MEP-802a Buying Guide?

[Toolslinger]

Good morning... Or Afternoon... Or, whatever it may be for you.

I did a quick search, without finding anything jumping out at me, and I'll continue to dig, but perhaps someone could point me to particular thread that's good...

I'm in the market for an MEP-802a.
While I'd love the capacity of an 803a, for the odd occasion I want to run a 3 phase machine, the reality is, this gen set is mostly going to handle backup for my house (single phase naturally). The house simply doesn't pull enough to justify a 10k unit, and from my reading, running too little load isn't good on these machines. I have to confirm, but the 802a should handle the 3 phase tools I have, if I go with a soft starter, so it would still do double duty, just more work to do so. I'm doing my inlet wiring now on the house, and it will be sized for the 10k, in case I find some odd bargin, or something chages and I need that later. (plus I have the haeavier gauge wire on hand anyway) This is a manual transfer setup, I really don't need an automatic deal as I'm simply not that far in the boonies, and I'm generally never more than 3 hours away, and get notified within 15 minutes of an outage. My UPS systems will handle 2-3 hours for the computers, and security system, and the weather in PA isn't extreme enough to cause serious issues that aren't in the forcast. On the other hand, I lived through Sandy in NJ, and it sure is nice to have the house setup for backup power... Since I heat with oil, I've got a virtually unlimited run time for an 802a due to the 1000gal tank. 800 gets me through a winter, so there's a 200 gal reserve that could plausibly run for the gennie.

So what I'm really looking for is a post that discusses what one should be looking for in buying an 802a. I've seen some pointers to 803a guides, and I'm going to go through them as kinda a general idea, but I'm sure there's info specific to the 802a that I probably need to know.
And, yes, I will be pulling the 802a manuals to read through as well as going through back posts here as well.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Light in the Dark]

Almost everything pertinent to the 803, is for the 802 as well. They are almost identical machines past cylinder count and genhead rating. The 802 is a great platform for a large group of homeowners (myself included).

Best things I can tell you:

Auctions don't tell the whole truth
Private sellers sometimes dont either (lying by omission)
Go by what you see (condition) versus what the hourmeter says

There is nothing on these sets that can't be overcome with knowledge already existing in this forum. Do you want to find something turn key ready, or are you looking for something to get your hands dirty to get to a state that you are comfortable with?

Happy hunting.

 

[DieselAddict]

All the things for the 803 apply to the 802 in regards to spares and operating methods. Many parts are common between them.

 

[Toolslinger]

There is nothing on these sets that can't be overcome with knowledge already existing in this forum. Do you want to find something turn key ready, or are you looking for something to get your hands dirty to get to a state that you are comfortable with?

Well, like virtually everyone, I want a perfect running, showroom quality machine for the price of a dirty rag...

That, not being very realistic, means I'm somewhat more accepting of compromise.

I'm not looking to have to do an overhaul, or rewind a generator head. I've got more than enough old machines that I could/should be doing that too already... Having to clean up some past owner's improvisational electrical work, or plumbing doens't bother me. Blown boards that I can just replace doesn't bother me, and while I can do component level repair, I'd really rather not. Sheet metal can be sketchy, as long as the damage hasn't transfered to the internals. I can weld up anything, so that's no issue. I do need to be able to mouse proof it eventually, if not straight out, so I'd like a good point of departure if I'm remaking panels.

As you mention, condition is what I can see, and test, so I'm not likely to buy something that doesn't run, and make power, unless we're getting down in that dirty rag range where it might just be some spare parts toward a functional machine.

 

[ZiggyO]

pm sent

 

[DieselAddict]

Well, like virtually everyone, I want a perfect running, showroom quality machine for the price of a dirty rag...

That, not being very realistic, means I'm somewhat more accepting of compromise.

I'm not looking to have to do an overhaul, or rewind a generator head. I've got more than enough old machines that I could/should be doing that too already... Having to clean up some past owner's improvisational electrical work, or plumbing doens't bother me. Blown boards that I can just replace doesn't bother me, and while I can do component level repair, I'd really rather not. Sheet metal can be sketchy, as long as the damage hasn't transfered to the internals. I can weld up anything, so that's no issue. I do need to be able to mouse proof it eventually, if not straight out, so I'd like a good point of departure if I'm remaking panels.

As you mention, condition is what I can see, and test, so I'm not likely to buy something that doesn't run, and make power, unless we're getting down in that dirty rag range where it might just be some spare parts toward a functional machine.

If you fancy a drive to NC let me know.

 

[Toolslinger]

Well, I'm back...

I had kinda planned on one of the offers folks here have made, and I may still need to revisit that, but you know how these things go...

I found an 802a on a trailer within striking distance. I'm heading there on the weekend to check it out, and potentially pull it home.
While I would much prefer to haul it home on a trailer, I don't own a deckover, and it isn't going to fit between the fenders on my equipment trailer... So, pending it checks out, I'll tow, and if not, I'd go back with a rented trailer to get it. That's of course assuming the generator checks out too. Taking a 5kw electric heater with me to run it on. Seller didn't hesitate when I asked to run it with load, so that's a more positive feeling. Seems to be a bit of a car guy based on his public profile, so I expect he knows something about engines, though no evidence he's a diesel guy...

Seller has told me they hauled it home out of PA, so that would have been a 4 hour run or so to where it sits now. Claimed it pulled very nicely, with no issues, and he used the cheapo mag lights for brakes etc. Photos that are posted look good on both the trailer, and generator, but won't know for sure until I'm there.

As I'm wading through the tech manual on this trailer (good god, 415 pages is a bit much for a trailer) I had some questions that I'm sure you folks have dealt with already...

My pintle is going to be about 6" low. That's based on the 25" height I see listed as the tow height on a tag from a m116a3. I really prefer trailers to be level, but this is a one off, and it will then just sit on my property, so I really don't want to spend money on a taller pintle adapter. Is that going to cause issues on a 3-4 hour run home? I wouldn't think it would be all that extreme, but better to ask... I imagine it might sit an inch or so lower from the weight of the 802a, but I don't want to count on suspension compression since my truck will drop a bit too. I'm pulling with a 2023 Tundra.

I noted that some trailer also have run flat tires, and some have regular in the TM. I noted a torque differrence between them, and I have to find the pressure listings again... Is there anything that I want to check/think about with the tires otherwise? Obviously cracks, and wear, but anything odd about these compared to normal pickup, or trailer tires?

TM says 50mph max... I've read posts of people pulling at 70... I'm planning to avoid the interstates as much as possible, but it would be nice to run at 65 on the bigger state highways if it feels ok... Any red flags you've run across on the highways?

I'm going through the various posts on hauling generators home... Lots of good stuff in there. Just didn't see the above in there yet...

 

[Light in the Dark]

If this heater is a plug in, you will overload the outlets in short order... you can only test that kind of load off the lugs. Absolutely no issue pulling nose down on these trailers for the kind of run you are talking about. Most of the weight is on the trailer wheels.

Depending on where in PA, it may be a crapshoot pulling without a plate and registration. Always depends on the cop who may see you. Highway speeds Ive never found to be an issue. Just check the lugs, tire pressure, and after 20 minutes or so check the hub cover by touch... should be cool. If not, you may need to pop cover and check the castle nut (Ive never had this issue).

 

[Toolslinger]

Yea, that's why I'l taking the back route, and staying away from I81 corridor... Sunday might, or might not help...

Heater is a 240v (obviously). I'm going to put an L14-30 on there in hopes that is what is currently mounted on the unit (looks about right in the photo), but I'm perfectly happy to go straight to the lugs if needed.

Good news on the pintle... I've had this hitch for decades with no actualy need... Nice to finally get to use it. (hopefully)

 

[Light in the Dark]

The chains on the trailer will be too short to go to your vehicle, you will want to bring along a few quick links or some cheater chains to make up the length. They are fine for a HMMWV, but not a civilian vehicle. Also if the trailer is aluminum, you will need to figure out how to keep magnetic tow lights in place since they wont stick.

 

[Toolslinger]

Excellent. Those are on the list already.

Don't see the crank for the landing gear in the photos, so I'll be bringing a couple options to deal with that.
Load lug wrench is in the photo, so that's good.
Air compressor
4-1/2" bolt to disable the surge brakes if needed.
lots of zip ties
heavy duty tape
various ratchet straps.
Jack, and Jack Stand (going to throw the Hi-Lift in too, 'cause why not...)
Wheel chocks
Couple big adjustable wrenches, and basic socket set
Dot 5 brake juice

I saw something in a post I can't find now about a pretty good size socket to back off brakes if needed.

Will also bring some tools and grease to work on the wheel bearings if they get warm. Need to read the TM on that, but likely pretty standard.

Unfortunatly, I don't have spares that will fit... That's going to be my biggest stress point I imagine, but if the tires look questionable, I'll go to the backup plan with a trailer.

 

[Light in the Dark]

It used to be nice pulling out of Chambersburg, there was a tire shop right across the road one could air up at .

If you have the lockout bolt, no need for brake fluid. I just pulled a trailer from Maine to MA over the weekend (with an LPW2 on it) with the brake locked out from the getgo.

Bring liquid wrench or similar, sometimes the pin you gotta pull to disengage the leg lock is a bit stubborn.

 

[Toolslinger]

That's good. Haven't read that one before.

I'm sure I'm going to overthink the process, but better that than the alternative...

Likely bring a good sized hammer, and dead blow too... Never like needing a hammer, but...

 

[Light in the Dark]

All I see missing from the list is adequate over the road snacks and music. I think you have the rest covered.

 

[fb40dash5]

I've never kept the military connector, so I just bring 12v bulbs (you can leave the 24v ones, but they're dim) and a 7-pin on about 6' of cable... I just bring use Wago connectors. Pull all the rubber connectors, snip the 3 you need, and hook up the Wagos.

If you have a friend with an older Dodge or Chevy 3/4+ ton, or spares for same, they bolt right up & you can toss 300lb of rotating 37" tire in the truck... that buys you several inches of excess height, and gets the hitch to a more reasonable level. Getting almost anything to have a hitch tall enough ends up pretty silly otherwise. My hitch height isn't low by any stretch, but with a flipped 6-hole pintle mount all the way up, it's still way low as they sit.

 

[Toolslinger]

I used to have the tires... Pretty sure my '97 Ram 2500 would have worked. Alas I sent that to a new home 6 months ago... Still have 2 like new tires for it, but no wheels to put them on at the moment. I'll have to check with the neighbor if he's back from sking before I head out... I think he might have a Chevy bucket truck that's sick, and parked as a result...

Thanks for jogging those brain cells...

I've got the mag lights, so I'm not going to play with the existing wire... Never ussed the Wagos... Must be getting old, I probably would have used Scotchloks if I needed to jump in.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yeah either the Dodges or the older Dana 60 F350s have the same pattern too from memory.

 

[fb40dash5]

Yeah either the Dodges or the older Dana 60 F350s have the same pattern too from memory.

Anything pre-'99 works, Ford went to metric wkth Super Duties in '99. I believe Dodge changed (to the same) in the teens sometime? Not positive when... believe GM is the lone holdout still using 8x6.5" & not 8x170mm.

 

[Guyfang]

Do check that the generator set hold down bolts and nuts are tight. It is embarrassing to leave the set in an intersection. An un-named person I know better than my brother, did that in 1977 at an intersection in Schweinfurt Germany. No one got hurt, so its now just an old war story.

 

[Ray70]

FYI, the bolt pattern is an 8 x 6.5" so anything Pre 1997 1 ton will fit. Ford Chevy or Dodge.
After 97 Ford changed to a metric pattern on the F/E 250/350 But most of the chevy's and Dodge 1 tons through the mid to late 2000's at least still have the 6.5" pattern.