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MEP 802a Injection Pump no output

Tommytone

Member
56
44
18
Location
Ashland, ohio
You are right, I thought he just shared the injection pump doc.
When we took the injector out the whole Injector Stud came out vs the nut coming off. That made me nervous but it is what it is.

Does anyone know the torque spec on putting it back in? I do not see that anywhere in the TM, as I don't think your supposed to take it out. Should we use red or blue locktite on it? Any thoughts on putting it back would be great.

We plan to backup the other one when we take it out and prior to that cleaning the threads a little. I think the paint and time made it stick.
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,024
1,473
113
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Don't overthink it. Even though the injection pump is a very precise piece of equipment, as long as you don't bang it up, it is fairly simple. I use ATF. Take it apart, let is soak for a few hours or overnight. Then, use something like a toothbrush & brake cleaner. Soak again. Then, reassemble. A lot of times, you can do just the top & let ATF seep into the bottom, more challenging part of the pump to disassemble. It will be obvious what was gummed up when you take it apart. I've un-stuck a bunch. Just did one that was really bad (both pumps) for someone. It doesn't hurt to then prime the fuel system with ATF, start it or try to start it, then let it sit again for a while. That way the AFT has worked it's way into everything and will break down the crap. Then run again & get diesel in. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9S0vZKkxNls
 

Tommytone

Member
56
44
18
Location
Ashland, ohio
Don't overthink it. Even though the injection pump is a very precise piece of equipment, as long as you don't bang it up, it is fairly simple. I use ATF. Take it apart, let is soak for a few hours or overnight. Then, use something like a toothbrush & brake cleaner. Soak again. Then, reassemble. A lot of times, you can do just the top & let ATF seep into the bottom, more challenging part of the pump to disassemble. It will be obvious what was gummed up when you take it apart. I've un-stuck a bunch. Just did one that was really bad (both pumps) for someone. It doesn't hurt to then prime the fuel system with ATF, start it or try to start it, then let it sit again for a while. That way the AFT has worked it's way into everything and will break down the crap. Then run again & get diesel in. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9S0vZKkxNls
I appreciate the response. We got the one injector cleaned up and pulled the second one and it moved freely. We went ahead and soaked it overnight just to get the varnish deposits off of it and put it all back together last night. It fired right up so now we are getting ready to load bank it and get it set up.

I wish I had thought of the ATF idea. I have done that with Cummins 12v in the past and when I read this laughed at myself for not thinking of that.

I can overthink things but at the same time wise counsel, like the ATF, is always appreciated. The engines on these generators are so simple and I love that about them.

FYI I did use your kit to replace the well nut upgrades. We did run into an issue as the lower well nut would squirt the O ring out and leak no matter what we did. We replaced the inner o ring with a steel washer/seal like is pictured in your FMTV o ring kit and that worked fine. Any issues you see with that? The farm tractor dealer I got the seal from said the had used it on bigger farm tractors that had a similar issue with fuel tank bungs leaking.

Thank you to everyone for their help so far.
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,024
1,473
113
Location
Wilson County, Texas
I appreciate the response. We got the one injector cleaned up and pulled the second one and it moved freely. We went ahead and soaked it overnight just to get the varnish deposits off of it and put it all back together last night. It fired right up so now we are getting ready to load bank it and get it set up.

I wish I had thought of the ATF idea. I have done that with Cummins 12v in the past and when I read this laughed at myself for not thinking of that.

I can overthink things but at the same time wise counsel, like the ATF, is always appreciated. The engines on these generators are so simple and I love that about them.

FYI I did use your kit to replace the well nut upgrades. We did run into an issue as the lower well nut would squirt the O ring out and leak no matter what we did. We replaced the inner o ring with a steel washer/seal like is pictured in your FMTV o ring kit and that worked fine. Any issues you see with that? The farm tractor dealer I got the seal from said the had used it on bigger farm tractors that had a similar issue with fuel tank bungs leaking.

Thank you to everyone for their help so far.
ATF is my go-to! Glad you got going.

The well nut doesn't need to be to tight. That is a great idea with the seal washer like the CTIS banko bolt. I may actually add these to the kit to this if you are saying it works better in some applications. I have installed a lot of these without issue but I definitely understand how that could happen.
 
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