I just purchased from GOVPLANET. So far I have-
New-Fuel Filter
New-Air Filter
New-Fuel Lines
Verified tank is perfectly clean.
Replaced padding around the fuel tank
I have some new 15w-40 T5 Rotella that I will be using for crank case oil.

My questions are about what needs to be oiled first, before even pulling the start cord. The fuel pump? The injector? Putting some oil down in the piston chamber? Both units have 150 hours or less so I imagine they have not been run for a very long time although they look in fantastic shape for sitting around. Since they are so new (low hours) is there something else that absolutly needs checking before trying to fire it up? Would anyone recommend putting a bit of oil in the first cup of fuel, like a 50:1 two stroke mix? Then diesel? Any pointers are appriciated.

 

[DD58]

Hello, I have Two MEP-531s that I just purchased from GOVPLANET. So far I have-
New-Fuel Filter
New-Air Filter
New-Fuel Lines
Verified tank is perfectly clean.
Replaced padding around the fuel tank
I have some new 15w-40 T5 Rotella that I will be using for crank case oil.

My questions are about what needs to be oiled first, before even pulling the start cord. The fuel pump? The injector? Putting some oil down in the piston chamber? Both units have 150 hours or less so I imagine they have not been run for a very long time although they look in fantastic shape for sitting around. Since they are so new (low hours) is there something else that absolutly needs checking before trying to fire it up? Would anyone recommend putting a bit of oil in the first cup of fuel, like a 50:1 two stroke mix? Then diesel? Any pointers are appriciated.
View attachment 914873

I’d start with fluid changes. Get the old diesel out Put new oil in the engine. Download the TM from here and read through it. That will give you the best idea what to do. On my Mep831a I always add in the correct amount of diesel additive for lubricantion and for stabilizing the diesel for cold climate. Past that check over the unit for any loose or broken wires or bolts. Check fuel lines and filters. Anything that can be replaced i always do that with fresh fluids. And don’t forget to ground the set before starting.


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[FarmingSmallKubota]

Prime the fuel system. Call me Colt put out a nice Youtube video on it. good chance the meterpump/injector pump could be stuck. its 50/50. Other than that fuel, oil and let it run

 

[Guyfang]

I would make em run first, before changing fluids. If the set wont run, why start putting in new fluids before you know the engine is good? The picture shows a muffles shield missing. When its running, that sucker is hot! So keep an eye on it. Also, some more picture. Second the vote on Call me Colt's video. These things can be a PITA to properly bleed the air out of the system.

 

[Superthermal]

Prime the fuel system. Call me Colt put out a nice Youtube video on it. good chance the meterpump/injector pump could be stuck. its 50/50. Other than that fuel, oil and let it run

I did see that video last night! The one on how to prime the fuel system. Thanks for the excellent reference.
If the injector pump is stuck... I didn't see that referenced in that video, is there somewhere else to see the work around for it?

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

I did see that video last night! The one on how to prime the fuel system. Thanks for the excellent reference.
If the injector pump is stuck... I didn't see that referenced in that video, is there somewhere else to see the work around for it?

No work around. Just have to removed the fuel line, pull the two bolts holding it in and pull it out soak it and clean it to free it up. When you put it back in make sure the bar on the pump is aligned between the two slots in the fuel on/Off lever.

 

[Superthermal]

No work around. Just have to removed the fuel line, pull the two bolts holding it in and pull it out soak it and clean it to free it up. When you put it back in make sure the bar on the pump is aligned between the two slots in the fuel on/Off lever.

Great video. Good advice on all points of checking this. Thanks for the assistance. I'll post back when I have them running.

 

[Dieselmeister]

I found Spray Carburator Cleaner works great for unsticking stuck fuel pump plungers.

 

[Superthermal]

OK, Both units are fired up. 1st one was a bit harder to get to started. Once running it ran smoky for about 1-2 min and then was clean and ran strong. Saw a few sparks from the exhaust (dust catching fire from what was in the muffler... I hope, LOL. Put a 60% load on it and ran fine with Frequency and Voltage right in the green.

2nd one started first pull after bleeding up to the injector. NICE!
Started up with some smoke then turned off with the low oil switch.
Tried it twice more and same result.
Verified the cable moves freely and the shut off lever too and everything looks excellent.
Checked the manual already and just need to verify the LOP (Low Oil Pressure) switch is good or not then go from there.
Did find the main ON/OFF output power switch lever is broken off (the one just above the NATO 24volt connector). Will need a new one of those.

Manual says the LOP switch is part 8600-01, But I am not getting any hits off Google when I search for that. 5930-01-458-5607 Appears to be the NSN number


The broken switch #74, listed here as a Flywheel diode assy I think is incorrectly labeled. The M-501a lists its switch as a 2 pole circuit breaker.. Any thoughts (64 is a diode assembly, I recognize that as a diode but the switch... )

This is the switch that has been busted off 74. The cross reference guide lists this stock number 5925-01-464-2030 but I don't get any hits on a breaker that is exact. Breakers yes, the one I need, no. Will go look on the actual breaker itself to see if I can find a number that is referenced anywhere.


Thoughts?

 

[kloppk]

Circuit breaker PN's are 95-8078 or AM1S-Z211-2
The AM1S-Z211-2 are available on ebay.

Parttarget.com is a great way to look up alternate part numbers if you have the NSN or actual PN.
AM1S-Z211-2

 

[Superthermal]

Measured the LOP switch and it is open with the unit not running. So bad. Thanks to @kloppk and his amazing referencing skills I was able to find a LOP on EBAY for a reasonable price. The Broken off breaker lever on the main circuit breaker... WOW $160 bucks... Hmm I will use a screw driver to flip it up and down. All the other breakers with similar specs are going for $40ish but since this is "COOL MILITARY STUFF" I guess that makes it have more gold in it. Someone has a shovel I guess.
Thanks for the help guys getting this running.
Up next will be my 5k on the trailer to get running.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Measured the LOP switch and it is open with the unit not running. So bad. Thanks to @kloppk and his amazing referencing skills I was able to find a LOP on EBAY for a reasonable price. The Broken off breaker lever on the main circuit breaker... WOW $160 bucks... Hmm I will use a screw driver to flip it up and down. All the other breakers with similar specs are going for $40ish but since this is "COOL MILITARY STUFF" I guess that makes it have more gold in it. Someone has a shovel I guess.
Thanks for the help guys getting this running.
Up next will be my 5k on the trailer to get running.

The breaker is an unusual size, 16.7A, and includes a flyback diode for RF suppression, so probably a special run for the 531s. There are alternatives that are close, but not exact...I think that BlueSea makes some that are "close", e.g. 15A, and you would need to add your own flyback diode.

Nice to find the oil pressure switch!

All the best,

2Pbfeet