MEP 802A No start. very little fuel through pump.

[Guyfang]

First answer Rays question. Then we talk about vibration.

 

[DACollins]

We're dying to know what the problem ended up being??
Did you have a lift pump issue or something else?

We're dying to know what the problem ended up being??
Did you have a lift pump issue or something else?

It had a fairly stuck plunger on the #2. Cleaning and polishing the plungers and bores freed up the sticky parts. I used some fine metal polish and paper so as not to scratch the surfaces or be too aggressive.
Pulling the pumps both out was an oopsy, but getting them back in was......challenging.
Ray70, your photos of yours lead me to see an issue I had with plunger orientation. Thank You!

 

[Guyfang]

Most of the guys in the forum use a thermal gun, to read the heat output of the cylinders. If one is hotter then the other, you can loosen the IP for that injector, and turn the IP left or right to adjust the output of fuel to the hot cylinder. If one jug is hotter then the other, its working harder. So its best to get them about the same temp.

Look at the shock isolaters. See if they are cracked, or loose. Look at the exploded pictures of the shock mounts, and then look at the mounts. Make sure the washers are there, and in the right order. Make sure the nuts are tight. IF you can see the part numbers on the isolaters, copy them down, and then look them up in the -24 TM. Some people over the years installed 802 isolaters in 803's, and vice versa.

Unless the set walks across the floor, I would not go any farther then that. Sometime the main gen is secured to the engine, not quite right. Its a bit out of round. So it can vibrate. But unless you wish to gain experience in the complete disassembly of the gen set, you do not want to go there.

 

[DACollins]

We're dying to know what the problem ended up being??
Did you have a lift pump issue or something else?

The #2 pump was stuck, although not with any visible varnish or sludge. It also was harder to turn the valve in the pump. I cleaned and polished them, (metal polish and a piece of paper) as to not scratch or gouge. The biggest and most difficult thing was getting the pumps back in the rack.

I'm very pleased with the outcome and appreciative of all the help!

 

[DACollins]

the

Most of the guys in the forum use a thermal gun, to read the heat output of the cylinders. If one is hotter then the other, you can loosen the IP for that injector, and turn the IP left or right to adjust the output of fuel to the hot cylinder. If one jug is hotter then the other, its working harder. So its best to get them about the same temp.

Look at the shock isolaters. See if they are cracked, or loose. Look at the exploded pictures of the shock mounts, and then look at the mounts. Make sure the washers are there, and in the right order. Make sure the nuts are tight. IF you can see the part numbers on the isolaters, copy them down, and then look them up in the -24 TM. Some people over the years installed 802 isolaters in 803's, and vice versa.

Unless the set walks across the floor, I would not go any farther then that. Sometime the main gen is secured to the engine, not quite right. Its a bit out of round. So it can vibrate. But unless you wish to gain experience in the complete disassembly of the gen set, you do not want to go there.

The heatgun is an excellent suggestion. I was careful not to change or move the shims and keep track of the injectors locations, so could the timing be an issue? For sure I'll check the heat first. Thanks!

 

[Guyfang]

I would not call timing an issue. But adjusting the IP's sure don't hurt.

 

[Ray70]

I think what Guy is referring to is that not only do the shims set your pump timing, but the rotational setting of the pump is important for balanced fuel delivery and proper fuel shut-off. This can be adjusted using the thermal gun.
If you have a machine that smokes after start up ( for a minute or less ) under no load, the pumps may need a little rotational adjustment if you want to clear it up.
A typical "good" starting point is to have all the fuel inlet hoses just about 1/16" away from touching the push rod tube.
If the machine is slow to or won't totally shut down you may be too far clockwise on the pumps ( too far away from the push rod tubes )

 

[Guyfang]

Correct.