MEP-802A - can this thing function with a 60' exhaust run?

[Smithsonite]

Ahh, I actually didn't even think to anti-seize the threads! Great idea, Tinstar.

I found a section of pipe, 7.5' long at Summit Racing for $22 - that works! Now the problem is, how the heck do I join that to black iron? Guess I could use some high temp silicone tubing found in performance diesel trucks. That would be the easiest way, I'm thinking. Another wrench in the mix is I can only get 1.5" exhaust pipe, so I'll have to figure out a way to step the iron up, or step the pipe down.

Nothing is ever simple, is it?

 

[Light in the Dark]

If you are going to use a piece of exhaust pipe, just find an exhaust shop to flare out a piece of metal to the diameter you need. Should be pretty easy if they have a flaring machine. Or they can flare out what you have, if its not too large of a jump. Either way I think you can make it work.

 

[Ray70]

If you can't get it flared, the parts store will have an array of adapters that you can use to allow you to clamp onto both the black iron and exhaust tube.
Or weld (or have welded...) a short piece of 1 1/4" threaded black iron into the tube, then use a threaded black iron union to hook the 2 together, the union will simplify things if you need to disconnect the pipe for any reason in the future.

 

[Smithsonite]

I just measured the OD of the flex pipe threads, and I think I should be able to weld that up right to the exhaust pipe without much trouble. Should be close enough.

I put a nice quick-release union on my dad's setup, but at over $60 just for that, I think I'll just sawzall the pipe if I need to move it. You can see it in the pic, about 2" above his generator.

Doubtful it'll be going anywhere ... unless I finally get the green light from the wife and we can move to a free'er, warmer state in the Union.

 

[Guyfang]

If you use this option, you will see a little rubbing of the gen set top and the pipe. If it doesn't bother you, do not worry about it. If it bothers you, cut the hole in the top cover a bit bigger. Lots of units going down range tried this, and lots of tops came back egg shaped. Since the set is going to be inside, you do not need the lip around the hole. Its there to keep water from running in to the set.

 

[Smithsonite]

Great idea. I may do that.

I had a difficult time getting that iron coupler on there, since the pipe didn't sit centered in the hole. You can see it in the picture - it's off to one side very tightly. Not sure why that is. Could be just because of where the muffler was sitting when the bolts were tightened.

 

[Guyfang]

If you find yourself one fine day, with NOTHING to do, you can, because I did it twice, before vowing to NEVER try again, loosen about a million tiny nuts and screws. Shift the entire outside "Package" over to the right side, and gain a LITTLE space. Also, the muffler and mounting gear can be cheated over a MM or two. But Its not worth it. Trim the hole.

 

[Light in the Dark]

If its close enough to weld you could always cut vertical slits into the exhaust pipe, and use a heavy duty band clamp to tighten it up and take up some of the space with contraction/distortion to make it a tight fit. More than one way to skin a cat.

 

[Smithsonite]

I had that in the back of my mind, Light! Brilliant minds think alike.

 

[2Pbfeet]

You might want to do a little something where the pipe passes through the wall if you care about your dad's structure.

 

[uniquify]

I had a difficult time getting that iron coupler on there, since the pipe didn't sit centered in the hole. You can see it in the picture - it's off to one side very tightly. Not sure why that is. Could be just because of where the muffler was sitting when the bolts were tightened.

A coupler for electrical conduit would be a little thinner than the black iron. I've used them before when adding a short pipe and tractor-style flapper when the stock square flapper was missing.

 

[Light in the Dark]

You might want to do a little something where the pipe passes through the wall if you care about your dad's structure.

Could use something as simple as a wall thimble for a pellet stove: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-PelletVent-3-in-Wall-Thimble-3PVL-WT/100679724

 

[87cr250r]

When hanging your pipe keep in mind that you're going to have to accommodate ~1" of growth over a 25 foot run assuming the pipe is well insulated and 600°F over ambient. The key is to have a fixed hanger at the engine end and the remaining hangers are floating to allow for this type of growth. Additional fixed hangers and expansion joints maybe required at bends.

See page 6 in this document.


EXHAUST SYSTEMS

https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/content/Caterpillar/CM20160713-53120-15686

 

[Smithsonite]

Wow, they've got that down to a science! Great info - I appreciate it! Never realized a system 20' long could grow that much!

It's probably not visible in the pictures, but my dad's install uses this double-walled pipe on the through-wall section. Zero danger. I can hold my hand on it (uncomfortably) after a half hour run time. I bought the same thing for my setup.

Through Wall Kits for Generator Exhaust Extensions | Genexhaust.com

Through-wall kits are available for our generator exhaust extensions that allow you to vent toxic fumes outside. Click here for information.

genexhaust.com

 

[98G]

When hanging your pipe keep in mind that you're going to have to accommodate ~1" of growth over a 25 foot run assuming the pipe is well insulated and 600°F over ambient. The key is to have a fixed hanger at the engine end and the remaining hangers are floating to allow for this type of growth. Additional fixed hangers and expansion joints maybe required at bends.

See page 6 in this document.


EXHAUST SYSTEMS

https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/content/Caterpillar/CM20160713-53120-15686

By "grow" you mean heat expansion?

 

[Smithsonite]

Yeah, I'm speaking "Massachusetts", lol. Sorry!