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MEP-802a “non runner”

dav5

Active member
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Location
Mono, Ontario
I have no idea what someone was trying to accomplish but this cap was still attached to the radiator looking like this. They did a number on the neck too. I straightened the neck as best I could and got a new cap but it leaks still as it can’t seal well.
My 803a had similar damage but not as severe. It was in mint condition except the rad filler tube had been twisted so the cap bound on the overflow tube. I was able to straighten it but I could never figure out how the heck it got damaged. There was absolutely no sheet metal damage.
 
76
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Location
Tallahassee FL
Well here’s a update I was hoping I wouldn’t have to do. But, it’s back to surging so tank pull it is.

Next is the blow by is bad enough that it’s pushing oil past the dipstick and filler cap enough that it wets the battery.

So starting this afternoon I’ll be pulling a lot of the sheet metal again and pulling the head and fuel tank.

things done so far

Multiple oil changes
Multiple fuel filter changes on both filters

return leaks fixed

Injection pumps pulled and checked for function and measurements for full extenting not pulled the tops though

Primary and secondary lift pump swapped to check for weak pump.

injectors pulled and the tips soaked in seafoam and brushed. But not pulled apart

marvel mystery oil / atf mix poured into cylinders and left for 48hrs to try to loosen rings that maybe causing blow by.

radiator neck replaced

In closing what is a good source for a engine gasket kit and ring set?

also should note this is a DN2W engine not a DN2M if it makes a difference

also I am open to anyone’s ideas
 
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Light in the Dark

Well-known member
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MA
Have you done a paper test to see if its actual blow by, and not just air coming out from the rotating mass inside the crankcase?

Here is an example (you can see light oil list spitting at first, but there is vacuum holding the paper in place):

 
76
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18
Location
Tallahassee FL
It’s definitely pressurized. You can feel it pushing against your finger if you place it over the dipstick hole. That and I don’t think there would be any oil left if I open my filler while running. I left it open once and it slung oil all over the door. But I can try it.

when it comes to a compression test how do you connect the test rig to the engine? I noticed that my injectors aren’t threaded like some other diesels but then you use the glow plug ports which this doesn’t have that I know of.
 
76
58
18
Location
Tallahassee FL
It’s definitely pressurized. You can feel it pushing against your finger if you place it over the dipstick hole. That and I don’t think there would be any oil left if I open my filler while running. I left it open once and it slung oil all over the door. But I can try it.

when it comes to a compression test how do you connect the test rig to the engine? I noticed that my injectors aren’t threaded like some other diesels but then you use the glow plug ports which this doesn’t have that I know of.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
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West greenwich/RI
If you have access to a lathe, what I did was make a dummy injector body that is actually a compression gage adapter.
Remove injector, install the adapter in it's place and the adapter accepts the compression gage.
I used an 0-ring set into a groove on the bottom instead of the copper injector washer, to seal against the head when you tighten down the hold down clamp.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Va
Any gasket sets (They also call them Joint Sets)
Look for Lister-Petter or Onan or Cummins
LPW2 / DN2M
The engine design has been around for many years now.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
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Burgkunstadt, Germany
The vacuum test is not done at the oil fill opening. Its done at the dip stick hole. There is a cheapo water manomitor depicted in the TM. Cheap, easy to make. Piece of wood. Clear hose of the right diameter. It was the first thing I made when I started fooling with the 802 and 803. Later, I "borrowed" an oil fill cap, drilled a hole through it and inserted the hose. Worked like a charm. I like Ray's idea. Its a tool for the pro, who sees lots of gen sets. Over kill for most folks, as they have maybe one set.
 
76
58
18
Location
Tallahassee FL
Well, decided to run as is for now and see if it’ll loosen up some. I noticed with my light running for troubleshooting and repairs it was starting to wet stack. So I’m thinking that being a 2009 with 17hrs it definitely needs to be run and broke in some / loosened up before I tear. Into it. So I’m going to run it some and see what happens. It is burning some things off or oil or both it appears.
 

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Ray70

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
West greenwich/RI
Yup, you are burning off carbon for sure. Shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour under load to clear it out. Judging by the small stain at the manifold gasket, it probably wasn't too bad. Sometimes you see black goo just pouring out of that joint! Your's looks pretty good actually.
 
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