Bmxenbrett
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All 3 of those plugs look to be fine. Sprayed some contact cleaner in them also.
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The canon plugs have been looked at. And that would have been my first guess anyway. The main voltage comes up to the control panel from the starter + side. Trace the voltage back from there.All 3 of those plugs look to be fine. Sprayed some contact cleaner in them also.
INCLOSURE MATERIAL | GLASS | |
OVERALL LENGTH | 0 3/8 INCHES MAXIMUM | |
TERMINAL LENGTH | 1 1/8 INCHES MINIMUM | |
OVERALL DIAMETER | 0 21/100 INCHES MAXIMUM | |
MOUNTING METHOD | TERMINAL | |
FEATURES PROVIDED | HERMETICALLY SEALED CASE | |
SEMICONDUCTOR MATERIAL | SILICON | |
VOLTAGE RATING IN VOLTS PER CHARACTERISTIC | 600 MAXIMUM REPETITIVE PEAK REVERSE VOLTAGE AND 600 MAXIMUM WORKING PEAK REVERSE VOLTAGE AND 800 MAXIMUM NONREPETITIVE PEAK REVERSE VOLTAGE, MAXIMUM PEAK TOTAL VALUE | |
CURRENT RATING PER CHARACTERISTIC | 3 AMPERES FORWARD CURRENT, AVERAGE MAXIMUM | |
MAXIMUM OPERATING TEMP PER MEASUREMENT POINT | 170 DEG CELSIUS CASE | |
TERMINAL TYPE AND QUANTITY | 2 UNINSULATED WIRE LEAD |
I am having the same issue this gentleman was, I checked both batteries, both are correct voltage. I have proper voltage in all spots you mentioned above. My panel lights will come on very dim but when you move selector switch to prime and run they will go out. The unit will crank just fine with the dead crank.OK NBA! Now you are ready to start. You have the CLEAN schematics, (thank you DieselAddict!!) and with the troubleshooting you can get started. If the engine turns over with the S-10, dead crank, batteries are not the problem. The Dead crank's function is not to start, only to turn over the engine, WITHOUT starting it. Plenty of good reasons for that, like bleeding the fuel system to the injectors, or adjusting the Mag Pickup.
So if it cranks with the S-10, you have learned a lot. Now, no input to the controls. Look at your manuals and schematic. Open the control panel. Find the MT-4, (battery ammeter shunt) to the right, on the bottom of the control panel. Take your multimeter, (hope you have one) and measure DC voltage. From the frame to BOTH sides of the shunt. You should get approx 24 volts, or what ever your batteries have in them. If you have voltage on one side, and not the other, there is the problem. The shunt doesn't often go bad, but it can. If you have DC voltage on both sides of the MT-4, then look to the left. Find CB-1. It should be pushed in. Pop it out push it in. Then take your handy dandy voltmeter, and measure from the frame to both side of the CB-1. Got power on both sides? Good. If not there is your problem. CB-1.
If you had NO DC voltage at the MT-4, reach up with your hand, on the right side of the control panel, through the small door on the bottom. There are some canon plugs up there. Unscrew them, and screw them back in. Measure again at MT-4. Sometimes these canon plugs are not connected, loose or the pins are burnt off. Pull the plugs down, look into them to see if the pins are there, not burnt off or corroded. These are quick disconnect plugs. They should easily twist on and off. If they feel funny, they could be not making contact.
If you have power to MT-4 and CB-1, look at the middle of the control panel door at S-17, the emergency off switch. Same deal. You should have 24 volts in, and 24 volts out.
I will leave it there. You let us know what you find.
From your description I'd suggest the following...I am having the same issue this gentleman was, I checked both batteries, both are correct voltage. I have proper voltage in all spots you mentioned above. My panel lights will come on very dim but when you move selector switch to prime and run they will go out. The unit will crank just fine with the dead crank.
Ok also here is a better discriptionFrom your description I'd suggest the following...
1) Put the Dead Crank Switch (S10) in NORMAL, Emergency Off Switch (S17) Pulled OUT and Circuit Breaker CB1 pushed in
2) Attach your hand held meters ground lead to chassis ground.
3) Put the Master Switch (S1) to the Prime/Run position.
4) Measure the DC voltage at each the two terminals on S17. It should be about 24 volts DC.
5) Measure the DC voltage at each the two terminals on CB1. It should be about 24 volts DC.
6) Measure the DC voltage at terminals 2,4,6 & 8 of S1. It should be about 24 volts DC.
Post up their voltage reading for above and we'll go from there.
readings areFrom your description I'd suggest the following...
1) Put the Dead Crank Switch (S10) in NORMAL, Emergency Off Switch (S17) Pulled OUT and Circuit Breaker CB1 pushed in
2) Attach your hand held meters ground lead to chassis ground.
3) Put the Master Switch (S1) to the Prime/Run position.
4) Measure the DC voltage at each the two terminals on S17. It should be about 24 volts DC.
5) Measure the DC voltage at each the two terminals on CB1. It should be about 24 volts DC.
6) Measure the DC voltage at terminals 2,4,6 & 8 of S1. It should be about 24 volts DC.
Post up their voltage reading for above and we'll go from there.
I think we are on the right track, after removing P7 i inspected and found no corrosion, after reinstalling the unit fired up, although it only ran for about three minutes and shut back down. No indicator lights came on at all. The fuel pump did stay working, we repeated this about three times with the same results. I did double check the alternator positive terminal once more while it was running and had 28v. Here is a picture of the terminal.Looks like you're not getting adequate 24 volts from S10 to the front panel area due to a poor connection.
It's likely an issue with the connection of P7 to J7. The 24 volts from S10 flows thru pins P7-14 and J7-14 on its way to S17.
I'd suggest you disconnect P7 from J7 and examine the pins for corrosion.
To remove P7 from J7 you'll need to turn the locking collar on P7 CCW. Doing so will unlock P7 from J7 and draw P7 from J7 as you turn the collar.
With S10 in the NORMAL position this is the path from S10 to the front panel.
S10-3 ------- P7-14------J7-14 ------ S17-1
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